I've made a spare chin holder out of scrap metal stud but I like yours better. What diameter of pipe? How are the dividers made? More photos?
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
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A couple of days last week I got a trailer full each of Red Oak and Cherry from the log yard. Misplaced the photos but shots of my trailer get a little boring, so no big deal. Spent a couple of days splitting and stacking down the hill now that the ground is dry enough to drive on.
In the process, I broke a chain. Can't remember last time I broke one. Right when I was in the rescuing the cherry from the burn pile which was going to be burnt the next day. No spare on hand so I had to rush home and find another. I've only been using one since it was the most used up chain and perfect for the dirt of the log yard.
The broken chain is almost used up tooth wise, so it's probably not worth getting fixed.
In the process, I broke a chain. Can't remember last time I broke one. Right when I was in the rescuing the cherry from the burn pile which was going to be burnt the next day. No spare on hand so I had to rush home and find another. I've only been using one since it was the most used up chain and perfect for the dirt of the log yard.
The broken chain is almost used up tooth wise, so it's probably not worth getting fixed.
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Another chain post. During my last firewood haul, while noodling, I ended up stretching a newer chain beyond use. i couldn't tighten it anymore. I plan on taking it somewhere to get a link? removed. Just curious, how much need to be removed. Last guy wasn't too sure.
I'm pretty sure I don't have the ability to care for it as he did, no lift, no garage and kids
. I told the wife I was going to buy a cargo trailer to haul the kids in to keep it clean 
.I'll sign up there, what's the name of it, he never told me or I didn't remember. I went on one and it was a dead forum, but still up, they must still be selling advertising there. I was pretty surprised since I think the most recent post was in 2018 iirc. I did make a post on there to see if I'd get a response from anyone.
Looks like you have some very worn components, bar/sprocket. Your saw will thank you if you update them, and you will be rewarded with a better cutting saw, faster and smoother. The damage on the bottom of the links is excessive for the amount of use.
Pretty sure that's the reason the chain broke too.
Noodling I find is pretty easy on chains, is your saw oiling well, do you know how to check it?
Also if the bar and sprocket are replaced the chain will get slightly tighter and maybe the chain will be fine.
Another tip is the rakers could be lowered a bit more, also the angle that they are filed should create a ramp that goes up to the cutter, yours appear to be filed down into the gullet.
I like the 8-track case, those look like they work well. I bet they are real cheap these days
.That is a very old chain, based on the style of the bumpers
I am noticing that the chains in both these posts have an unusual amount of wear on the bottoms of the rivets. It is not uncommon to see wear on the bottoms of the tie straps, due to improper chain tension, but I don't recall seeing this type of wear before. Wondering if your bar groove is excessively worn.
Guidelines on diagnosing chain / sprocket / guide bar wear in these publications by STIHL and Oregon.
Philbert
https://www.oregonproducts.eu/fileadmin/user_upload/PDF/MM_EN.pdf
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I'm pretty sure I don't have the ability to care for it as he did, no lift, no garage and kids
I'll sign up there, what's the name of it, he never told me or I didn't remember.
Ford truck enthusiasts, there is an Excursion specific section. It's a great resource, much like this place.
I see the rivets now on both chains. On another forum, the guys guided me toward replacing the sprocket. Both of the chains pictured were used with the old sprocket, so I'm not surprised there's wear. The old sprocket was Bad! I didn't know any better. I recently replaced with a rim sprocket.Looks like you have some very worn components, bar/sprocket. ..... The damage on the bottom of the links is excessive for the amount of use......
Noodling I find is pretty easy on chains, is your saw oiling well, do you know how to check it?
Also if the bar and sprocket are replaced the chain will get slightly tighter and maybe the chain will be fine.
Another tip is the rakers could be lowered a bit more, also the angle that they are filed should create a ramp that goes up to the cutter, yours appear to be filed down into the gullet.
I like the 8-track case, those look like they work well. I bet they are real cheap these days
Wrt noodling, I have checked the oiler and it's working fine. Bar, oil holes and groove kept clean. It does however, seem by bar gets hot when noodling. Maybe it's because I'm taking a 18-20" cut with my 038 and it's oiler is not up to that big of cut?? When we bought the saw eons the Stihl guys said he had the oiler up all the way, but I don't know.
On the rakers, I don't know if I'm filing them right. Could use advice.
There's a 2nd hand shop that sold VHS movies in the clear plastic cases for 50 cents each. I bought a couple, removed the cassette and handed it back to them.
Both chains were used with a badly worn sprocket. See my reply to Chipper1.
Not sure if the bad is worn out; I'll check out the guide you posted. There is a bur along both edges of the bar. I guess I should file it flush.
P.S. If the bar needs replacing, what other brands should I look at besides Stihl (expensive). I'm not a professional like some if you,just a homeowner/firewood cutter, so I don't need a top of the line bar, just something that's not junk.
It's a good idea to change those components together, the new sprocket is what most likely made the chain break. Changing the sprocket on chains that were damaged as badly as those were is nearly equivalent to changing to a different size sprocket. If the components are in fair condition you most likely won't experience chain breakage on a moderately powered saw, but when you have a lot of damage or a more powerful saw it goes with the territory.
The 038 should have no problem whatsoever oiling a 20" bar, I'd guess it's rated for more like a 28-32. I think your bar is getting hot from the worn components and the bar not being filed true on the top of the rail causing much more friction than normal.
For filing the rakers I prefer the husky guides, it automatically files them at an angle and it sets each raker to the cutter it corresponds to rather than a specific average depth based on a few cutters.
Which Craigslist l
City are you nearest too.
Got a link to a Husky guide you like?
St Louis CL is the one I watch.
St Louis CL is the one I watch.
Any brand that fits your saw, as long as the pitch, gauge, and drive link count matches. The basic Oregon bars are usually under $30 and should hold up for your use.
Philbert
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
Thanks. 6" PVC pipe, drawers are 1/2" foam PVC and dividers 3mm foam PVC. Keeps everything together and out of the rain.
Bottom 1/3 is for bars up to 42".
Made two wooden feet for the tube to stop it rolling and tipping out all the chain links etc in the top top drawer.
Worst thing, besides being heavy, is the bars slide on one another and slam into the ends of the tube when driving around corners. Will have to find a way to cable tie through the bar holes or something like that.
Sorry I'm a little dense. Foam PVC is a sheet goods that you cut on a table saw and then glue up??
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
yes. Just used regular PVC pipe cement despite being warned it wouldn't work. It tends to eat the foam PVC a little but only the thin foam sheet used as dividers needed care.
Perhaps plywood or the like would have worked too but would need to find a glue that worked with PVC and wood, or some other fastening or more clever design that doesn't need any glue/fastenings.
Thanks, I've never seen sheet PVC, but then I've never looked.
Sorry, one last question (my Mom was going to change my middle name to 'Why' because I asked so many questions). Is the pipe Schedule 40 or 80? Seems a 6" pipe of either would be pretty heavy. Don't know if they make S&D in 6". Also all the screw on fittings I've seen are much bulkier.
My needs aren't as great as yours; maybe I could get by with 4" pipe?
KiwiBro
Mill 'em, nails be damned.
We call it DWV here - drain, waste and vent. Not sure what schedule it is but its quite a thick wall and can handle plenty of abuse. 4" would be great if it fits everything in. When loaded, this 6" tube is pretty heavy.
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