Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[SteveSS]

Got the house at 72* on scrounged wood

Too funny! When I went out to stoke up the wood burner this morning, I had the identical thought. Makes you kind of proud when you look at your wood pile, doesn't it? It's low 30's outside here right now, but it's toasty warm in the house. A little gas and a little sweat is what made it this warm.

 

[MustangMike]

It's a good feeling to know U cut UR own heat from a renewable resource!

My advice, if UR saw runs great, leave it alone. I remember the guy who had a freaky fast 396 Chevelle, but he wanted more, so he put a 427 in it, and it was slower! U can always wait to get another saw, but don't let go of one U like.

PM me any time.

 

[dancan]

Yes , i prefer scrounged wood to that from a pile of 8' if I can

 

[7sleeper]

Nice score Mikey517 !
Kudos to your friend !

Ambull , I gots no 550 and the 250 was borrowed
Why the van ? Well since it was paid for in one very affordable lump it's what I had to work with .
When I started on this road to recovery , 1 row in the back was an awful go for me but as the weekends clicked by it got to 2 rows and then 2 rows and 2 trips and I can tell you that it was still a hard go , I think if I had a truck bed staring at me it would have been discouraging because I wouldn't have been able to fill it .
Well as time went on the wood became a longer drag so back to 2 rows , 1 trip a day and it sucked .
Fast forward to now , I'm working on next years wood and hope to be into the following years wood by this spring and I don't care if it's 1 vanload at a time LOL , I'm at the best I've been in 3 years and yes it still sucks but the days don't look as grey at day's end and I'm still gaining .
Now that I think of it , I remember some days that were sunny but everything was still grey and dark ......
I don't know where I'd be if it wasn't for the firewood and the van but I'm positive I wouldn't at the strength level that I'm at .
This was after 1 plate and some hardware that was giving me some real problems had been removed .

None of the above is a lament , just a statement , hope it makes sense or helps someone , I've learned an awful lot in the last 3 years .
BTW , our WCB rates an amputated foot at a 15% disability so I'm only assessed at 5% .

Hey dancan,

not quite sure but has all the metal been removed? Because if the above is a recent xray, it looks like the single screw lost it's screw head. Nothing to worry about just important for you to know.

7

 

[7sleeper]

Yes sir, I got it. ....
I was thinking about the 79cc top end but I'll save that for later. Going from a 33cc Homelite to a 64cc already so figured I should get used to the additional power plus longer bar before going nuts.

Where do you pick up new air cleaners? Is it just a off the shelf variety that can be bought in any chainsaw shop? Probably don't need one right now since HD put a new one on plus a new plug. Rim sprocket, is there a huge difference vs the spur (I think that's the name for it)?

Removal of cat, want to do that. Haha, just made a Dr Seuss rhyme! Have to figure out how to remove the crimp first.

Only thing I really wish is a way to make this Makita look like a Dolmar. Man, those Dolmars are some sexy looking saws.

Hey ambull,

just a generell comment, you are overthinking a lot of things!

Further I will add what I recomend to some of your questions/comments.

1. bar oil
if bar oil is too thick, just add canola oil to the bar oil 50:50. Environmently friendly, cheap and totally sufficient! Many pro loggers use it exclusively! And there is nothing to worry about "underlubbing" your bar and chain if you stay under 24 inch!

2. cat
the 6421 does not have a cat! It has a so called SLR technique, you can read on the homepage all about it.

3. chain choice
For average joe firewood cutter, you couldn't care less what type of chain is on your saw! I know my homeowner safety chain cuts better than some of the full pro chain of firewood guys I have had contact with! It is the edge that cuts not the form!
Further if you are unhappy with the "safety humps" there is nothing in the world that not a few strokes with a flat file can do. With two - three strokes the safety chain is not "safety" anymore!

4. bar choice
If this is your saw,

why on earth are you thinking about a new bar?!?! I know a lot of "must have cool guys" are on this forum and always recomend the "best", but that bar hasn't even lost it's writing! This is a ultra low use bar! Writing is usually the first that gets worn off.

5. New top end = 64 =>80cc & porting
What for? So that you can line up with a bunch of guys here in this forum that jerk off when thinking about the power increase? The power increase is there with out a doubt, but do you have the wood size and amount so that you notice it? The increase is sensible if your wood is all in the 24 inch plus size category and you cut a few dozen chords of wood a year.
Although I am sure any pro will be faster with a generic 50cc saw than you with the 64cc. Why? Because he knows what he is doing, knows how to maintain his equipment and keep his chains sharp.


So please stop using your head and get some real world experience!

7

 

[dancan]

Hey 7 , yes , there is 1 broken screw still remaining from the removed plate , the surgeon said it wasn't an issue .
My wife does say something about a screw loose often but I don't think she's talking about that one ....

 

[7sleeper]

That isn't so seldom that they break off. So nothing to worry about.

7

 

[Marshy]

No scrounging lately, still working on my truck which sucks because I have a cord of wood blocked and waiting for pickup. Found one cylinder with a blown head gasket. No overheating but going to have the head checked for flatness. Likely going to replace valve seals while I'm at it. The real debate is if I should upgrade the cam since I'm in it so far... The other problem is I know practically nothing about GM 350's haha.

 

[MustangMike]

One of the most popular Chevy small blocks, 4" bore, 3.5" stroke. I believe it evolved when they stroked the 327, which also has a 4" bore. I believe most bolt on parts are interchangeable (heads, intakes, etc). There are also tons of 350s out there for parts if U need them, plus re-manufactured ones.

Good luck with it, hope U got a warm place to work on it.

 

[Marshy]

Not sure exactly what you are asking. Most people use round files for chain. 'Square filed' chains require special file shapes to get the cutter profiles. Most are actually 6 sided, even the ones called 'triangular'. There is also a 4 sided, single bit file that some use, but it is trapezoidal, not rectangular in cross section. Just to confuse us mortals.

Bottom line - if you want square filed chain, you will pay more for your files to get it.
...
Philbert

What I meant was, (from what I read and in general) round filed semi chisel seems to be more tolerant, holds an edge better/longer than round filed full chisel. How does square filed full chisel compare, is it less/same/more tolerant than round filed full chisel? The only thing the round vs square file effects is the gullet of the tooth right? So why does a square filed full chisel perform better than a round filed full chisel (or maybe it doesnt)?

Here I go thinkin' again, starting to sound like Ambull. J/k bud.

 

[svk]

I'm like ambull, once I get into something I want to learn every facet of that activity. But 7 does have a point. Get several cords under your belt and familiarize yourself with your saw before getting into mods.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

I guess everyone is tired of scrounging firewood, this thread is turning into everything but... lol

SR

 

[Marshy]

One of the most popular Chevy small blocks, 4" bore, 3.5" stroke. I believe it evolved when they stroked the 327, which also has a 4" bore. I believe most bolt on parts are interchangeable (heads, intakes, etc). There are also tons of 350s out there for parts if U need them, plus re-manufactured ones.

Good luck with it, hope U got a warm place to work on it.

It's in my garage and above freezing. I can add heat to the space but will have to fire the oil boiler to heat the baseboard. Wish had a thermo control with water coils so I could use that to heat my hydronic system...

What I meant about not knowing anything about them is that there are so much interchangeability its hard to know what parts (new or used) I should look/scrounge for to add some performance. Hell, Im not even sure what cam or heads I have on it stock... I have a Torquer II aluminum intake and a Edelbrock 650 carb that I picked up at a yard sale that I'm going to put on, a mild cam would probably wake this thing up the most, just not sure what to look for... need to read less about chainsaws and more about 350's I guess.

 

[MustangMike]

What I meant was, (from what I read and in general) round filed semi chisel seems to be more tolerant, holds an edge better/longer than round filed full chisel. How does square filed full chisel compare, is it less/same/more tolerant than round filed full chisel? The only thing the round vs square file effects is the gullet of the tooth right? So why does a square filed full chisel perform better than a round filed full chisel (or maybe it doesnt)?

Here I go thinkin' again, starting to sound like Ambull. J/k bud.

Semi chisel has a rounded corner on the cutter, full chisel & square file have an angled corner, called square, but not really.

Regular full chisel uses a round file, just like semi chisel. Square file uses a six sided file. The square file matches the profile of the tooth, U are not filing a round hole on a square tooth.

With square file the angles are different, U file from the outside in instead of from the inside out, and U have to make sure the corner of the file stays in the corner of the tooth. It is what they mostly use in the PNW, but is not common in the NE. I purchased a roll at a Stihl store that has been in business for over 20 yrs and they never had sold it previously.

Full chisel is generally 10-15% faster than semi, and square is generally 10-15% faster than full chisel.

full & square will hold up fine in clean wood, but are not as durable in dirty wood. The sharp corners that make full chisel & square efficient are vulnerable to being damaged by debris, but it makes them go through green wood like butter.

If U picture the wood grain going across the wood, a semi chisel is redundant, which enables it to hold up better in dirty wood. The bottom of the curf with semi is rounded, and as the chain drops down it recuts those rounded grains to full width. That is why it is a little slower, U R cutting the grain more than once.

Madsens Chainsaw website has some really good info on square if U are interested.

 

[Ambull01]

It's a good feeling to know U cut UR own heat from a renewable resource!

My advice, if UR saw runs great, leave it alone. I remember the guy who had a freaky fast 396 Chevelle, but he wanted more, so he put a 427 in it, and it was slower! U can always wait to get another saw, but don't let go of one U like.

PM me any time.

Well that's the issue, not sure if it's running great or not lol. Sounds like it's four stroking out of the cut but I have virgin 2 stroke years, not sure what I'm hearing.

Hey ambull,

just a generell comment, you are overthinking a lot of things!

Further I will add what I recomend to some of your questions/comments.

1. bar oil
if bar oil is too thick, just add canola oil to the bar oil 50:50. Environmently friendly, cheap and totally sufficient! Many pro loggers use it exclusively! And there is nothing to worry about "underlubbing" your bar and chain if you stay under 24 inch!

2. cat
the 6421 does not have a cat! It has a so called SLR technique, you can read on the homepage all about it.

3. chain choice
For average joe firewood cutter, you couldn't care less what type of chain is on your saw! I know my homeowner safety chain cuts better than some of the full pro chain of firewood guys I have had contact with! It is the edge that cuts not the form!
Further if you are unhappy with the "safety humps" there is nothing in the world that not a few strokes with a flat file can do. With two - three strokes the safety chain is not "safety" anymore!

4. bar choice
If this is your saw,

why on earth are you thinking about a new bar?!?! I know a lot of "must have cool guys" are on this forum and always recomend the "best", but that bar hasn't even lost it's writing! This is a ultra low use bar! Writing is usually the first that gets worn off.

5. New top end = 64 =>80cc & porting
What for? So that you can line up with a bunch of guys here in this forum that jerk off when thinking about the power increase? The power increase is there with out a doubt, but do you have the wood size and amount so that you notice it? The increase is sensible if your wood is all in the 24 inch plus size category and you cut a few dozen chords of wood a year.
Although I am sure any pro will be faster with a generic 50cc saw than you with the 64cc. Why? Because he knows what he is doing, knows how to maintain his equipment and keep his chains sharp.


So please stop using your head and get some real world experience!

7

1) Good tip, thanks. The bar oil I have now seems great so no need to cut it. The Husqvarna oil never made it to the chain, bar and chain was extremely hot so I took it back.

2) What!? Everything I've read talked about people removing the cat. Or maybe I misread.

3) True lol.

4) Yep, that's my saw. I was planning ahead dude! Well actually I was talking about getting a larger bar, perhaps 24". I'm going to keep this bar since it's in great shape. The saw is in great shape too, looks to be barely used just like the bar.

5) No, I'll never get it ported. No need what so ever for that. I was thinking in the future again. Stop trying to kill my joy! You're telling a Marine to stop using his head? That's a new one lol.

I'm like ambull, once I get into something I want to learn every facet of that activity. But 7 does have a point. Get several cords under your belt and familiarize yourself with your saw before getting into mods.

Very true. The mods are on a back burner right now because I'm just concerned with proper tuning. Plus my roadside scrounge has been sitting there for a while now and getting lonely. I need to give it the attention it deserves.

 

[Ambull01]

I guess everyone is tired of scrounging firewood, this thread is turning into everything but... lol

SR

My bad. I'll take my chainsaw questions to the chainsaw forum. Carry on with scrounging. I'll have to take some pics this weekend with my saw posing in front of some freshly cut rounds.

 

[svk]

My bad. I'll take my chainsaw questions to the chainsaw forum. Carry on with scrounging. I'll have to take some pics this weekend with my saw posing in front of some freshly cut rounds.

Don't feel bad about keeping your questions in here.

There's a huge wealth of knowledge in the saw forum but some people tend to go over the top when it comes to some things i.e. the mentality you MUST only have pro saws of certain brands, etc. You primarily want to cut firewood, hang out in the firewood cutting forum and get firewood cutting advice. When it's time to build a modded saw, then go over there for help.

 

[Philbert]

How does square filed full chisel compare, is it less/same/more tolerant than round filed full chisel? The only thing the round vs square file effects is the gullet of the tooth right? So why does a square filed full chisel perform better than a round filed full chisel (or maybe it doesnt)?

What Mike said above.

Semi-chisel and full chisel cutters are different animals. They have different shapes. Semi-chisel has a rounded corner or 'point' which cuts slightly slower, but holds up longer in dirty wood. Full-chisel has a sharp corner or point, which cuts faster, until that point dulls or gets bent.



BUT, (and it's a big 'but'), it's not just the pointy corner leading into the cut, it's the square profile of the cutter that cleans out the corner of the kerf on every pass that helps make full-chisel chain faster. With semi-chisel chain (and chipper chain), the lowest fibers in the kerf are first cut by the rounded corner of the cutter, then a second time by the side plate edge. This means additional work with semi-chisel chain, and slightly slower cutting speed. Manufacturers try to minimize these differences by using smaller diameter curves and flat side plates in some semi-chisel chains.



So full-chisel chain will generally cut faster that semi-chisel chain, but may not hold up as long in some conditions.

Now, square-chisel chain can be filed/ground with a round file or a 'square' file (not really square, as mentioned above). In general, a round file files both the top plate cutting edge and the side plate cutting edge at the same time, leaving a hollow ground profile with a sharp edge and point. Changing one angle (e.g. the top plate angle) affects the other (e.g. side plate cutting angle). With a square filed chain, the special files use separate faces to file flat (like a 'chisel') edges on the top and side plates, and can be manipulated to change these angles independently. This lets the filer place steeper (more acute) angles on both the top plate and side plate, if he/she chooses, to cut certain woods faster.




(Here's the part that will get me 'booed' by some). Square filed/ground chain typically has side plate angles that are closer to vertical than round filed/ground chain. This is the opposite of having a 'deep hook' (deep gullet) that many people advocate. I believe that this brings the side plate edge into the cut earlier, severing the wood fibers sooner when crosscutting, instead of being used to pull the chain into the cut (the 'self-feeding' idea). That is, more of the saw's power is used to sever the wood fibers than to pull the chain into the cut, resulting in faster cutting.

Some of these benefits are better realized in cleaner wood. Some are better realized in softer wood. In general, a steeper angle on a cutting edge will be 'sharper' and faster, while a blunter angle will be slower, but hold up longer. If you have to constantly stop cutting to touch up your cutters, you have to calculate that time into your overall performance in a work situation. This is different than in a race situation, where only 3 cuts are made ('two down and one up').

Just my opinions. (Glad you asked?)

Philbert

 

[Axfarmer]

It's in my garage and above freezing. I can add heat to the space but will have to fire the oil boiler to heat the baseboard. Wish had a thermo control with water coils so I could use that to heat my hydronic system...

What I meant about not knowing anything about them is that there are so much interchangeability its hard to know what parts (new or used) I should look/scrounge for to add some performance. Hell, Im not even sure what cam or heads I have on it stock... I have a Torquer II aluminum intake and a Edelbrock 650 carb that I picked up at a yard sale that I'm going to put on, a mild cam would probably wake this thing up the most, just not sure what to look for... need to read less about chainsaws and more about 350's I guess.

Marshy , I would be happy to answer any questions regarding your small block chevy. I am an ASE master auto tech and have been working on them for 30+ years.

 

[Marshy]

Marshy , I would be happy to answer any questions regarding your small block chevy. I am an ASE master auto tech and have been working on them for 30+ years.

PM inbound with some general questions.