sc252 cutter head clunking

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

stavenstumper

ArboristSite Lurker
Joined
Aug 13, 2004
Messages
42
Reaction score
0
Location
Connecticut
Hi. I just replaced the bearings on cutterwheel shaft and the belt cutter wheel to jack shaft. Everything nice and tight. Belt tensioned with the u-shaped tool but I don't have a 15/16 socket to fit my torque wrench. Page from the manual say to use to @ 125 lbs tqe to get 1/4 inch deflection in the belt. Had to guess at 125 ft lbs. When I engaged the cutterwheel. I am getting a clunking noise.

Anybody have any suggestions?

Thanks....
 
Had the same problem on a 206 and a 252. Both times it turned out to be a worn cutter wheel shaft at the bearings. May not be your problem, but worth a look. I have found Vermeer shafts to be on the soft side and go to my local machine shop and have them made out of 4130 steel. No more problems.
 
Stavenstumper Did you find the source of the noise? Another area it could be is wear in the bolts that secure the cutting wheel to the shaft.
 
Question about my cutter wheel, just purchased 2010 sc252 , wondering why when machine is not running the cutter wheel turns harder than hell, is belt to tight? Or bearing problem?
 
Also, what year did they come out with the control levers on the top, being straight levers, rather than on the side of machine, and being one angled left one straight and one angled right? Thanks
 
2008 started levers on top. You're belt is way too tight. Manual says 125 "inch" pounds, so that's about 10 "foot" lbs. Plyscamp is right, only time I get a clunking is if there is play between bearing collar and shaft, unless bearings are shot, which yours are not. Shafts are $300 now, so hope it's not that.


Stumper63
 
And your cutter wheel turns hard when clutch is disengaged because there is a brake attached to the electric clutch that is supposed to slow the wheel to a stop faster when the switch is turned off. That started around the same time as the operator presence system levers, maybe a bit earlier.

Stumper63
 
Ok well I been slacking didn't check anything yet but I am going to in a few hours thanks again stumped
 
Any idea where the plug is to disable the auto sweep? Vermeer 2010 sc252
There is something unplugged under hood just wondering what it is it's on the right attached to hood just a little plug unhooked
 
Last edited:
I had that noise on a old 222. it turned out to be the guard on the cutter head pulley. the hinge bolt was a little worn.
 
First of all , Stumper is right on the money with the "inch-pound" instead of "ft/lbs" setting!!!
Secondly, Plyscamps is right about the cutter-wheel shaft being soft/worn in the bearing area....

As far as thats concerned,here's what I did to cure the problem of new bearings "knocking"
The knocking occurs because of wear on the shaft and because of the slip-fit tolerance between the bearing bore and the shaft diameter. There's a few thousandths clearance , which allows you to slip the bearing on easily.But, when you tighten down the lock-collar ,it cocks the bearing bore at a very slight angle.. Coupled with the inevitable wear on the shaft from the previous bearings ,the tolerance is greater resulting in a "knock sound. About the third time you replace bearings, the wear will be greater, usually resulting in having to replace a very expensive cutter shaft.
After replacing two shafts, I took a worn shaft to a certified welder and had the bearing surface area built up with a hard-face rod.
Then ,I took a new bearing and the shaft to a precision machine shop and had the shaft turned down to a press-fit O.D. I also had the shop to machine flats for the bearing set screws to seat on..I pressed on new bearings and installed the assembly. This cured the knocking problem .Not only curing the knocking, the bearings lasted much,much longer.. I had this done in mid-season 2011 and it has lasted since then, with the bearings just now starting to make a slight noise. I have just taken a spare ,worn shaft to the welder to get it done for the 2013 season....
Stan
 
First of all , Stumper is right on the money with the "inch-pound" instead of "ft/lbs" setting!!!
Secondly, Plyscamps is right about the cutter-wheel shaft being soft/worn in the bearing area....

As far as thats concerned,here's what I did to cure the problem of new bearings "knocking"
The knocking occurs because of wear on the shaft and because of the slip-fit tolerance between the bearing bore and the shaft diameter. There's a few thousandths clearance , which allows you to slip the bearing on easily.But, when you tighten down the lock-collar ,it cocks the bearing bore at a very slight angle.. Coupled with the inevitable wear on the shaft from the previous bearings ,the tolerance is greater resulting in a "knock sound. About the third time you replace bearings, the wear will be greater, usually resulting in having to replace a very expensive cutter shaft.
After replacing two shafts, I took a worn shaft to a certified welder and had the bearing surface area built up with a hard-face rod.
Then ,I took a new bearing and the shaft to a precision machine shop and had the shaft turned down to a press-fit O.D. I also had the shop to machine flats for the bearing set screws to seat on..I pressed on new bearings and installed the assembly. This cured the knocking problem .Not only curing the knocking, the bearings lasted much,much longer.. I had this done in mid-season 2011 and it has lasted since then, with the bearings just now starting to make a slight noise. I have just taken a spare ,worn shaft to the welder to get it done for the 2013 season....
Stan

I agree, I'm just finishing changing out shaft and bearings and belts on mine today with the main problem being shaft wear. Thanx Stan for the pointer, I'll take my old shaft and have it redone
 
First of all , Stumper is right on the money with the "inch-pound" instead of "ft/lbs" setting!!!
Secondly, Plyscamps is right about the cutter-wheel shaft being soft/worn in the bearing area....

As far as thats concerned,here's what I did to cure the problem of new bearings "knocking"
The knocking occurs because of wear on the shaft and because of the slip-fit tolerance between the bearing bore and the shaft diameter. There's a few thousandths clearance , which allows you to slip the bearing on easily.But, when you tighten down the lock-collar ,it cocks the bearing bore at a very slight angle.. Coupled with the inevitable wear on the shaft from the previous bearings ,the tolerance is greater resulting in a "knock sound. About the third time you replace bearings, the wear will be greater, usually resulting in having to replace a very expensive cutter shaft.
After replacing two shafts, I took a worn shaft to a certified welder and had the bearing surface area built up with a hard-face rod.
Then ,I took a new bearing and the shaft to a precision machine shop and had the shaft turned down to a press-fit O.D. I also had the shop to machine flats for the bearing set screws to seat on..I pressed on new bearings and installed the assembly. This cured the knocking problem .Not only curing the knocking, the bearings lasted much,much longer.. I had this done in mid-season 2011 and it has lasted since then, with the bearings just now starting to make a slight noise. I have just taken a spare ,worn shaft to the welder to get it done for the 2013 season....
Stan

Here's an update since I wrote this last post..As I mentioned ,I had taken a worn shaft to get it welded,machined,etc..Well last week,in the middle of a job, the outer cutter-shaft pillow-block suddenly spit all the ballbearings out the side !!..That must have been the slight noise I had heard... I didn't have time to replace everything,so I went to the bearing supply, got a PC208-24 pillow-block. When I was replacing the bearing, I noted that there was NO wear on the shaft...so evidentally ,machining the shaft to a slight press-fit paid off...Thankfully it was the outer bearing,opposite the drive pulley side , everything came apart nicely ( Thanks to a liberal coating of NeverSeez...)and I was able to finish the job and only lost 2 1/2 hrs...
So now ,I'll just build up my newly welded,machined spare cuttershaft and keep it ready until its time to change it out...
 
I have a sc252 Vermeer and am wondering what type of hydraulic fluid to put in it, I bought ISo 46... Is this ok.?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top