sawmill rebuild alaskan to Johns supper mill

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bigjohn1895

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I'm getting ready to remake my Alaskan mill to be 36"with handle bars so I can mill logs on the ground
The reson for the handle bars is I have them laying around and there adjustable. So I want to use the brake handle for throttle but not sure how to hook it up unless I made it permanent any one have pics of there set ups since all the pics got hacked will start posting pics as soon as I get this remote throttle thing worked out
 
I reckon you a much better off to lift one end of the log so that the mill powers down under it's own weight - that way very little pushing is needed.

In terms of remote throttles there are several options.
The simplest is a cable tie. Pros: quick and easy Cons: only has two settings on-off

Then there's a secondary lever pushing on the trigger.
This one is made from half a bicycle brake calliper
Side2.jpg Trigside.jpg
There are simpler versions than this - any lever will need good padding or it will wear away the trigger.
This design is better than most that need to be removed to use the saw off the mill


Finally there is hooking directly onto the trigger mechanism like this
Cablepath.jpg
This one is also clear to use without being removed.
 
Guess I will have to take a good look at my saw its a Makita 6400 big bore and ported if any one is interested
 
Its more of a milling port basically more for power then rpms worked with an engine builder to get it rite took 3top ends
I'm a pro chainsaw carver and this saw is one of my block out saws faster carving means more money so all my saws get this treatment
In case your wundering I use 7saws to carve
ms192 full port 12"dime tip
Husquvarna 445 stock 12"quarter tip 445 with power gouge
555 muffler mod porting coming soon 16"bar
Ms361 big bore full port 18in bar
Makita 6421 full port big bore 24"bar
Makita 6401 mill port big bore 32 bar
Also Makita electric saws for winter since we get 3foot of snow
 
Its more of a milling port basically more for power then rpms worked with an engine builder to get it rite took 3top ends
I'm a pro chainsaw carver . . . . .

Coo...el.

That sounds like it will be OK. You may need to play with the raker height to get max benefit of the extra power. Are you aware of progressive raker setting?

Did you do the porting? What has actually been done?
 
I did the porting for the most part but that was 2years ago so I can't answer with certainty
As for using the power I'm running the biggest rim sprocket I can fit under the stock cover it. Still cuts nice with the 32"bar in maple but my mill is maxed. Out at. 26 I may have to
Drop 1pin when I redo the mill this saw mills very nicely when I sharpen the chain for carving but a stock milling chain is slow
The way I sharpen my chains for carving is to bring the cutters back to 12deg cut the back 1/3 of the cutter off. And one more little secret I won't share on the open forum since
If done wrong will make the chain dangerous cutting the back is the most beneficial to milling any ways gives the saw dust a place to go
I have also tried skip tooth but felt I needed a bigger rim after modding it for carving was about the same as a the carving mod chain non skip
 
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