Sorry. Allow me to tactfully change the subject... So guys ahhh, what’s the best rifle caliber for deer hunting?
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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You’re good.
Depends on what twist ratio you have on the barrel
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Oh, I couldn't see the link, thought it said 395 or you did
.Wait, I don't "need" one of those, but for that price I just might be able to find something to do with ityeah I suppose but how can you pass up a brand new 880 with with a 48" bar for a genuine €600 when they retail at €1750 and its straight from the dealer as Well ?
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I like the 7910's for sure
, you should try one some time.I think I have at least two mtronic saws and at least two auto tune saws, and I like them a lot, fuel economy is great which saves a lot of time as does not having to tune them. That's one of the reasons I just buy them all, I want to try them for myself, I get tired of listening to what everyone else says
. The one grip I've heard from guys who have run them is that they feel sloppy in hand for felling, but this is from guys who have run stihls most their life felling for a living; so I understand what they are saying, basically it doesn't feel like what they know or are used too. Just another stihl as far as how it feels to me, you either like it or deal with it, I dealt with it but at least it's smooth . I think I did the math one time and if the tune on a 461 was off and the saw was losing 10% of it's power then the 441 would be running right with it for HP specs. For me I would rather have a smooth fuel efficient saw that has decent air filtration as the time you save cleaning filters and filling the 460/461 will be time the 441 is still cutting, so at the end of the day it's probably a draw anyway. I think you did good myself, that saw should last many years in your care 
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Yes, although it will take me some time to work through the litre of stihl green I have.
That 33:1 was determined by the marketing department in collaboration with the accounting department.......... not the engineering department I’m sure.
Maybe, but my own accounting department says, 'oil is cheap, saws are not, if saws like oil then use plenty'
Similar for bar oil, bars and chains.... Although Jeff's Exxon Valdez comment is rather good! The bar oil use rate was about 2/3rds of a tank so not totally excessive. I was using up some from half a gallon of ep80/90 gear oil I found in dad's garage last week. I remembered buying the bottle .. 27 years ago. I bought it to change the
Gearbox oil in an old ford, my first car. Since husky say ep90 is the correct oil I thought I'd put it to use.
Similar for bar oil, bars and chains.... Although Jeff's Exxon Valdez comment is rather good! The bar oil use rate was about 2/3rds of a tank so not totally excessive. I was using up some from half a gallon of ep80/90 gear oil I found in dad's garage last week. I remembered buying the bottle .. 27 years ago. I bought it to change the
Gearbox oil in an old ford, my first car. Since husky say ep90 is the correct oil I thought I'd put it to use.
I forgot to say.... Springs rule! Rubber is so pathetic. A decent av system rules
I now have the picco pm3 on the saw (green) wanted to try the 63 ps 55 (yellow) I run the rs on the 291 and like it.
Visiting mum and dad yesterday, dad's very poorly, cancer has left him as skin and bones so he feels the chill. I arrived early evening to find he was feeling cold and had just climbed into bed. Lucky I'd arrived with another car boot full of dry wood splits, and a sack of kindling. Stove was soon burning beautifully and dad sat on the sofa beside it. Utterly priceless moment for me.
James Miller
Addicted to ArboristSite
Why not if he blows up the internet the world might realise theres things they can do outside.
22lr because you can use an oil filter as a suppressor and take deer any time you want.
Twist rate has more effect on what weight bullets will stabilize from a barrel then effectiveness of the round.Depends on what twist ratio you have on the barrel
Some guys couldn't kill a deer with an RPG others could do it with a slingshot.
Yes, but it talked about guns and a ratio.
Some on here might be able to with a boomerang
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Bobby Kirbos
Scrounger of Cellulose Based BTUs
Those guys have rifles with a left hand twist - you know, southern hemisphere and all...Yes, but it talked about guns and a ratio.
Some on here might be able to with a boomerang
Neil, I may have asked you this before, but I tend to forget anything more than 5 minutes old. Can you identify this car?
I'd go a step farther and say it has more to do with length of the projectile than weight. I have several Savage 250-3000's. For some reason Savage made them with a 1 in 14 twist, they shoot the 87 gr Speer best. Mine will shoot the 100 gr Rem core lokt great. A 100 grain pointy bullet that is a little longer will key hole at 50 yards. If you take a pointy bullet and file a little off the nose, it will shoot fine. The slow ROT won't stabilize a long bullet. In 1960-61 they started using a 1 in 10 twist and those barrels will stabilize 117gr Noslers great. I just don't collect rifles that new. They did the same thing with the 22 Savage HiPower. It's a 30-30 necked down to .228. .228 bullets can be hard to find. There are quite a few long .228's out there. So, my buddy made a hardened steel block with a hardened top plate that lets the points stick out. knocks the point off with the angle grinder and has perfect accurate paper punchers. You just have to hoard the hunting bullets when you find them.
1) 06 w/ 1 in 10 twist is best!!! May be boring, but will take virtually all big game at any reasonable range.
2) You are correct, bullet profile may require more twist, a round nose bullet will stabilize a lot easier than a pointed boat tail, and copper bullets (longer) are worse yet.
3) James, unless the bar bent, you can often "unstick" that tip. Put the bar in a vice, spray with oil, and start it moving with a hammer and screw driver. Often, stuff is just jammed in there and has to be removed. Usually happens when bar is completely buried, which is why I prefer bars that go through the wood.
2) You are correct, bullet profile may require more twist, a round nose bullet will stabilize a lot easier than a pointed boat tail, and copper bullets (longer) are worse yet.
3) James, unless the bar bent, you can often "unstick" that tip. Put the bar in a vice, spray with oil, and start it moving with a hammer and screw driver. Often, stuff is just jammed in there and has to be removed. Usually happens when bar is completely buried, which is why I prefer bars that go through the wood.
Man, you have much better sales than we do round here, very nice, you are always getting good stuff !
Neil, I may have asked you this before, but I tend to forget anything more than 5 minutes old. Can you identify this car?
Checker at a wild guess.
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