Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Sounds like a good solution . Can’t do that here ,plastic grocery bags are banned statewide it’s a good thing . I see less and less bags floating around and tangled up in trees
EXCEPT, that you can go to Walmart and buy all you want of them!! Is that stupid or what!

AND those paper bags they charge you a nickel for, are so thin you have to double them or they tear right out with only a few items in them!

SR
 
I've been dealing with this bag nonsense for several years here in Cali. With the shortage of employees at the grocery stores, I usually end up bagging my own stuff. 9/10 clerks won't charge you for bags if you bag your own stuff.

Either that or I go through self checkout, I don't charge myself for bags in self checkout lol.
 
If you know what to look for? You can see that the female smoke jumper is felling a snag into its lean. Meaning away from, or out from the face. Witch means no wedges required. Some Snags in early stages of decomposition can be extremely light and tough. Therefore more "holding wood" must be relieved to get them to commit. I've had the back cut of snags 24" in diameter broken off half way up the trunk 50 foot high. That were so dry, lite and tough. They were lifted with two or three sets of married wedges. Two and a half, maybe three inches off the stump with only a 3/4" maybe even 1/2" of even hinge (holding wood) across the stump and the snag Stihl didn't commit until I tickled the center of the face with my saw! Lifted 2.5 maybe 3 inches!!! So as far as the "Forest Service People" go? They can tell the professional female smoke jumper who fells standing timber (on fire mind you) for a living! That they don't like her timber felling fundamentals and offer to give her a lesson on it! 😂 Furthermore, The "Forest Service People" need to explain the step in the stump to folks better and in more detail. If you look in the diagram. The "holding wood" is the wood in-between the face cut, and back cut. Stihl "holding" the tree on the stump!!! The hight of your back cut. ☝️ Weather above or below your face cut. Has absolutely nothing to do with your "holding wood". A higher back cut, or "step" creates a safty stop to prevent the tree from sliding or shooting back off the stump. (Stump Shot) Once the hinge or "holding wood" brakes! Thus causing the tree to separate from the stump. That is all the step is for. 😉 I'm Just say'n pardner. 👍

I’m not offended, I would like to know what’s really going on. Thanks for your input.
 
I’m not offended, I would like to know what’s really going on. Thanks for your input.
Glad to hear it! 👍by no means did I want any hard feelings. I was afraid I'd come off a little too stern. I was just stating the facts bud. I definitely wasn't trying to be a know it all . What people think and what people actually know is two different things. We all have our options, and we can take other's opinion's into consideration, or take them like a grain of salt. The information I stated about holding wood is simply FACT! "In my opinion." 😂 However, if any Cutter disagrees?☝️ I would definitely be up to the challenge of an intelligent an respectful argument on the subject. 😉 That being said...

Cuts safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
 
Well the S
The correct terminology for the higher back cut would be "stump shot." It's basically designed as a safety feature to keep the butt of the log from sliding back on the stump once the holding wood breaks. Someone like Kodiak can chime in more, but is mostly used on conventional cuts and where you're worried about the butt coming back on you(steep uphill, cut tree hitting another tree, etc.) With a Humboldt cut, not as much stump shot is necessary, as the physics of the sloping cut is assisting with this.
Well put!
 
Well boy's! Im skiffing over to camp tomorrow early in the am to go to work for a spell. We'll see how the show goes. Hope they at least have internet, so I can keep in touch with you guys and post some pics for y'all as often as I can! 👍
Good luck. Be safe.:chainsaw::chop:
 
Well boy's! Im skiffing over to camp tomorrow early in the am to go to work for a spell. We'll see how the show goes. Hope they at least have internet, so I can keep in touch with you guys and post some pics for y'all as often as I can! 👍
Glad you are getting the work. Exercising you and the saws in what I hope is a very profitable endeavor. Now the important question, what saws are you taking along?
 
I'm lucky to have a 35~40 foot large volume chimney to aid in starting fires. 3 to 4 crumpled newspaper pages and 1 light always gets me going. I make a tunnel with large splits on the bottom and smaller pieces crossed (with cracks) to make the top of the tunnel, alternating this crossing to the top of the stove. One thing that makes a huge difference is to crack open an outside door while starting. After the paper is lit I close the doors but leave one cracked open an inch or 3. Soon it will sound like an oil burner inside and will close the door if not cracked open enough.

P2110093.JPG
 
Glad to hear it! 👍by no means did I want any hard feelings. I was afraid I'd come off a little too stern. I was just stating the facts bud. I definitely wasn't trying to be a know it all . What people think and what people actually know is two different things. We all have our options, and we can take other's opinion's into consideration, or take them like a grain of salt. The information I stated about holding wood is simply FACT! "In my opinion." 😂 However, if any Cutter disagrees?☝️ I would definitely be up to the challenge of an intelligent an respectful argument on the subject. 😉 That being said...

Cuts safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
I agree with what you said 100%.
Well boy's! Im skiffing over to camp tomorrow early in the am to go to work for a spell. We'll see how the show goes. Hope they at least have internet, so I can keep in touch with you guys and post some pics for y'all as often as I can! 👍
:thisthreadisworthlesswithoutpictures:
 
Sounds like the FS is being on the safe side, instead of relying on the individual to size things up.
That's how I hear it, teach a process and not the why :rare2:.
One problem with what they are teaching is when a tree is in the clear and it doesn't need any stump shot, it's harder for a rookie to gauge how thick the hinge is when it's a couple inches above the gunning cut. Much like when someone uses a "sloping back" cut, it's difficult to be as accurate.
There's safety and then there's experience, experience comes when things don't go as planned; and doing things according to the book :reading:, can get you some experience, although most likely less experience than without the book :laugh:.
Stay cool out there guys.
 
See, that's what happens when the price of steel goes up and you recycle all of your old wedges. I had to go out and spend $1300 bucks on a 660 and a couple different bars and an other hundred or so on a mill, just to crack a White Pine in half to make a table for my cabin.
NsEkudh.jpg

WwbNjzA.jpg
I believe I may have to lose my wedges!
 
See, that's what happens when the price of steel goes up and you recycle all of your old wedges. I had to go out and spend $1300 bucks on a 660 and a couple different bars and an other hundred or so on a mill, just to crack a White Pine in half to make a table for my cabin.
NsEkudh.jpg

WwbNjzA.jpg
Nice looking table and walls. My parents had beautiful knotty pine on the walls of the family/dining rooms and when we sold it, I heard the young couple painted it gray. WTF ! Before the sale, my niece did say it was dated:cry:.
 

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