There aren't any from Ford or Dodge........So I’m looking at beater trucks from late 90’s and early 00’s. What are a few of the best V8 gassers from Dodge, Chevy, GMC, or Ford?
There aren't any good ones from dodge, chevy or gmc. Just ask me and I'll tell ya. Ford trucks and Stihl chainsaws are all u need.So I’m looking at beater trucks from late 90’s and early 00’s. What are a few of the best V8 gassers from Dodge, Chevy, GMC, or Ford?
That’s what I’m reading. Salt is the killer.There aren't any good ones from dodge, chevy or gmc. Just ask me and I'll tell ya. Ford trucks and Stihl chainsaws are all u need.
Yeah, if you live in the dang rust belt ur screwed.That’s what I’m reading. Salt is the killer.
IMO, the vortec/ls GM motors are the best gas v8s of that time period. I thought the 5.3s we used to have in the work trucks were good motors, decent power for their displacement. The 6.0 has a very good reputation as well, I'm 1/2 tempted to buy a used 6.0 to swap into my 72 k20.So I’m looking at beater trucks from late 90’s and early 00’s. What are a few of the best V8 gassers from Dodge, Chevy, GMC, or Ford?
Only cause u hover around 3 weeks behind.
Rust is the enemy! I have owned more trucks than I can count over the last 50 years. Fords, Toyotas, Datsuns, Nissans, Dodges and Chevys. They all more than earned their keep. However the ones that needed the least repairs and rusted less than most of the others were multiple Ford F250's. All but one 1976 Toyota were purchased used. Many were trucks that were owned by businesses that were employee abused. I remember one '96 F250 I bought had so much caulk on the seat I threw it out and got another from the junk yard. That same truck had so much mud and sunflower seed hulls on the floor it took almost an hour with a pressure washer to get down to the vinyl floor covering. That truck lasted me 14 years and as far as I know it is still on the road.That’s what I’m reading. Salt is the killer.
Didn't anybody tell you not to use 3 in 1 oil in your engine? Sewing machine oil for the win!I’ve put over 325,000 miles on 5.3 and about 250k on another so can attest that they will last.
The biggest issue I had was the port for the oil pressure sending unit would get plugged with gunk and then the sending unit would not read adequate pressure and the alarm will go off. Mind you, I did change oil routinely.
GM, all day long. I had a 2004 Silverado with a 5.3, a 2003 Tahoe with a 4.8, and a 1998 C1500 with a 4.3. All of them were rock solid.So I’m looking at beater trucks from late 90’s and early 00’s. What are a few of the best V8 gassers from Dodge, Chevy, GMC, or Ford?
Looks like that place has mostly gone to the dogs too.Couple more from today. Fly home tomorrow
Sadly, my next business trip is in September and to Dallas. Nothing as slick as this tripView attachment 1067769View attachment 1067768View attachment 1067767
No thanks, gas guzzling 2 port, the quad port cylinders are much more efficient.How about a 272xp piston and jug instead.
Figured it was, but I've not heard of anyone doing it yet. The popup is easy, just remove a mm off the top to just inside the squish band and it's done. It gives the proper height to achieve good compression and power, without the difficulty starting that a higher compression saw usually has.Squareground already mentioned it, but yeah a domed 268 piston is a possibility. Really any piston is doable as long as there is enough material above the top ring groove.
At this point, I'd expect to know a little about porting and machining...I've thrown enough time and money at it. Even outside of the saws, I don't even remember how I lived before getting a lathe and a mill. They're really handy tools to have. I had no idea what I was missing out on until I got them.
For anyone that's interested in getting into modding saws, choose a saw that's easy to assemble/disassemble and has generous aftermarket support. Then buy about a dozen el cheapo chinesium cylinders and get to grinding. You won't unlock the true potential without machining capabilities, but there is a lot to be gained from working over the ports.
What's tight on them.BTW, did you check the squish after pulling the gasket? I'd have to go back and read my notes, but I remember my 400 being a little on the tight side for doing a base gasket delete.
I've had no problems with most them, but the newer 271/291s can be a bit stingy on oiling the bar/chain.I have both pro and farm Stihls. I have found that even the 2nd tier farm saws kick husky @ss.
No thanks, gas guzzling 2 port, the quad port cylinders are much more efficient.
I'm sure someone could utilize one to make more power, heck Joe put one on a 357, but fuel economy does matter when it comes to maximizing your average cut time.
The only thing about doing a domed/tapered piston, is not getting too greedy and leaving the crown weak above the top ring land. I bump up the compression on virtually every saw with machining...to what degree depends on the saw. I often go with taller exhaust ports along with a smaller/tighter combustion chamber, the side benefit of that is that the added starting difficulty is negligible. That being said, I do have a couple of hard starters....my 066 has machine work done to it, as well as the timing advanced...OSHA-approved starting methods are just asking for your shoulder to be dislocated.Figured it was, but I've not heard of anyone doing it yet. The popup is easy, just remove a mm off the top to just inside the squish band and it's done. It gives the proper height to achieve good compression and power, without the difficulty starting that a higher compression saw usually has.
What's tight on them.
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