Saw running while climbing

[ozzy42]

I usually shut the saw off but if I am making fast cuts close together I will leave it on sometimes with the break engaged. Sometimes I will leave the 660 or 440 running with the break engaged when I am making fast spar cuts while chunking it out. Saves energy from having to lug the big saw up and restarting it. On the old top handle Poulans that were popular for climbing back in the 90's, I would always leave those running because they had a tendency to not want to start again once they got hot. What a piece of ####. So glad I don't have to use those anymore. Most times I shut my saw off though. I always worry in the back of my mind that the muffler is going to come in contact with my climbing line and melt it.

On the gloves, I rarely use gloves in the tree but I have started keeping a pair in my chalk bag for when I need them. I have been using the "Grease Monkey" gloves that they sell at home depot. I was using the fingerless ones but have been unable to find them in stock lately.

LOL I remember my uncle twice throwing a ''pull-on'' out of the tree after pulling on one for 40 or 50 pulls and it still not starting but the starter chord breaking.
The old DAs weren't too bad ,but they cost $250 compaired to $79 for a 2000micro.A lot of money for a climb saw back then.


To the OP: fortunately ,today's saws readily start with only a short pull when warmed up.
Not worth having them run all the time.The exception being,[as others have stated] with a bigger rear handle on a spar.
I will let them run if I can get to the next cut quickly.

 

[Scrat]

Just one tip on the idling saw. Pretty common knowledge but you never know who is reading this stuff.

You always want to have your chain tensioned enough that it will not freewheel in the tree (or on the ground for that matter). I like to set my tension to where the chain will stop when I let off the trigger. Not to the point where it is binding but there is a sweet spot where it will stop when you let off the trigger without binding.

I think what Tree Md is saying is you should have your saw properly tuned so the Idle speed is below the speed in which the clutch is engaging and driving the chain. And have your chain properly adjusted to the manufacturers specification for optimal performance and SAFETY.:msp_thumbup:

 

[MISteve]

I have a Solo 633.Chain does not move at idle. Oil pump is not adjustable. Starts with one pull when warm. My original question was should you climb with the saw running. I should have stated first that the brake is on as soon as I am done with the cut. Chain is tight.

 

[mitch95100]

NO F___ING WAY. Shut it off as soon as your done with your cut... Restart when you repositioned and in a safe stable location to run a saw.

umm its comon sense but, when are you ever in a stable position hanging from a rope in a tree??

 

[chief116]

umm its comon sense but, when are you ever in a stable position hanging from a rope in a tree??

ummm, you're doing it wrong.

 

[Tree Pig]

umm its comon sense but, when are you ever in a stable position hanging from a rope in a tree??

All the time actually.

ummm, you're doing it wrong.

I guess that covers that

 

[minuteman tree]

I have an old cs 3000 with a 12" bar. It's pretty ugly, but runs great. Starts with 1 pull when its warm.

 

[MISteve]

What more can be asked of a saw, than to start on one pull. My Solo has a 16 inch bar. Does 12 seem to be long enough most of the time?

 

[Bounty Hunter]

What more can be asked of a saw, than to start on one pull. My Solo has a 16 inch bar. Does 12 seem to be long enough most of the time?

We have 12" and 14" bars on our 200Ts...and i find that i favor the 12" most of the the time. If ya need a longer bar, ya probably need a bigger saw...

 

[MISteve]

I kind of like the extra reach of the 16, but I have noticed that if I have to use all 16, it is a little hard to control being a top handle model. I will be needing a second saw any way, maybe try a 12 bar.

 

[minuteman tree]

I find the 12" to be just right. It handles everything I throw at it and keeps the saw nice and balanced.

 

[MISteve]

I like the sound of nice and balanced. One of the things I am hoping to gain by less bar is not so much how heavy the saw is, but how does it feel when in use. Mine feels heavy even though it is listed as 8 lbs. That is as light as most other models of similar cc's. Maybe a trip to the dealers is in order. Try a few and see if bar length feels different.

 

[beastmaster]

I recently did a job and had to use a big husky in the tree with maybe a 42 in bar. Each time I turned it off it would take 20 pulls to start again. It was killing me. It wasn't my saw or I think I would of throu it out of the tree. I switched it out for my little 038 with a 28 in bar. Twice as much work but at least it starts easy. When I got low enough I used the husky but had the grounds men start it each time I needed it and hand it to me off a ladder. That husky wore out the whole crew.
When I first started climbing they didn't have chain brakes and we use to keep our saws running all the time while limbing big pines, hanging them off home made saw lanyards of 1/2 in three strand maybe 3 ft long. We were trained to never cross over our safetys with the saw running but passing it behind or backs to switch sides Never had no issues with it running. Big saws too o64's 084's. They also didn't have compression releases either so they were hard sometimes to start, it was better to just keep them running.

 

[MISteve]

Good info. Had not thought about passing over my safetys with it on. But brake is still on. You are a bigger man than me if an 038 with a 28 inch bar is little. Mine is almost too big on the ground. Love the power on my 038 Magnum.

 

[mic687]

On conifers with lots of branches on a single trunk, I will leave the saw running with the brake on if I am only moving up a few steps to the next ring. Normally I don't though.

I do the same