Sawing to length gauge

[Rleonard]

Has anyone tried these length gauges sold by Baileys?

http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5182?mv_session_id=VktyBTqo&product_sku=47150

At $9.00 it is certainly reasonable, but the 7.00 shipping nearly doubles the price. Guess I'd add in some more items.

I like to have my wood cut length to be reasonably accurate. I usually gauge it with a stick, but this seems like it would be faster.

Bob

 

[JUDGE1162]

I have one, it is OK, it only works on one side so you need to set up your logs so that you are cuting right to left (the round will fall on the right side), the nut is nice but the rods are made of plastic but I would guess you could just replace it if it broke with threaded rod from the hardware store. I got mine from my local husky dealer, it was $10. So if you don't need anything else from Baileys to make the shipping worth it, that might be the best route they are also on e-bay every now and again.


So if you have a lot of bucking to do they are fine but if you are like me and fell and then buck that tree then fell another tree and buck it, the rods get in the way ( you need to remove them to fell and limb) at times and when you full bar cut they can get in the way too.

Another trick I use is a stick (16" in my case) and a lumber crayon, just mark your cuts on the log before you cut it is fast and gives my "helpers" (wife, father, etc.) something to do and keep them out of my way while I am cutting.

 

[manual]

Never used one, Looks like it would get in the way for me. in the limbing area.
If you were cutting out of a pile might be a help.
I always thought it would be a "better mouse trap" if it was spring loaded like an antenna.
"I just Know I made some rich written this down and not getting a patent first". :bang:

 

[JUDGE1162]

It is plastic and flexiable and screws on and off pretty easly I just remove mine to limb or fell and put it on when a have a big pile of logs to cut up.

The spring idea seem cool but would make it cost more and I am sure harder to remove and reinstall

 

[turnkey4099]

I have used homebuilt ones for years. They mount on the bar mount studs so you have to remove both studs to install or remove. Yes, they do get in the way while limbing but nothing that can't be worked around. I currently only have one for on myi small limb/small bucking saw (Husky 51). Put it on for the limbing, remove it for bucking depending on the log. If their are a lot of big limbs that will make firewood, I want the gauge on as eyeballing lenght while chopping them 'in place' gives me pieces usually very long.

I would also use one on my main bucking saw but the Stihl bar studs are inset in a recess so I can't do it. I should just buy a commercial one I guess.
They do speed up the bucking considerable over using a stick, pre marking or whatever.

Harry K

 

[bump_r]

I immediately see 3 issues with these contraptions -first one's been addressed already - the ungainliness when doing anything but sawing to length.

Next, is it REALLY that tough to eyeball within a reasonable tolerance your desired length? How accurate/precise does a hunk-o-wood need to be?

Finally, when cutitng to length, I normally run into situations where I prefer to NOT cut where "the stick" told me to - like at a crotch, around a knot, nail, or end of a length (I'd rather have, for example 2 14 inchers than a standard 16" and a 12" oddball where a 28" end remains.

They just seem to me to be a cure for an ill that does not exist...

 

[KMB]

I use my bars as gauges. I cut to 16". With my 16" bar, I eye-ball from the front of the powerhead to the tip of the bar. With my 20" bar, I have a line lightly scratched on both sides of my bar at 16" from the front of the powerhead. Not exact, but works for me.

I also thought about the gauge from Bailey's, but I read about the above way to measure lengths and thought I'd try it first - and I like it.

Kevin

 

[blis]

over here when ppl generally sawed 1m logs they used to have a metal stick taped to back handle, so that from tip of bar to tip of stick would measure 1m, so you could easily measure the logs... Maybe could be tweaked for your needs too...

 

[SWE#Kipp]

this looks nice http://www.laserfox.de/

 

[rmihalek]

I do what KMB suggested but I use the powerhead as the "gauge." From the end of the rear handle I measured 16 inches and made a mark on the bar. It's about 2 inches past the bucking spike. So, I can hold the saw with two hands, rotate it 90 degrees, place the mark on the bar at the end of the log and then take note of where the back of the rear handle is. Then, I just spin the saw back to its normal position and make the cut. There's nothing to add or remove to the saw. I'd bet I'd break that guide stick off after an hour or two of cutting since I'm usually cutting in tight quarters.

 

[Rleonard]

OK,
You guys have me convinced that there are better ways. Thanks. That laser deal is interesting but I see it prone to errors.

Bob

 

[turnkey4099]

I immediately see 3 issues with these contraptions -first one's been addressed already - the ungainliness when doing anything but sawing to length.

Next, is it REALLY that tough to eyeball within a reasonable tolerance your desired length? How accurate/precise does a hunk-o-wood need to be?

Finally, when cutitng to length, I normally run into situations where I prefer to NOT cut where "the stick" told me to - like at a crotch, around a knot, nail, or end of a length (I'd rather have, for example 2 14 inchers than a standard 16" and a 12" oddball where a 28" end remains.

They just seem to me to be a cure for an ill that does not exist...

Ungainliness: Once you are used to it, it ain't that much. Really only comes into play when you are cutting a limb flush with the log and even there only a few result in an awkward cut.

Eyeball: Can't speak for others, but it doesn't work for me. On small stuff I wind up cutting very long, on big stuff too short.

Not cutting where the stick says: Why would you have to do that? In fact that is one of the bennies over premarking, you can adjust your cuts as you go without screwing up the premarking.

As for accuracy (not your comment) - no, they are no more accurate than other methods and obsessign about getting uniform cuts is not something I do. Even with my gauge (16") my cuts will vary from about 15" to 17".

Gauges are not for everyone, in fact not even for most people. It is something I recommend trying before dismissing it out of hand though.

Harry K

 

[turnkey4099]

Using bar (or powerhead) for gauging. That requires turning the saw 90 degrees twice. I do it for my Husky 51 as it isn't big when I don't have the gauge on. No thanks when using bigger saws - my wrists/arms get tired enough withoug unecessary twisting/turning.

Harry K

 

[Haywire Haywood]

I made my own with a long nut from Ace hardware and one of those fiberglass reflective rods they sell there. I haven't used it yet, still use the bar method.

Ian