Saw dies unless it stays primed

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bama

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First, I want to say that I am trying to fix this saw for an old farmer in wayyyyyy Northwest MN. He is kind of a different bird, I guess. The owner of the hardware store gave this guy my name and said I might be able to fix it.
I KNOW it is a throwaway saw, but the guy doesn't have much $$, so I am just trying to help him out. The saw is a Poulan 2150.

Well, here is the story. The guy floods the saw, so he pulls the plug and decides to use a torch to dry up the gas. No, he wasn't hurt, but the saw, being 90% plastic, shows some burn damage. He replaced the fuel lines and primer and I had a new diaphram and needle for the carb.

He will need a few minor plastic pieces as they partially melted in the fire(ie. trigger and kill switch. Considering how he dealt with the flooding, this is probably the best type of saw for him.

It starts after choke and prime, but acts like it runs out of fuel. If I keep priming, it will stay running. It acts like it is not drawing up the fuel, so I checked the filter. It was replaced and I can easly blow through the line backwards. I am not used to any saw with a primer, so is there anything I should be looking for in particular? P/C are good. No scoring. Good spark.

I was going to post pics, but it isn't as bad as I thought when he mentioned it over the phone. The inlet screen was plugged on the carb, but I cleaned it out when I rebuilt the carb.

Any help you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated. I want it stated for the record that I would NEVER buy one of these saws to cut wood.
 
Make sure the intake manifold bolts are tight, they're notorious for getting loose on those saws
 
First, I want to say that I am trying to fix this saw for an old farmer in wayyyyyy Northwest MN. He is kind of a different bird, I guess. The owner of the hardware store gave this guy my name and said I might be able to fix it.
I KNOW it is a throwaway saw, but the guy doesn't have much $$, so I am just trying to help him out. The saw is a Poulan 2150.

Well, here is the story. The guy floods the saw, so he pulls the plug and decides to use a torch to dry up the gas. No, he wasn't hurt, but the saw, being 90% plastic, shows some burn damage. He replaced the fuel lines and primer and I had a new diaphram and needle for the carb.

He will need a few minor plastic pieces as they partially melted in the fire(ie. trigger and kill switch. Considering how he dealt with the flooding, this is probably the best type of saw for him.

It starts after choke and prime, but acts like it runs out of fuel. If I keep priming, it will stay running. It acts like it is not drawing up the fuel, so I checked the filter. It was replaced and I can easly blow through the line backwards. I am not used to any saw with a primer, so is there anything I should be looking for in particular? P/C are good. No scoring. Good spark.

I was going to post pics, but it isn't as bad as I thought when he mentioned it over the phone. The inlet screen was plugged on the carb, but I cleaned it out when I rebuilt the carb.

Any help you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated. I want it stated for the record that I would NEVER buy one of these saws to cut wood.

A torch hummm, I can't believe he's lived long enough to become an OLD farmer.
 
It sounds like you don't have the impulse to pump fuel. Maybe this thread will help. http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=77819

+1. That's how a saw acts when I forget to hook up the impulse after rebuilding the fuel system.

A torch hummm, I can't believe he's lived long enough to become an OLD farmer.

Actually that's exactly the kind of thing an old farmer would do around here. There's one down the road that has an old Homie Xl-925. Whenever he loses a part for it, he just whittles a new one out of wood or whatever's handy. He's made his own starter handle, fuel and oil caps, air filter cover, etc.
 
+1. That's how a saw acts when I forget to hook up the impulse after rebuilding the fuel system.



Actually that's exactly the kind of thing an old farmer would do around here. There's one down the road that has an old Homie Xl-925. Whenever he loses a part for it, he just whittles a new one out of wood or whatever's handy. He's made his own starter handle, fuel and oil caps, air filter cover, etc.
Hell I have been known to whittle out a starter handle while in the woods,or a gas cap to get me going again, but I learned while young that gas and an open flame will singe your eye brows.:)
 
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"He replaced the fuel lines and primer" double check that the lines are hooked to the right fittings.
I think that I have 4 of those saws in various colors, 1 runs. The other 3 all
have bad seals, they will run if you continue to play with the choke or primer.
If you are totally sure that the lines and carb are ok, do a pressure/vacuum
test. Or eliminate everything but the seals, and save your self the trouble.
I also have had the intake manifold bolts loosen.
How did the saw run before the fire? Where were the mixture screws set before the carb was dissembled? If the mixture screws were backed
out more than 1 1/4, then someone may have been compensating for an air leak somewhere...seals, intake,ect.
My f-i-l saw ran good for a while with the mix screws set at 2 1/2 out.
Then one day would not start, same symptoms, turned out to be a bad pto
side seal. New seal, screws set at 1 1/8 runs great.
 
If and when you get it running, let me know what plastic parts you need.
I have a dissambled Craftsman in a bin that I have robbed parts from.
Let me know what you need and there yours.
CSW

Thanks! I know I need the shutoff rod that kill wire mounts to. Also, the trigger that connects to the carb linkage is melted so the linkage won't stay in place.


Thanks, everybody. I will get on it in the morning and let you know what I find.
 
I have one of those taht the old lady uses, alway's ran very sluggish sorry to get off topic but i opened up the exhaust and welded up the rear exhaust exit and put a half inch tube outa the front and what a difference, sound's a little better and run's 300% better
 
chainsawwhisperer;1257144 My f-i-l saw ran good for a while with the mix screws set at 2 1/2 out. Then one day would not start said:
His saw is a Red Max 455 GV, seals was replaceable from the outside.
The poulan saw requires complete crankcase dissassembly to replace the seal/bearing unit.
I'm sure that most of you already knew that, I was just clarifying my post.
CSW
 
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His saw is a Red Max 455 GV, seals was replaceable from the outside.
The poulan saw requires complete crankcase dissassembly to replace the seal/bearing unit.
I'm sure that most of you already knew that, I was just clarifying my post.
CSW

Didn't know that since I don't normally do anything with the throwaways.
I sure hope that isn't the case.
 
Can't you just give the old codger one of your saws, and end this foolhearty quest.:greenchainsaw:

Just kidding, It's nice of you to fix it for him. There isn't a shop around
that would do that. Reped ya for being kind hearted.

I was temped, but I don't have anything that small. I would hate to see him get hurt with a bigger saw. Plus.......I haven't FIXED it yet.:cheers:
 
Bama, I bet the fuel line connections are not correct. My recollection is the fuel bulb is meant to draw fuel through the carb, so: line from tank/filter goes to carb connection closet to manifold, line from carb connection closest to air filter side goes to pump, other side of pump connects to overflow that is jammed into a hole back to the tank. Oh yeah, the pump is directional, it is possible to have it in backwards, test to make sure it is shooting fuel back into tank.

I tried to search for the thread where Fish helped me and another 2150 owner with fuel line routing, but the 2150 is such a popular saw I got a ton of hits when I used search and did not have time to find the right one.
 
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Bama, I bet the fuel line connections are not correct. My recollection is the fuel bulb is meant to draw fuel through the carb, so: line from tank/filter goes to carb connection closet to manifold, line from carb connection closest to air filter side goes to pump, other side of pump connects to overflow that is jammed into a hole back to the tank. Oh yeah, the pump is directional, it is possible to have it in backwards, test to make sure it is shooting fuel back into tank.

I tried to search for the thread where Fish helped me and another 2150 owner with fuel line routing, but the 2150 is such a popular saw I got a ton of hits when I used search and did not have time to find the right one.

Bama, I found the link I was looking for, maybe more descriptive than I was above: http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?p=1149962
 
Bama, I bet the fuel line connections are not correct. My recollection is the fuel bulb is meant to draw fuel through the carb, so: line from tank/filter goes to carb connection closet to manifold, line from carb connection closest to air filter side goes to pump, other side of pump connects to overflow that is jammed into a hole back to the tank. Oh yeah, the pump is directional, it is possible to have it in backwards, test to make sure it is shooting fuel back into tank.

I tried to search for the thread where Fish helped me and another 2150 owner with fuel line routing, but the 2150 is such a popular saw I got a ton of hits when I used search and did not have time to find the right one.

Thanks. I know the lines are not correct after reading your linked post. That will definitely save me some time. I rep'd ya for that one.
 
almost makes me cry reading what happened to the guy hope he is ok 2150 poulan i bet i know why it wont run for him check the intake on the cylinder side make sure it is not loose
should be two bolts going into the cylinder if they are loose that is why it wont start and stay running


as for the plastic choke button if you need one let me know i have tons of parts here and since this guy is a senior citizen i will be glad to send him a free choke rod for that 2150 just to help him out


calvin
 

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