I will hold my comments ... they may not be politically correct!The kids like it a little backwards these days.....
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I will hold my comments ... they may not be politically correct!The kids like it a little backwards these days.....
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Happy birthday! Nice present!Happy 30th birthday to me! View attachment 1217700
Happy birthday .Happy 30th birthday to me! View attachment 1217700
My Country Clipper had a joystick. You could certainly drink a beer while mowing on that one.Happy birthday .
Nice assault crocks .
Sweet mower too, they sure help get the lawn mowed quickly. Many guys don't like them, because it makes it hard to drink a beer while mowing, for that I'd say get a hydration pack .
Enjoy your day.
Happy Birthday and a nice gift.Happy 30th birthday to me! View attachment 1217700
Nice, not an option I need, but I know someone will find that info crucial! .My Country Clipper had a joystick. You could certainly drink a beer while mowing on that one.
I don't have a source of BL like you do, so I'll have to buy PT 6x6s. The shed will be either 10x12 or 10x16. I was planning on 2' deep post holes topped with concrete tops to get to grade and then placing three 6x6s on 5' centers for the joists to ride on. Maybe 2x6s or 2x8s with 3/4 OSB on top. May be overkill and I don't like the idea of more post holes than just 4 to plumb up. I might be storing milled lumber in it and I don't want the floor to sag. I'm still in the planning stages.Find some black locust to build it on. Depending on the size 2x6 with a 3/4" OSB floor is fine. I used 2x8 with 3/4 tongue and groove OSB for a 10x12 with the 2x8 spanning the 10', it's held up great even with my zero-turn mowers in it.
I'm getting ready to build a chicken coop, 7-8 or 8x10. I already have 4 locust logs vertical in the ground from the current coop, I'll probably use those to build off of, but I'll probably add two more further out as the current coop is 4x8. I'll be using all 2x6 for the base as it will not have any weight in it.
Yep. I had similar last month, but it was the nearest stack to the OWB and time to fire it up for the year, so I just burned it instead of having to restack it.Arrrrh.... Don't you just hate it when this happens?
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That was the last of the mulberry I just split last month. Going to try to get it restacked before the noon rain starts. I have more garden work to do this week before my duck season starts next Saturday and I certainly don't have the time to re-do things.
2x8 joists yes, spaced 16" on centre. 8 foot span where the joists sit on the 6x6's. Would be plenty solid for for anything that you would normally store in a shed. Unless we're talking about a functioning hot tub or a car lol...I'm thinking of building a shed on 6x6s to avoid taxes on a platform similar to your deck. Are those 2x8 joists? What's the span of the 6x6s? Mine will be for lawnmowers and garden equipment.
I'm no engineer, but that will probably support a bulldozer, if the door's big enough.2x8 joists yes, spaced 16" on centre. 8 foot span where the joists sit on the 6x6's. Would be plenty solid for for anything that you would normally store in a shed. Unless we're talking about a functioning hot tub or a car lol...
I'm gonna need to see pictures, or have your kid draw it up with some crayons for me . That white oak will probably last longer than the PT. Most people don't know there are a lots different types of treated wood, kinda like shrimp , gotta get the right type or you would be better off using white oak from a mill, just want to let it season first.I went with 2' centers 2x6 (its mostly rough cut white oak) on the little room next to the shop. 10'x16' joist run the short way, fully supported by the pad of the shop on one end, joist hangers, sistered joists on the front, back and 2 centered joists where the posts go down through. Both ends uses pt 6x6, the end twards the wood shed has 2 6x6 sistered since it's supporting the roof of the room+ the main 4x12 beam for the wood shed side. The middle posts in the room side are pt4x6. Outer 6x6's sit on 12" concrete pillars 4' in the ground, center 4x6 sit on 8" concrete pillars 4' in the ground. 1
Topped with 1" white oak boards. Plenty enough for any weight I can throw in a "man cave" room.
What do you mean "2' deep holes topped with concrete tops", what's in the rest of the hole. That's where you could just stand a BL round/log up in the hole and cut it off at the height you need. I can't see it being that hard to source 20' of 8" locust sticks to make 6 three foot round posts, rather than 4, my opinion. Put an add on fascistbook or Craigslist, I'd rather use that than 6x6 PT, and since you're still planning, you have plenty of time. For a building that size that you plan on putting weight in, I'd probably use concrete patties in the bottom of the hole, and I'd do what I could to only disturb the dirt I was removing so the patties were sitting on compacted soil.I don't have a source of BL like you do, so I'll have to buy PT 6x6s. The shed will be either 10x12 or 10x16. I was planning on 2' deep post holes topped with concrete tops to get to grade and then placing three 6x6s on 5' centers for the joists to ride on. Maybe 2x6s or 2x8s with 3/4 OSB on top. May be overkill and I don't like the idea of more post holes than just 4 to plumb up. I might be storing milled lumber in it and I don't want the floor to sag. I'm still in the planning stages.
If I had enough oak, I would have built it completely out of it. I did get ground contact rated pt, and after everything was in place treated it with Copper green wood preservative. I don't think I took any pictures after I added the sister joists, before it got enclosed/insulated. The bottom side is lined with tin, holes spray formed closed, then sealed with roofing tar, then 4" of insulation, then the 1" white oak boards top it. The ledgers and front and rear joists are completely covered too. So besides the posts that stick out 6ish inches bellow the floor and rest on the concrete pillars, there's very slim chance of moisture getting to any of that wood. The rear ledger, sits on top of the concrete pad for the shop, so fully supported. I did seal the concrete before hand in the hopes of preventing moisture tearful through the pad to the wood Everything was fastened with head-lok structural fasteners and structural screws for the joist hangers. Tried my best to over kill it. I really don't want to have to redo that section in 20 years. Has a good air gap under it so hopefully any ground moisture will have ample air circulation to dry out quickly. You can kinda see how i did the posts here.I'm gonna need to see pictures, or have your kid draw it up with some crayons for me . That white oak will probably last longer than the PT. Most people don't know there are a lots different types of treated wood, kinda like shrimp , gotta get the right type or you would be better off using white oak from a mill, just want to let it season first.
Did you guys use any wood on the deck of your buddies trailer, or does everything ride on metal bunks. I'd have like to see pics of that project, sounds like quite the job you two did.
Even if it is disturbed, it not too much effort to take a digging iron and compact the hole bottom + add a bit of stone to the bottom while he's at it. Had to do that with a few of my post holes I went too deep on. I just used concrete till I was above the ground line.What do you mean "2' deep holes topped with concrete tops", what's in the rest of the hole. That's where you could just stand a BL round/log up in the hole and cut it off at the height you need. I can't see it being that hard to source 20' of 8" locust sticks to make 6 three foot round posts, rather than 4, my opinion. Put an add on fascistbook or Craigslist, I'd rather use that than 6x6 PT, and since you're still planning, you have plenty of time. For a building that size that you plan on putting weight in, I'd probably use concrete patties in the bottom of the hole, and I'd do what I could to only disturb the dirt I was removing so the patties were sitting on compacted soil.
I'll see if I can find some pictures of what I've done with my coop and the barn, not sure I kept them all, but I know I took some.
Yea, sorry, I need to clarify a bit. First, the shed cannot be built into the ground. That would be too easy. It has to set freely on top of the ground or would be taxable. And my property taxes, like all of you, are high enough already. The ground slopes downhill by a foot to a foot and a half depending on the length (12' or 16').What do you mean "2' deep holes topped with concrete tops", what's in the rest of the hole. That's where you could just stand a BL round/log up in the hole and cut it off at the height you need. I can't see it being that hard to source 20' of 8" locust sticks to make 6 three foot round posts, rather than 4, my opinion. Put an add on fascistbook or Craigslist, I'd rather use that than 6x6 PT, and since you're still planning, you have plenty of time. For a building that size that you plan on putting weight in, I'd probably use concrete patties in the bottom of the hole, and I'd do what I could to only disturb the dirt I was removing so the patties were sitting on compacted soil.
I'll see if I can find some pictures of what I've done with my coop and the barn, not sure I kept them all, but I know I took some.
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