YUP I forgot about that .
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
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Also brother , lynx have much longer legs & larger paws , since they prey more often on snowshoe hares . The Canadian Lynx , also have a little longer black bobbed tail then the very short brown tail of the Bob cat . Bob cats up North here look more like over sized house cats in comparison , however are much more aggressive in disposition . I remember one cold November fall nite around midnite , when too males got into it over a female under a full moon . I thought it was two tasmian devils going at it , around & around the maple & oak leaves swirling between them as they rumbled ...put shivers down your back , erie sight that was
Makes the imagination run into overtime. Gotta get going. Sometime i will tell about one that got hit in town limits on the highway.Also brother , lynx have much longer legs & larger paws , since they prey more often on snowshoe hares . The Canadian Lynx , also have a little longer black bobbed tail then the very short brown tail of the Bob cat . Bob cats up North here look more like over sized house cats in comparison , however are much more aggressive in disposition . I remember one cold November fall nite around midnite , when too males got into it over a female under a full moon . I thought it was two tasmian devils going at it , around & around the maple & oak leaves swirling between them as they rumbled ...put shivers down your back , erie sight that was
Looking forward to it brother !
Saw a bear from the boat while fishing. I prefer to see them from a distance.
Awesome.
Look forward to hearing how it cuts thru the brush
. Funny how the slightest thing can lead to a bunch of pages. I was wondering if you guys think I should continue to run 40:1, been thinking about going to 42.5:1 
.Can you throw a line in the tree and pull it down before you start, that is if you're highly concerned about it.
Actually , i prefer 44:1 ...but ....nah 42.5:1 sounds doable brotherAwesome.
Look forward to hearing how it cuts thru the brush
Can you throw a line in the tree and pull it down before you start, that is if you're highly concerned about it.
I was actually thinking about trying that. The branch is partly broken at the trunk and leaning against another tree. If I can't get it, when I drop that tree, I'm doing it from the other side. I will definitely not be under it when the tree moves.Awesome.
Look forward to hearing how it cuts thru the brush
Can you throw a line in the tree and pull it down before you start, that is if you're highly concerned about it.
Kodiak Kid
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Good on ya!
Do you have a throw ball/bag and a throw line, they are nice to have and I can pull down most any branch of concern(except large ones I know will hit other trees and come back at me) with just the line as it's like 400lb "test".
That's also a nice place for a bore cut with a trigger as it gives you a lot of time to get out of dodge, not that an ash can always be trusted to hold the trigger.
Kodiak Kid
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I talked about snags and their different stages of decomposition a while back. Now I'd like to go a bit more in depth on the subject.
First, let me say without offending anyone here, because there are many different skill levels among us on this forum when it comes to our felling fundamentals! Im not telling anyone what to do or how to do it. I'm simply offering advice and my opinions!
If you are just learning the basics and new to timber felling. I DO NOT! recommend trying to fell moderately to highly decomposed snags! It is always best to call someone with at the very least a decent amount of experience at it. Especially it tight corridors of standing timber!!!
If you do chose to do so. I highly recommend having a friend or neighbor standing by at least a tree length away as a safety watch. Incase things go bad and someone gets hurt!
Now then. The two snags in this pic are in a fairly tight corridor of OG Spruce. Both are approximately 70 to 80 foot tall and about 18" to 20"on the stump.
The snag on the right is moderately decomposed with a limb locked top. The snag on the left is highly decomposed and free standing. However, neither are at the point of crumbling down, but either can easy break in half or loose their tops!
That being said. Never assume anything when dealing with decomposed snags! The core my be more sound than the outer ring of wood and vice versa, or the entire snag may be at an extremely severe stage of decomposition and ready to crumble! IMOP,it is always best to do a standard bore test! If you're not familiar with bore testing? Then snag felling is out of your league! No offense!!!
When boring snags. Use little throttle and pressure when boring in. While at the same time KEEPING YOUR HEAD UP!!!. Trust me if the snag is highly decomposed. You won't need much of either! Often a bore test will tell you how safely it can be fell. If it feels like mulch and paper mache.
It is probably at the worst possible stage of decomposition and ready to crumble! Walk away! Smash it from a distance with a live bigger tree or use heavy equipment if possible. Of course this all depends on the size of the snag also. Now I know that lot of you don't have the luxury of using live timber or heavy equipment when doing tree removal for private land owners, If this is the case. I would suggest discussing your options with the land owner.
Let me say this again so there is no confusion!
Moderately decomposed snags can possibly be felled somewhat safely but are Stihl dangerous.
Severely decomposed snags can possibley be felled, but it can be very dangerous to do so.
Extremely decomposed snags are extremely dangerous to fall and will often crumble or break off the stump with no indications early into your first cut.
That being said. ALL SNAGS ARE DANGEROUS TO FALL! Regardless of the stage of decomposition.
When felling any snag in tight corridors or corridors at all, and when limb locked. Always expect the unexpected! Stand by for the worst possible scenario!
Examples:
Tops breaking off the moment the snag starts to commit if the stag is limb locked.
Breaking off the stump due to rotten or punky holding wood. Resulting in loss of control of the fall.
Buckling in half with the top half coming back at you if the snag strikes another tree. (This will most always happen in tight corridors if the snag breaks off the stump, so NEVER saw to fast! CUT SLOWLY!)
If you're removing several trees when clearing land and come across a limb locked snag. Most often it is best to just cripple the snag with a face cut, back cut and a big hinge and let it go with the tree that it is locked in. However, always face and ONLY FACE the live tree first before crippling the snag so all the live tree needs is a back cut and ready to fell once the limb locked snag is crippled. Never spend more time under a crippled snag than necessary. Or any crippled timber for that matter!
Be completely aware of your surroundings. Think about what your going to do if the snag strikes this tree or that tree, and what direction it is most likely to buckle back if it dose strike any particular tree around you.
Never turn your back. Sometimes all you have to do is step to the side a few feet. Other times you may have to run like a bat out of H**L!
Have at least three escape paths planned out. Cut brush to do so if necessary. Remember, if you lose control of a snag or a live tree, Anything can happen!
Well gentleman. I haven't covered it all because I haven't experienced it all! Nobody has when it comes to timber felling, but I hope I made some since while covering some of the basics when it comes to felling snags!
So until next time....
Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
First, let me say without offending anyone here, because there are many different skill levels among us on this forum when it comes to our felling fundamentals! Im not telling anyone what to do or how to do it. I'm simply offering advice and my opinions! If you are just learning the basics and new to timber felling. I DO NOT! recommend trying to fell moderately to highly decomposed snags! It is always best to call someone with at the very least a decent amount of experience at it.
Especially it tight corridors of standing timber!!! If you do chose to do so. I highly recommend having a friend or neighbor standing by at least a tree length away as a safety watch. Incase things go bad and someone gets hurt!
Now then. The two snags in this pic are in a fairly tight corridor of OG Spruce. Both are approximately 70 to 80 foot tall and about 18" to 20"on the stump.
The snag on the right is moderately decomposed with a limb locked top. The snag on the left is highly decomposed and free standing. However, neither are at the point of crumbling down, but either can easy break in half or loose their tops!That being said. Never assume anything when dealing with decomposed snags! The core my be more sound than the outer ring of wood and vice versa, or the entire snag may be at an extremely severe stage of decomposition and ready to crumble! IMOP,
it is always best to do a standard bore test! If you're not familiar with bore testing? Then snag felling is out of your league! No offense!!!When boring snags. Use little throttle and pressure when boring in. While at the same time KEEPING YOUR HEAD UP!!!. Trust me if the snag is highly decomposed. You won't need much of either! Often a bore test will tell you how safely it can be fell. If it feels like mulch and paper mache.
It is probably at the worst possible stage of decomposition and ready to crumble! Walk away! Smash it from a distance with a live bigger tree or use heavy equipment if possible. Of course this all depends on the size of the snag also. Now I know that lot of you don't have the luxury of using live timber or heavy equipment when doing tree removal for private land owners, If this is the case. I would suggest discussing your options with the land owner. Let me say this again so there is no confusion!
Moderately decomposed snags can possibly be felled somewhat safely but are Stihl dangerous.
Severely decomposed snags can possibley be felled, but it can be very dangerous to do so.
Extremely decomposed snags are extremely dangerous to fall and will often crumble or break off the stump with no indications early into your first cut.
That being said. ALL SNAGS ARE DANGEROUS TO FALL! Regardless of the stage of decomposition.
When felling any snag in tight corridors or corridors at all, and when limb locked.
Always expect the unexpected! Stand by for the worst possible scenario! Examples:
Tops breaking off the moment the snag starts to commit if the stag is limb locked.
Breaking off the stump due to rotten or punky holding wood. Resulting in loss of control of the fall.
Buckling in half with the top half coming back at you if the snag strikes another tree.
(This will most always happen in tight corridors if the snag breaks off the stump, so NEVER saw to fast! CUT SLOWLY!)If you're removing several trees when clearing land and come across a limb locked snag. Most often it is best to just cripple the snag with a face cut, back cut and a big hinge and let it go with the tree that it is locked in.
However, always face and ONLY FACE the live tree first before crippling the snag so all the live tree needs is a back cut and ready to fell once the limb locked snag is crippled. Never spend more time under a crippled snag than necessary. Or any crippled timber for that matter!Be completely aware of your surroundings. Think about what your going to do if the snag strikes this tree or that tree, and what direction it is most likely to buckle back if it dose strike any particular tree around you.
Never turn your back. Sometimes all you have to do is step to the side a few feet. Other times you may have to run like a bat out of H**L!
Have at least three escape paths planned out. Cut brush to do so if necessary. Remember, if you lose control of a snag or a live tree, Anything can happen!
Well gentleman. I haven't covered it all because I haven't experienced it all! Nobody has when it comes to timber felling, but I hope I made some since while covering some of the basics when it comes to felling snags!
So until next time....Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
Thanks for all the info guys. The Ash tree is dead, but still looks to be solid. It is on the edge of a lawn and a narrow strip of trees.
It does not have much (if any) lean to it, so I will not do a trigger. I'll pull the crippled branch off if I can, but it may be too solid.
I plan to tie the tree and pull it with the rope winch and do my cutting from the side opposite of the crippled branch.
(Tie the tree, make my cuts, get on the rope winch and pull it over). I sure as heck don't want to be banging wedges in the back of it!
It does not have much (if any) lean to it, so I will not do a trigger. I'll pull the crippled branch off if I can, but it may be too solid.
I plan to tie the tree and pull it with the rope winch and do my cutting from the side opposite of the crippled branch.
(Tie the tree, make my cuts, get on the rope winch and pull it over). I sure as heck don't want to be banging wedges in the back of it!
Excellent advice & precautionary recommendations , especially the 3 phase escape route scenerio . Snags in general are dicy propositions , add deteriorated integrity & the risk elevates . Buddy system is a very proactive approach whenever possible !I talked about snags and their different stages of decomposition a while back. Now I'd like to go a bit more in depth on the subject.
If you are just learning the basics and new to timber felling. I DO NOT! recommend trying to fell moderately to highly decomposed snags! It is always best to call someone with at the very least a decent amount of experience at it.
If you do chose to do so. I highly recommend having a friend or neighbor standing by at least a tree length away as a safety watch. Incase things go bad and someone gets hurt!
Now then. The two snags in this pic are in a fairly tight corridor of OG Spruce. Both are approximately 70 to 80 foot tall and about 18" to 20"on the stump. View attachment 1014188View attachment 1014187The snag on the right is moderately decomposed with a limb locked top. The snag on the left is highly decomposed and free standing. However, neither are at the point of crumbling down, but either can easy break in half or loose their tops!
That being said. Never assume anything when dealing with decomposed snags! The core my be more sound than the outer ring of wood and vice versa, or the entire snag may be at an extremely severe stage of decomposition and ready to crumble! IMOP,
When boring snags. Use little throttle and pressure when boring in. While at the same time KEEPING YOUR HEAD UP!!!. Trust me if the snag is highly decomposed. You won't need much of either! Often a bore test will tell you how safely it can be fell. If it feels like mulch and paper mache.
Let me say this again so there is no confusion!
Moderately decomposed snags can possibly be felled somewhat safely but are Stihl dangerous.
Severely decomposed snags can possibley be felled, but it can be very dangerous to do so.
Extremely decomposed snags are extremely dangerous to fall and will often crumble or break off the stump with no indications early into your first cut.
That being said. ALL SNAGS ARE DANGEROUS TO FALL! Regardless of the stage of decomposition.
When felling any snag in tight corridors or corridors at all, and when limb locked.
Examples:
Tops breaking off the moment the snag starts to commit if the stag is limb locked.
Breaking off the stump due to rotten or punky holding wood. Resulting in loss of control of the fall.
Buckling in half with the top half coming back at you if the snag strikes another tree.
If you're removing several trees when clearing land and come across a limb locked snag. Most often it is best to just cripple the snag with a face cut, back cut and a big hinge and let it go with the tree that it is locked in.
Be completely aware of your surroundings. Think about what your going to do if the snag strikes this tree or that tree, and what direction it is most likely to buckle back if it dose strike any particular tree around you.
Never turn your back. Sometimes all you have to do is step to the side a few feet. Other times you may have to run like a bat out of H**L!
Have at least three escape paths planned out. Cut brush to do so if necessary. Remember, if you lose control of a snag or a live tree, Anything can happen!
Well gentleman. I haven't covered it all because I haven't experienced it all! Nobody has when it comes to timber felling, but I hope I made some since while covering some of the basics when it comes to felling snags!
Cut safe, stay sharp, and be aware!
Just spent eleven nights at our mountain place, and am 28 pages behind.
I’ve gotten bad about remembering to take firewood pictures. This is the only one I got, the first of two loads we took to our friend’s store.
Some of you might remember this picture taken May 2nd, when I said I needed to make water tank access through here.
I tried to get a shot from the same spot, but it’s hard when the landscape changes. It’s close anyway. The broken off tree in the top picture, we pulled out of the ground with the loader.
I tried to get a shot from the same spot, but it’s hard when the landscape changes. It’s close anyway. The broken off tree in the top picture, we pulled out of the ground with the loader.
JustPlainJeff
ArboristSite Operative
Wow. Nice progress!
Here’s some really serious felling. I wouldn’t like to be driving the excavator.
https://www.staradvertiser.com/2022...down-soviet-era-monuments-obelisk-in-capital/
https://www.staradvertiser.com/2022...down-soviet-era-monuments-obelisk-in-capital/
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