I would consider it the nature of the beast. For me, big saws are just harder to pull over. While you can work with the timing by modifying things, they were built with the timing in a fixed position for a reason. You shouldn't have to mess with it unless you're looking for more or less power. Sounds like you need to adjust your starting technique. Try easing it past TDC slowly, then let rope retract again. Then pull like there's no tomorrow. If you give that rope enough speed, you won't have a problem.
Also, try wearing gloves.
Pulling the f/w to look see is fine BUT you need to re install it in max retard position by using a piston stop and turn the f/w clockwise against the key while you tighten the nut.
Are the starter pawls free? No burrs or anything that could be causing them to bind and hang up in the flywheel?
Two things to see here: 'Note to self' and a cushioned 'D' handle.
View attachment 325663
Poulan Pro 655BP and he will rip you a new one.
I tried making the starting attempt with the piston just past TDC based on advice from ELECT6845 & it made no difference. I'm far from being too good to take advice, but the biggest reason I wanted to get feedback via this thread is because I'm using the same starting technique I use for my other two 090's as well as my two 070's. Never once have I encountered this with any of the other four 1106 series saws. I've also had the opportunity to run another 090AV nearly identical to this one and it had no issue.
Are those saws electronic?
Nope.
I for one get lazy... if theres fire, good enough... had a skil 1690 [139cc], always pullin back & breakin ropes... a few min spent checkin point gap might have cured thatA wide points gap advances the timing! And that could very easily be where the problem is.
Y'all are just a bunch of girlie men
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