Saw Cleaning / Beautification Questions

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malk315

Running Saws for Therapy
Joined
Dec 12, 2011
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Location
Lancaster, Massachusetts
Ok ok -- so beautification may be a bit much, but how else can these saws become shelf queens?
I didn't remember much cleaning info in the FAQ threads but excuse me if these have been asked before:

Wanted to clean some pine goo from the 372XP and put a new air filter in since I'm too lazy to clean air filter.

1. Under filter cover everything all covered with fine dust that has stuck to entire carb, lines, etc.... would love to spray a cleaner / degreaser but worried it would run everywhere below? Compressed air might force the dirt into crevices and dirt might not "escape" that area. Ideas? Worst thing is removing air filter and stuff could drop into crab throat when removing and also when installing new filter. Really want to clean this area quickly and safely.

2. Under clutch cover -- got all the goo out pretty nice with scrench and wipe w/ rag but crud wants to get into where brake band goes around clutch housing. Compressed air a good idea here? Always concerned about crud where oiler injects oil into bar (cavity). Compressed air there ok? Should I run for a minute w/o clutch cover on to let it spew some oil to clean oiler cavity out (pump out oil to flush that area) and then wipe? Other ideas?

3. Beautification -- The rear handle and various other areas of orange plastic have ground in pine pitch I don't want to scrape to wreck orange plastic. Best cleaner to "cut" through this nastiness to use indoors was thinking about citrus based "goo gone" or if outside use a little gas on a rag... if I spill a bit of gas on orange plastic when filling tank it doesn't seem to discolor the orange which would be the concern to clean the orange plastic parts of the saw -- want to be able to do it indoors when on the bench at working height.

Looking for as many tips as you guys might have for cleaning the saw w/o getting cleaner where it shouldn't be etc. I don't want de-greaser for instance to find it's way on to electrical parts like the coil and eat away at anything over time especially areas I can't wipe clean after spraying w/ cleaner or blowing w/ compressed air after spraying to coat things and getting cleaner + dirty crud everywhere...

Thanks!
 
For cleaning around the carb and such, I use a small tip on my shop-vac and hold it an inch or 2 away as I scrape the crud off with a screwdriver/toothbrush. The shop-vac pulls all the loose debris away so you don't have to worry about it going places it shouldn't. For any removable parts (clutch cover, starter, top covers), I put them in a 5 gallon bucket and cover with a 5ish:1 mix of water/mean green (or your favorite concentrated degreaser). Let it soak overnight and then pull out and wipe off.
 
I blow my saws off really good with compressed air then spray and wipe with purple power. If you do that before you put them away they will look good for years.
 
A can of ether works good on the clutch cover and bar mount area getting bar oil and saw dust off. I've yet to have it cause a problem on any plastics or a good paint job. It will strip krylon paint jobs though.
 
Is it ok to idle the saw w/ no clutch cover to get the oiler to spew out some oil to make sure the "channel" where the oil injects into the bar is clean and not plugging the hole in there where the oil comes into that channel the bar sits on?
One time the hole in the bar got plugged and overheated a bar on me from lack of lubrication -- probably from debris in the bar groove...

My fear is wiping out that area (the little "channel") could push some grime into the hole back towards oil pump ... Install a bar and crud could get pushed out and into hole on the bar and clog then overheat problem again... want to make sure it's ok to run w/o clutch cover and bar -- the oil should just push out, wipe, and all set right? Or will lack of "back pressure" on oil pump by not having a bar installed be a problem for oil pump?

I'm probably worrying about nothing, but wanted to find out.
 
I use an electric pressure washer when cleaning for tear downs.

Hose them off too, then start them and let them idle to dry off....

The Quake usually gets blown off with the air compressor.

Never had a problem so far, course have to be careful with all methods to not get dirt where you don't want it....




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I'm the brake clean guy. It flat out cleans the crud better than anything I've tried. Specifically CRC Brakleen. (Short of disassembling and going to the solvent tank or dishwasher.)


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Purple power and hot water from my pressure washer. I have an adjustable handle to regulate the pressure. I turn the pressure down and when that 200+ degree water hits the saw everything that's nasty melts right off it. Blow them off with compressed air and fire them up to make sure no water got inside. WD40 or some tire gel will really make the saw look new again.
 
Is it ok to idle the saw w/ no clutch cover to get the oiler to spew out some oil to make sure the "channel" where the oil injects into the bar is clean and not plugging the hole in there where the oil comes into that channel the bar sits on?
One time the hole in the bar got plugged and overheated a bar on me from lack of lubrication -- probably from debris in the bar groove...

My fear is wiping out that area (the little "channel") could push some grime into the hole back towards oil pump ... Install a bar and crud could get pushed out and into hole on the bar and clog then overheat problem again... want to make sure it's ok to run w/o clutch cover and bar -- the oil should just push out, wipe, and all set right? Or will lack of "back pressure" on oil pump by not having a bar installed be a problem for oil pump?

I'm probably worrying about nothing, but wanted to find out.
Probably better to spin the clutch rim (don't roll the engine over) by hand to force oil out. At least that works for me.
 
I keep dirt out of the fins, keep the air filter clean, and make sure the clutch/brake are clean enough to work properly. Most importantly I keep the fuel mix "clean." It has honestly never crossed my mind to clean the plastic
 
Carb/brake (my understanding is that they are the same chemical save the oil in the carb cleaner) cleaner will also clean the paint right off...personal experience.

Agreed. If a painted surface needs a just mild wipedown, I like using WD-40. It shines parts too, and leaves a nice shiny finish layer.
 
For me I have alwayse wanted to get a old used dish washer. I have heard they work really good.
 
I have an electric pressure washer,,,, I have done bunches of saws with it,, just have to be careful and close off the intake and exhaust port,,, then i just blow dry them,,,, after each use I just use compressed air to blow everything off
 
Carb/brake (my understanding is that they are the same chemical save the oil in the carb cleaner) cleaner will also clean the paint right off...personal experience.
I have found some brakeclean will soften and melt plastic,just last week had a Heavy Equipment mechanic helping me on my 950 loader.It had injection issues.He cleaned the injection pump with brakeclean befor removing a cover.There was a preasur gauge with a plastic face,it is now cloudy white instead of clear.
I also read a testimonial from a guy who had cleaned a piece of metal prior to welding with brakeclean.From what i remember the fumes from the brakeclean burning off as he was welding put him in the hospital.He felt funny and woke up in the hospital,put him down for a couple of months.I don't remember all the details,but it was enough so i don't preclean anything i weld with it anymore.
Thomas
 

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