Saw fires & yanks starter handle out of my hand. Why?

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Pulling the f/w to look see is fine BUT you need to re install it in max retard position by using a piston stop and turn the f/w clockwise against the key while you tighten the nut.
 
I would consider it the nature of the beast. For me, big saws are just harder to pull over. While you can work with the timing by modifying things, they were built with the timing in a fixed position for a reason. You shouldn't have to mess with it unless you're looking for more or less power. Sounds like you need to adjust your starting technique. Try easing it past TDC slowly, then let rope retract again. Then pull like there's no tomorrow. If you give that rope enough speed, you won't have a problem.

I tried making the starting attempt with the piston just past TDC based on advice from ELECT6845 & it made no difference. I'm far from being too good to take advice, but the biggest reason I wanted to get feedback via this thread is because I'm using the same starting technique I use for my other two 090's as well as my two 070's. Never once have I encountered this with any of the other four 1106 series saws. I've also had the opportunity to run another 090AV nearly identical to this one and it had no issue.
 
Dont get me started on the bruised calf muscles from the big bore 2 stroke bikes.:laugh: Man the old cz400's husky 430's and honda cr500's akways kicked back at the wrong time.with the cr's it was TDC or you was hurtin.
 
Pulling the f/w to look see is fine BUT you need to re install it in max retard position by using a piston stop and turn the f/w clockwise against the key while you tighten the nut.

That's an interesting point. It never really occurred to me that there would be enough play to make a difference, but I suppose every thousandth of an inch counts on a subject like this. I'll give that a try tomorrow.
 
Are the starter pawls free? No burrs or anything that could be causing them to bind and hang up in the flywheel?
 
Are the starter pawls free? No burrs or anything that could be causing them to bind and hang up in the flywheel?

It has the friction shoe type starter, no traditional pawls. I looked everything over when I pulled the starter cover to access the flywheel and all looked well and seemed to move freely. Good thought though; I'll look again more closely tomorrow.
 
I tried making the starting attempt with the piston just past TDC based on advice from ELECT6845 & it made no difference. I'm far from being too good to take advice, but the biggest reason I wanted to get feedback via this thread is because I'm using the same starting technique I use for my other two 090's as well as my two 070's. Never once have I encountered this with any of the other four 1106 series saws. I've also had the opportunity to run another 090AV nearly identical to this one and it had no issue.

Are those saws electronic?
 
Don't laugh but the first little Shindaiwa 500 I had would fight back on occasion to the point of breaking several starter ropes.
I'm not much of a saw mechanic so I never got into the why. I just lived with it, wore gloves, put on as long of a starter rope it would handle along with a softer handle and tried not to short stroke it when it came time to yank.
I've probably run a dozen of these little saws over the years and found some to be more prone than others, but none as bad as the first one.
 

I have noticed before that poor breaker point condition and incorrect gap will cause the symptoms you describe. Continuing to operate it in this condition may lead to detonation damage of the pee and sea. The saw is trying to tell you it's not happy. Listen to it.
 

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