Saw running while climbing

[MISteve]

Just getting started with climbing. Basic tree removals at this time. Is it o.k. to leave the saw on, with brake on, while moving in the tree? Or should you restart it after you move? I have been leaving it on, hanging on a 3 foot lanyard.

 

[Tree Pig]

Just getting started with climbing. Basic tree removals at this time. Is it o.k. to leave the saw on, with brake on, while moving in the tree? Or should you restart it after you move? I have been leaving it on, hanging on a 3 foot lanyard.

NO F___ING WAY. Shut it off as soon as your done with your cut... Restart when you repositioned and in a safe stable location to run a saw.

 

[MISteve]

Thanks for the feedback. Off it will be. Since I will not need the longer strap to keep the saw away from my leg, do you prefer a shorter strap? How do you carry your saw?

 

[Tree Pig]

Thanks for the feedback. Off it will be. Since I will not need the longer strap to keep the saw away from my leg, do you prefer a shorter strap? How do you carry your saw?

I use the bungee strap

 

[VA-Sawyer]

I don't let a running saw hang either. I have seen a few climbers that will set the brake on a running saw and let it hang, but I keep my saws tuned so they start on first pull when warm.
Rick

 

[MISteve]

Mine is a tearaway from Baileys. I thought that would be best. What about gloves? I have been using rubber coated gloves,same as I use on the ground. Seems like they grip to good. They get caught in my snaps and carabiners, as well as my flipline, man does that feel good, and I cannot slip a rope when I want to lower something down. What type of glove do you use?

 

[Isna]

Always turn off the saw when moving around in the tree. A well tuned warm saw should start on the first pull when you need to cut. I use gloves on the ground but usually avoid them when tree climbing. When I really have to (freezing weather), I choose the thinest gloves available (usually use thermal under-gloves, without regular gloves over them). Recently found knitted gloves with a rubber lining (grip) on the inside. Don't know how you call them but they are really handy.

 

[Nailsbeats]

I do it whenever I feel that restarting it is slowing me down. When I limb a conifer on the way up is when I do it the most, the saw doesn't shut off until I'm ready to top it out or I have to set some rigging for a limb I can't free fall. Always remember the chain break and watch out for a hot muffler and where it is placed.

 

[MISteve]

The last two trees I have done, one pine and a maple with a million branches, I got tired of starting the saw. Still, seems like the less it is on, the less risk there will be.

 

[Tree Pig]

The last two trees I have done, one pine and a maple with a million branches, I got tired of starting the saw. Still, seems like the less it is on, the less risk there will be.

To me just too many things that could go wrong moving with a running saw. It does slow you down a lot but for me its worth the piece of mind... Then again I am not doing this day in and day out... speed and production are not a huge concern.

 

[minuteman tree]

Mine is always off. Seen a few guys get cut, and having to go rescue someone isn't high I'm my list of likes.

 

[beastmaster]

On conifers with lots of branches on a single trunk, I will leave the saw running with the brake on if I am only moving up a few steps to the next ring. Normally I don't though.

 

[deevo]

Mine is a tearaway from Baileys. I thought that would be best. What about gloves? I have been using rubber coated gloves,same as I use on the ground. Seems like they grip to good. They get caught in my snaps and carabiners, as well as my flipline, man does that feel good, and I cannot slip a rope when I want to lower something down. What type of glove do you use?

If you got the buckingham tear away that's a good choice. Atlas blue rubber grip gloves are good, and they have heavier ones for winter use. They have good dexterity and can tie/untie things pretty good. I guess it's a preference for some, I always shut mine off between cuts, like some have said, the muffler part brushes up on your pants or gear you'll know it! Also if groundies need to get your attention it's a bit easier for them. I only leave mine running when in the bucket and it's in the scabbard.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

If the branches are that close together, I just cut as many as I can reach then shut down and move. I guess, on some conifers, that may be 6 - 10 branches between starts.
I also use the blue Atlas gloves in trees. At first I had the problems the OP mentioned, but I learned to adjust to them pretty quickly. Hate to climb without them now.
Rick

 

[derwoodii]

A lot depends on task but more often I'm cool to leave saw running brake on, but I'll not let it idle for long say 1 to 3 minutes if the rig or move takes my time.

Note warm it up on ground 1st before you start your climb, be sure idle chain n brake are fit for task before you get to tree top.

 

[tree md]

I usually shut the saw off but if I am making fast cuts close together I will leave it on sometimes with the break engaged. Sometimes I will leave the 660 or 440 running with the break engaged when I am making fast spar cuts while chunking it out. Saves energy from having to lug the big saw up and restarting it. On the old top handle Poulans that were popular for climbing back in the 90's, I would always leave those running because they had a tendency to not want to start again once they got hot. What a piece of ####. So glad I don't have to use those anymore. Most times I shut my saw off though. I always worry in the back of my mind that the muffler is going to come in contact with my climbing line and melt it.

On the gloves, I rarely use gloves in the tree but I have started keeping a pair in my chalk bag for when I need them. I have been using the "Grease Monkey" gloves that they sell at home depot. I was using the fingerless ones but have been unable to find them in stock lately.

 

[MISteve]

Muffler burn on me or the rope. I had not thought of that. Thanks. Being able to hear those on the ground,good point. One thing about my idling saw, it gets plenty of oil on the bar. It will run less now.

 

[tree md]

Just one tip on the idling saw. Pretty common knowledge but you never know who is reading this stuff.

You always want to have your chain tensioned enough that it will not freewheel in the tree (or on the ground for that matter). I like to set my tension to where the chain will stop when I let off the trigger. Not to the point where it is binding but there is a sweet spot where it will stop when you let off the trigger without binding.

 

[MISteve]

My chain quits when I get off the throttle. Only idles with the brake on anyway. Oil pump is strong even at low rpms. No adjustment on this model. I tend to have my chains a little on the tight side.

 

[VA-Sawyer]

Just what kind of saw are you using ? Most saws I have worked on the oil pump is driven by the sprocket not the crankshaft. They only pump when the chain is turning.
Rick