Meanwhile, up here in the Great White North on the East Coast, it was sunny and in the 70*, it's windy now and raining but the AC unit is keeping the house at 66* [emoji41]
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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And we are looking at snow on the hills on Monday 
I had the stove on for all of yesterday evening. It wasn't that cold at 19C in the house but typical UK autumn weather it had been misty then drizzled all day and the humidity was nuts making it feel damp and cold. My cheap clock and weather station was showing 70% humidity inside the house. Stove took the chill of and dragged the humidity down to 63%. Still had a little condensation on the windows this morning and the over night low was probably 10-12C. Being a small island we get mild but damp a lot.
you forgot the drop bears Jeff.
you forgot the drop bears Jeff.
I prefer chainmail if there are drop bears about
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Here's the view now. I'm hoping the small tree that's bowed over behind the truck will recover as it's one of the very few oaks in my yard. The big tree behind the oak is a mostly dead aspen with a good deal of core rot that I was planning on cutting today. I don't want to mess around with all of that extra snow weight so I won't try it until later or maybe tomorrow.
It’s a Regency Alterra.
I would go shake the snow off the oak right away. A couple years ago I lost quite a few trees that looked that way and many were oaks, the rest were cherry. The oaks stayed like that or split up the middle, the cherrys mainly snapped, but a few stayed that way. I plan on cleaning up about 10 more of them this fall/winter.
It does look beautiful though
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Cool, is it the 1200 or 2400.
Mine is the pacific energy alderlea T5 and has almost the same burn specs as the cs2400.
Great idea.I would go shake the snow off the oak right away. A couple years ago I lost quite a few trees that looked that way and many were oaks, the rest were cherry. The oaks stayed like that or split up the middle, the cherrys mainly snapped, but a few stayed that way. I plan on cleaning up about 10 more of them this fall/winter.
It does look beautiful though
I see I lost a low branch on my big red maple shade tree. Need to rehang that little bird house again, starting to think that it's bad luck lol.
is this what happens when you leave a 32 cc ms180 and a 67 cc 038 AVS too close together?I seem to have a project for the winter. Think it's all there, although the box was bursting open (or a nosey delivery man had burst it) so a few small bits like screws may have been lost. I know I need a piston (planning on a Meteor) and an air filter cover (eBay AM), bar and chain.
On files, the stihl eady file is identical to the pferd csx, and the pferd is cheaper by a few pounds here.
http://www.pferd.com/uk-en/4695_ENG_HTML.htm
I've checked my chains and I need a 4mm for the pm3 3/8s picco, and a 5.2mm for the rs3 3/8s 0.063" can I buy one pferd/easy file and just buy the other round file, and swap as appropriate? or is the holder different from one file size to another?
http://www.pferd.com/uk-en/4695_ENG_HTML.htm
I've checked my chains and I need a 4mm for the pm3 3/8s picco, and a 5.2mm for the rs3 3/8s 0.063" can I buy one pferd/easy file and just buy the other round file, and swap as appropriate? or is the holder different from one file size to another?
Well then, you wont need to cut much wood down there. If you get saw sick and feel the urge to cut a little wood, give me a holler and we will go see zogger and see what he has needing to cut up. Or,,,, we can go clear out my house site, not much firewood, but some good sized whitepinesThe funny thing is I'm going to be spending thanksgiving through Easter south of you. This may be the most extreme weather I'll see all winter.
Sweet, looks like you've caught something, CAD
.Bums me out when I get a package that has been taped up by the shipping company or when it's so bad they make me sign it before dropping it because of the packaging.
I got a saw from a guy who threw it in a huge box, to his credit he wrapped it in two very nice towels first, I could have fit 2 more saws in the box still
, at least with only the two towels in there 
, the shipping company made me sign for that one . Then I let him know with pictures of the saw hanging out of the box and he said ok. I bought another saw from him and said it needs to be packed better he said ok, got it and it was a smaller saw and I got some socks and a couple kitchen towels also
.If anyone is interested in how I prep them read below, if not just press like post and skip the rest
.Here's how I typically clean and ship them; drain oil, run saw until there is no oil, drain fuel, run fuel completely out(I don't run my saws empty except to ship them!), blow out the fuel tank, replace cap, blow the whole saw of including chain, remove the bar and chain and blow them off, and the clutch cover inside and, then I blow the top cover off real good and remove it and blow it off, I then blow out the air filter compartment with the choke on, then the filter, then the compartment with the filter off and then the carb mouth in case anything fines are on/in it, replace all those pieces. I do not normally remove the recoils on them to clean in there, but sometimes it's needed and I do.
Then I line the bottom of a box with a couple inches of paper/foam, place the saw in the box on it's bottom or the front whatever works(sometimes I remove the dawgs first most times I don't), then pack around it until it's snug as a bug in a rug or a little bit snugger
. If I remove the dawgs if I'm shipping a chain they go in plastic bags and are separated from the saw. When shipping bars I wrap them in cardboard and then fold it over and tape them up then place them along side of the saw(Before packing the heck out of the box) many times I use bubble wrap around the cardboard also. If the bar is 20" or under I pack the box with paper then fold two of the flaps down, then lay the bar across the top diagonally from corner to corner, fold the other two flaps down and tape as normal, but I also tape the open areas on the ends of the flaps.
Oh yeah, I got CAD, oops.
Saw had a decent amount of shredded card and bubble wrap, but box need a bit more tape. Plus the saw had been in bits for a while and all the small bits were piled on the small plastic crate in the box... So screws and nuts and AV mounts etc ended up all around the box (hopefully non out the box but...). I think I'd have bagged that lot before boxing it up. It seems ok though, definitely got the big bits. Handle plus tank, complete bottom end (came off another saw to the rest... An exploding clutch killed the other and is why the saw was in bits), top cover, cylinder (no piston as it was used on another saw), muffler, carb, top cover, clutch bits, clutch cover, brake band, brake handle, pull start, flywheel, coil.... And a lot of little bits that it'll be fun trying to identify and work out what's missing!
Saw had a decent amount of shredded card and bubble wrap, but box need a bit more tape. Plus the saw had been in bits for a while and all the small bits were piled on the small plastic crate in the box... So screws and nuts and AV mounts etc ended up all around the box (hopefully non out the box but...). I think I'd have bagged that lot before boxing it up. It seems ok though, definitely got the big bits. Handle plus tank, complete bottom end (came off another saw to the rest... An exploding clutch killed the other and is why the saw was in bits), top cover, cylinder (no piston as it was used on another saw), muffler, carb, top cover, clutch bits, clutch cover, brake band, brake handle, pull start, flywheel, coil.... And a lot of little bits that it'll be fun trying to identify and work out what's missing!
Can someone explain sprockets and chains to me please?
Thinking a LONG A way ahead, as the build will take months, but I'm considering a shortish bar as I won't need anything long. 25" at most, maybe less. Now I understand the 660 to be a torque monster, that won't run faster just because it's got a short bar on it but I'm thinking if I use an 8 tooth rim sprocket it'll rip a 25" bar fast, yes? What I'm baffled by is what length chain would that need? Ie would the standard for a ,25" bar fit, or would it need an extra link (err 83dl? That's an odd size surely). Anyway, lots of problems to solve with the build first I guess.
Thinking a LONG A way ahead, as the build will take months, but I'm considering a shortish bar as I won't need anything long. 25" at most, maybe less. Now I understand the 660 to be a torque monster, that won't run faster just because it's got a short bar on it but I'm thinking if I use an 8 tooth rim sprocket it'll rip a 25" bar fast, yes? What I'm baffled by is what length chain would that need? Ie would the standard for a ,25" bar fit, or would it need an extra link (err 83dl? That's an odd size surely). Anyway, lots of problems to solve with the build first I guess.
2400. Works great for me.
I was looking at that tree and the snow actually helped me because the normally straight tree now had a definite lean. Dumped it over and have the trunk bucked up. Stuck the saw in the very last cut before I was going to head to the shed and grab the 3601.
It was actually less rotted than it looked to be from the outside. We had used it as a target stop once it started dying but I only hit 5 or 6 bullets and didn't even phase the Chinese chain.
This was about 24" at the base, one of the largest aspen I've cut.
It was actually less rotted than it looked to be from the outside. We had used it as a target stop once it started dying but I only hit 5 or 6 bullets and didn't even phase the Chinese chain.
This was about 24" at the base, one of the largest aspen I've cut.
