Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

[Kodiak Kid]

Pro safety wrap bar? How do you like it? I wish my 3/4 wrap Stihls had actual full wraps like my 372.

BTW, nice looking saw. The 066 is one of my favorite saws of all time. Good power and exceptionally reliable.

Yes PS Wraps, the older style PS Dawgs and a Stihl OEM Accessory open face muffler cover. Those are the only mods to the saw. The saw has low hours so it Stihl makes that good ol' stock 066 power. It will be a great collectors saw in 20 years, but I'll never sell it.

I agree! IMOP, the 066 is one of the best saws of all time!

I like the PS wraps, but they have there pros and cons. The pros are more versatile positions to run the saw. My favorite thing about them is they are like a roll cage for the saw and will save the saw from getting smashed if you cut to much of your inside corner on your hinge and a tree comes over on your saw. They don't always save a saw from getting smashed, but will, and mote so than stock wraps!
The cons are they add weight to the saw over stock wraps. And they can be really dangerous if you're making a back cut with the cover plate side up because of the the corner of the stiff arm mount where it meets the actual handle.

Let me explain why. If a bigger leaner breaks off pre maturely in the cut and the bar gets stuck in the hinge of the butt of a tree (not the broken hinge on the stump, but the tree itself!) Ad the saw starts to roll forward being as its hung up in the butt. Your hand can get wedged in the corner of the stiff arm and the rubber on the handle before you can let go or even if you let go to late. Now I know it sounds crazy but it can, will and dose happen if you haven't experienced it and don't know about it. I learned the hard way. Fortunately I got my hand loose at the last moment. If not the tree is taking you for a ride along with the saw! It only takes getting your hand caught once to learn not to hold the wrap at that particular part of the handle when the tree commits! Trust me. I know it sounds rediculass and you would think you can just let go, but trust me! You can't! Especially when wearing gloves! I know a few other fallers who stopped running PS full wraps for this particular reason!

Attached is a picture of my left hand in the bite of the wrap handle where it is possible to get hung up if the saw gets hung up in the butt of the tree as it commits. If the tree is well committed and the fall is starting to build speed. The harder it is to get your hand free of the saw! I hope I explained it all well enough to understand bud.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

All this 500i talk inspired me to take the 500i out on today's project of cutting dead trees near a road.

It's small compared to some of the stuff that @Kodiak Kid is cutting, but the biggest tree of this morning's project...Doug fir that was about 3' on the stump before I trimmed the bark. The 32" was a bit short on it. Also a deep face on it, as it was perfectly balanced and the top had me not wanting to pound too hard on wedges.

It's still very low hours, but the 500 is really well. Normally fir is really grabby, but the saw was really ripping through it. It helped that the wood was getting a bit soft...saw dust, not too many chips...and that wasn't because my chain was dull lol.View attachment 1007770View attachment 1007772

Bad ground to work on, the picture was taken at the stump:View attachment 1007771

That fir is Stihl plenty of tree compared to some of our Spruce! Our Spruce max out at 140-150 feet tall, and that would be for a very very tall one and not that common. Average common height for a mature Sitka Spruce on Afognak Island is 110-130 foot.

 

[sean donato]

Yes PS Wraps, the older style PS Dawgs and a Stihl OEM Accessory open face muffler cover. Those are the only mods to the saw. The saw has low hours so it Stihl makes that good ol' stock 066 power. It will be a great collectors saw in 20 years, but I'll never sell it.

I agree! IMOP, the 066 is one of the best saws of all time!

I like the PS wraps, but they have there pros and cons. The pros are more versatile positions to run the saw. My favorite thing about them is they are like a roll cage for the saw and will save the saw from getting smashed if you cut to much of your inside corner on your hinge and a tree comes over on your saw. They don't always save a saw from getting smashed, but will, and mote so than stock wraps!
The cons are they add weight to the saw over stock wraps. And they can be really dangerous if you're making a back cut with the cover plate side up because of the the corner of the stiff arm mount where it meets the actual handle.

Let me explain why. If a bigger leaner breaks off pre maturely in the cut and the bar gets stuck in the hinge of the butt of a tree (not the broken hinge on the stump, but the tree itself!) Ad the saw starts to roll forward being as its hung up in the butt. Your hand can get wedged in the corner of the stiff arm and the rubber on the handle before you can let go or even if you let go to late. Now I know it sounds crazy but it can, will and dose happen if you haven't experienced it and don't know about it. I learned the hard way. Fortunately I got my hand loose at the last moment. If not the tree is taking you for a ride along with the saw! It only takes getting your hand caught once to learn not to hold the wrap at that particular part of the handle when the tree commits! Trust me. I know it sounds rediculass and you would think you can just let go, but trust me! You can't! Especially when wearing gloves! I know a few other fallers who stopped running PS full wraps for this particular reason!

Attached is a picture of my left hand in the bite of the wrap handle where it is possible to get hung up if the saw gets hung up in the butt of the tree as it commits. If the tree is well committed and the fall is starting to build speed. The harder it is to get your hand free of the saw! I hope I explained it all well enough to understand bud.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware! View attachment 1007832

Wouldn't have that problem with a husqy wrap .
Well noted though, I can kinda envision how it would get pontched in there. Definitely doesn't look like fun.

 

[NbyNWisc]

let me put my comment in better context..lol​

​

If you don't eat your fish, you can't have any srounging! How can you have any srounging if you don't eat your fish!”​

We're all just bricks in the wall!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

The aftermarket PS full wraps for Husky will take you for a timber ride too. However, I don't know to many people that buy them for Husky's. Being as they come from the factory with FW bars, and lighter than PS FW bars too. Just not a tough as PS wraps though.

Wouldn't have that problem with a husqy wrap .
Well noted though, I can kinda envision how it would get pontched in there. Definitely doesn't look like fun.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I'm in work. Wife messaged to say that she has lent my petrol hedgecutter to her brother. Now sitting here wondering what condition it will come back in. Could have been worse, could have been a chainsaw.

My Mrs.is under strict instruction that under no circumstance is she to lend out any of my saws! She appreciates my concern too thank god!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Although I never had a problem with fine saw waste getting under the seal of the stock air filter on my 661. I have seen posts on here of others having major issues with fines bypassing the stock filter seal. Probably the biggest reason I never had a problem is because I only put a couple tanks through my 661 before seeing the pictures of the stock 661 filter problems so I installed a Max Flow system.

That being said. I have a question for any of you guys running the Max Flow.

How often do you guys clean your filters?
I clean mine once a week on my one day off after putting about 40 hours on the saw every week. Do you guys think that is frequent enough? The Max Flow system is a far more superior filter system than stock, so Im thinking it is. No noticeable power decrease, change in throttle response or idling issues from fresh and clean on day one, to pretty dirty on day six. I wash the filters with hot soapy water, let stand to air dry, and then oil with Bellray or Yamaha Lube filter oil.

Any input, info, or advice on the subject would be much appreciated gentleman.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[Sierra_rider]

Although I never had a problem with fine saw waste getting under the seal of the stock air filter on my 661. I have seen posts on here of others having major issues with fines bypassing the stock filter seal. Probably the biggest reason I never had a problem is because I only put a couple tanks through my 661 before seeing the pictures of the stock 661 filter problems so I installed a Max Flow system.

That being said. I have a question for any of you guys running the Max Flow.

How often do you guys clean your filters?
I clean mine once a week on my one day off after putting about 40 hours on the saw every week. Do you guys think that is frequent enough. The Max Flow system is a far more superior filter system than stock, so Im thinking it is. No noticeable power decrease, throttle response or idling issues from fresh and clean on day one to pretty dirty on day six. I was the filters with hot soapy water and oil with Bellray or Yamaha Lube filter oil.

Any input, info, or advice on the subject would be much appreciated gentleman.

Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

I run the Max-flows on most of my larger Stihls. I just clean them when the debris is to the point of building up on them. They may look really dirty to some, but no drop in performance and no fines inside the filter, so I think I'm good.

I think some of the Stihl filter issues arise because the pleating on the filter fills up and then the sealing surface becomes the path of least resistance for air flow.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

I run the Max-flows on most of my larger Stihls. I just clean them when the debris is to the point of building up on them. They may look really dirty to some, but no drop in performance and no fines inside the filter, so I think I'm good.

I think some of the Stihl filter issues arise because the pleating on the filter fills up and then the sealing surface becomes the path of least resistance for air flow.

Oh ok, roger. Good point on the path if least resistance!
Also the filter on the 661 isn't secured down with much pressure like the 066 and 660 screw down fastener. The quick connect fastener on the 661 seems to have much less pressure holding the filter down compared to Stihl's previous 90cc series models. Witch would give the filter a much easier path if least resistance once clogged as you just mentioned.

 

[sean donato]

Your most likely cleaning it too often, but it can't really hurt. Foam filters actually filter the best after they get a bit dirty and can hold an amazing amount of dirt before they need cleaned. Basically can run them untill performance starts to suffer or dirt starts to make it through the filter. Although by that time performance would have decreased noticeably.

 

[WoodAbuser]

Morning everyone. Have a great weekend.

 

[farmer steve]

@farmer steve Leaving for Carlisle All truck show tomorrow. Trucks are all packed up .

If anyone is going I’m in vendor spots C40-42 View attachment 1007599View attachment 1007600
I’ll have these two there not towing the 68 out this year
View attachment 1007602View attachment 1007603

Not sure if I'll be going or not. Have fun. Saw lots of older trucks yesterday when I was in The Carlisle area yesterday.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

Your most likely cleaning it too often, but it can't really hurt. Foam filters actually filter the best after they get a bit dirty and can hold an amazing amount of dirt before they need cleaned. Basically can run them untill performance starts to suffer or dirt starts to make it through the filter. Although by that time performance would have decreased noticeably.

Roger, good to know.

 

[Vtrombly]

Managed to get out and get the splitter uncovered. I never really did much besides getting it going and split a couple cords with it. Now it should be about time to give it a little TLC before the season. First off I'm lucky that I had got it home a couple years ago the wheel bearing on the one side the inner bearing is gone so I'll get a set and do both sides. General wiring improvements with a real starting circuit. Relocation of the exhaust to going up instead of the angle bracket mess they have going on. Change the chain drive system to a lovejoy coupler. And finally give my son a project of painting it with some implement paint. I found the model and manufacturer of the ram and parts are available and it seems like a good ram so I'm happy about that

 

[WoodAbuser]

Managed to get out and get the splitter uncovered. I never really did much besides getting it going and split a couple cords with it. Now it should be about time to give it a little TLC before the season. First off I'm lucky that I had got it home a couple years ago the wheel bearing on the one side the inner bearing is gone so I'll get a set and do both sides. General wiring improvements with a real starting circuit. Relocation of the exhaust to going up instead of the angle bracket mess they have going on. Change the chain drive system to a lovejoy coupler. And finally give my son a project of painting it with some implement paint. I found the model and manufacturer of the ram and parts are available and it seems like a good ram so I'm happy about thatView attachment 1007909View attachment 1007910View attachment 1007912

Looks like it has been rode hard and put away wet. Waiting to see the results of the tlc.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

It looks older than me! I bet its split some wood in its day!

 

[Kodiak Kid]

God morning gentlemen!Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!

 

[Vtrombly]

Looks like it has been rode hard and put away wet. Waiting to see the results of the tlc.

It looks older than me! I bet its split some wood in its day!

It was from what I understand a 3 point splitter that was converted to motor power. Seems like it was made with whatever they could make work. I paid less then 100 dollars for it at the time it didn't run at all I figured worse cause scenario I could repower it since I have a boatload of motors around. At this point since it runs I almost feel obligated though to clean up and get that Wisconsin rewired and looking better than it is. I'll get everything else fixed first then probably build a new motor mount plate since I can weld allot better than these guys but the main part of the splitter is good just have to get things a little more mathematically correct.

 

[Kodiak Kid]

It was from what I understand a 3 point splitter that was converted to motor power. Seems like it was made with whatever they could make work. I paid less then 100 dollars for it at the time it didn't run at all I figured worse cause scenario I could repower it since I have a boatload of motors around. At this point since it runs I almost feel obligated though to clean up and get that Wisconsin rewired and looking better than it is. I'll get everything else fixed first then probably build a new motor mount plate since I can weld allot better than these guys but the main part of the splitter is good just have to get things a little more mathematically correct.

Right on man! There's a few home made splitters around my neck of the woods too. My neighbor built one with to light of an I beam. He bent it on the first round! We all told him it was way to light duty for this tougher west coast Spruce! But he wouldn't listen. He thought he was some kind of self taught structural and mechanical engineer. I guess He wasn't!

 

[Saiso]

Rather than firewood this time, I decided to spend a few hours milling. Few pictures here, see milling section for rest