Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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A 10 mm 044 KS jug will run with most 460s, but porting really wakes those 460s up, it is a whole different saw!

The reason I always preferred a 390/406/427 Ford to the 428 (all are FE block) is because the 428 has a longer stroke, and is externally balanced. They did not stand up to abuse as well as the other motors, and I abused everything! Also, some of the 406 & 427s were available with cross bolted mains, not an option on a 428! The 428 was designed for street use, then modified (with the CJ heads) to make it perform. The 406 & 427 were specifically built for racing. FYI, the reason they did not put a 427 Medium Riser head on a 428 is because the valves would not fit in the smaller bore, so they used 427 low riser valves & combustion chamber (smaller) and 427 medium riser ports (taller than the low riser) and that is a 428 CJ head.

My friend has a 441 C, and he love it. He keeps promising to let me try it some time, but it has not happened yet.
 
Actually, when I have watched, they were using a series of 3 pans and moving the sap/syrup from pan to pan as it got closer to being finished. When I was watching and asking how it was done the answer about finishing was to go out that day and boil some water to determine the boiling point for that day's weather conditions (high or low pressure conditions, elevation, etc.) The end point was a certain number of degrees above that value and a very accurate thermometer was being used. Sugar, like any impurity, adds to the boiling point of water, so a very accurate end point could be determined by temperature, more accurate than a hygrometer. It would have been sacrilege to just assume 212ºF as the boiling point in his opinion.

I could never have imagined the end temps so important... would have thot just boiled down to a certain consistany, maybe cked w/hydrometer... interesting. thanks!
 
Silly boy, why would you bring a car to a bike race lol.
That is a place i would just grab something up from downstairs;), if the wife said ok. It's amazing what a 750cc GSXR does to "almost" any street car around.
Funny you liked the 406. The last engine I built I did was a stock internals(except pistons) 406 Chevy. It was a long rod 400, which is a 400 small block with a 400 crank and 350 rods (5.7" rods).
I was always a Pontiac and Chevy guy, but I'm not opposed to a ford(small f lol), and like them even better with a chevy engine in them:yes:
If I had to choose one of the older ones it would be a 428cj in a 69 fastback or a cobra:sweet:.
The new stangs kick tail too if we were talking new.
Here in Michigan we like our American rides. Although if I was to build anything these days it would be have a Japanese flavor in the 2.5 liter range with a turbo, I'm sure you know what that is. It's awesome what an all wheel drive does out of the hole, and what fun to drift.
There's no feeling like having your eyeballs sucked into your head and you vision blurred because of it:surprised3:


> but I'm not opposed to a ford(small f lol), and like them even better with a chevy engine in them:yes:

here, here!!!! old vintage ford tin... and a sbc, for sure. :rock: 283 and on up... '30 A roadster steel pickup and a 'stuffed' 327... 4-speed... 'cerca 1963...so nice. hi test ethyl 28-cents a gallon... 'drink' all you want... 30 A roadster just as an example... for an awesome ride with 'total curb appeal'... an early ford, roadsters preferred and a BB Chevy always got my attention!! seems to me ol Henry made all them old Fords 'cause he maybe had an inclination that Chevrolet was going to come out with an OHV V8 in 1955! lol... ;)

you can read about it all today, even see many at the car shows... but unless you were a kid, young adult in the time period of preMuscle and Muscle car era... and the ensuing hot rods... you just cannot fathom how much fun it was... barking gears was as common as the next green light!!! lol

next to the 'vettes, chevelles and chevy II's... a 4-speed tri-power GTO, 1966, 67.... as an example... was one tire burning, sideways sliding 'short'... and I never got tired of them... :)
 
Found a picture of my 084 that I used for the Alaskan mill. I need to throw this and a couple of modded 404 bars changed to 3/8 for a thinner kerf. That would be great to fund another firewood saw. I am lusting over the Mastermind 064 that is listed in the for sale area
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New084.jpg
 
That surprises me, especially the walnut. A long time ago I carved wood and walnut was my favorite. I power carved some and found the walnut dust to be almost toxic when breathed. I never researched the syrup process because there isn't enough sugar maple available around here. I have always felt there is a good chance the cure for some of the bad diseases will be found in nature (some say it already has), but then who could make a lot of money from it?
Walnut dust can be very bad for many individuals, and give pneumonia like symptoms.
This is a known problem so I have read amongst the guys who mill it, and many wear respirators when working with it:baba:
I'd like to try some of the walnut syrup though:sweet:
 
Speaking of saws. I watched a guy once noodle a big ole round with a 660 and a 24" bar. Lets just say it looked easy. I turned around and he was done. All I could think was I would have been there for what seemed like 10 minutes with my 50cc saw and it would have jammed up with noodles 3 or 4 times. I must have a "defective" stihl. I kid, I kid... I got enough big rounds in the last scrounge that I may sacrifice one and tune the 365 with a 20" bar finally..
 
Walnut dust can be very bad for many individuals, and give pneumonia like symptoms.
This is a known problem so I have read amongst the guys who mill it, and many wear respirators when working with it:baba:
I'd like to try some of the walnut syrup though:sweet:

I'm glad the walnut doesn't bother me. I seem to get quite a bit of it.
 
View attachment 483273 I may be getting older but I can still spot safety problems. This guy has no hard hat, no gloves, no eye or ear protection. PPE people, HELLO!

i think i read it on this thread that someone posted that the 028 WB with the WB in red letters was more desirable. Dancan maybe?
I think I remember reading the same thing.
I'm pretty sure the one above is an ms170, but it's sure to have MS in red shortly;)
Although I'm not sure it will make it any more desirable.
 
I'm glad the walnut doesn't bother me. I seem to get quite a bit of it.
My understanding is that it would need to be dry and lots of fumes, many times people mill in a much less ventilated area than we normally cut in.

I still have never smelled anything worse and made me feel as though I needed to stop or I would be having to use my asthma inhaler like the hard maple I was cutting a couple months ago for a buddy.
I have had similar problems with some of the locust out back of my place that was covered in vines, not sure what they are, but I could tell my body didn't like that stuff.
 
Found a picture of my 084 that I used for the Alaskan mill. I need to throw this and a couple of modded 404 bars changed to 3/8 for a thinner kerf. That would be great to fund another firewood saw. I am lusting over the Mastermind 064 that is listed in the for sale area
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New084.jpg
Have you considered Pming him and seeing if he has any interest or knows anyone who does.
Just might be able to make a deal:)
 
My understanding is that it would need to be dry and lots of fumes, many times people mill in a much less ventilated area than we normally cut in.

I still have never smelled anything worse and made me feel as though I needed to stop or I would be having to use my asthma inhaler like the hard maple I was cutting a couple months ago for a buddy.
I have had similar problems with some of the locust out back of my place that was covered in vines, not sure what they are, but I could tell my body didn't like that stuff.
I have had asthma attacks cutting alder brush (a swamp loving, piss smelling bush that I do not believe is related to alder or elder trees). Nasty stuff.
 
A 10 mm 044 KS jug will run with most 460s, but porting really wakes those 460s up, it is a whole different saw!

The reason I always preferred a 390/406/427 Ford to the 428 (all are FE block) is because the 428 has a longer stroke, and is externally balanced. They did not stand up to abuse as well as the other motors, and I abused everything! Also, some of the 406 & 427s were available with cross bolted mains, not an option on a 428! The 428 was designed for street use, then modified (with the CJ heads) to make it perform. The 406 & 427 were specifically built for racing. FYI, the reason they did not put a 427 Medium Riser head on a 428 is because the valves would not fit in the smaller bore, so they used 427 low riser valves & combustion chamber (smaller) and 427 medium riser ports (taller than the low riser) and that is a 428 CJ head.

My friend has a 441 C, and he love it. He keeps promising to let me try it some time, but it has not happened yet.
One of the reasons I built the 406 was it was a 509 casting block which is one of the best for the build. It was built to be 450hp and 450ftlbs.
It ran 445 ftlbs at 4600rpm's which was a little more than I knew what to do with. I built it for a 72 chevelle ss clone I had. I had done zero mods to the suspension and it was pretty stupid to drive. With the stock gears it would send you sideways out of control at 35mph, when it hit the stall converter 100% at 4500rpm's.
Woops, back to the reason lol.
The block was a 2 bolt main which I could modify(send out) to have splayed 4 bolt mains and it would be way stronger than the standard 4 bolt blocks.
With the stock 2 bolts guys run that build up to 600hp and take it up to 1000hp with the splayed 4 bolts.

I actually prefer a little shorter intake runners than most, it's a torque vs rpm/hp thing I would say. It also makes tuning a bit easier and a lower idle unless you have a roller cam and that can help with that.
The argument makes sense to me though in regards to the Fords and I certainly won't argue Ford builds with a Ford guy:D
 
Wolf, glad you are enjoying that saw, but snug that chain up before you either loose it or ruin your bar.

I had loosened it to swap for a new chain so I could sharpen that one. It was just a "beauty" shot for svk I had already finished cutting. I had a buddy trash a chain on my stihl from being too loose so I check it all the time now.
 
If I had access to decent sized sugar maples I would definitely do it. But I only have red maples as do most of my neighbors. One has a Norway maple but it isn't very big so probably wouldn't produce much.

I used to think the same thing until a farm making syrup told me any old maple will work, just may be 50-1 vs. 40-1. I decided to tap my swamp maple last year and it was fun. I did loose my first batch to the fire, wasn't watching it well and burned it. But I will do it again this spring. I know this is a warm winter but isn't it early to be sugaring? I am afraid of hurting the tree, taking sap so soon
 
Well I got the firewood to the processing area. Plus I didn't get stuck. But I tried hard to get it stuck. I miss judged the snow and there was slushy ice under the snow. Lots of shoveling and some 8' pieces of plywood scraps later the truck is back in the driveway. I will get pictures of the carnage tomorrow.
 
How do you drive by a nice previously dead standing 32-36" ash stem laying beside a driveway, you don't :sweet:

Ok guys this was a nice find, now to execute the bucking, splitting, loading, unloading, and taking pictures of it for you all:chainsaw::chop::cry:(thats me sweating because I'm haveing to do something "like work":laugh:.
It's right on the top of a pretty steep little hill. I was thinking of making most ove my top bucking cuts just as it is and the rope over the top to my truck and roll it onto the other side to finish my cuts. I will probably need to get the big branch and maybe even the big crotch where it connects to the stem on the left side before I can roll it though. I am going to try to get there tomorrow to asses the site better, and for the first load. 20160202_140442.jpg
 
How do you drive by a nice previously dead standing 32-36" ash stem laying beside a driveway, you don't :sweet:

Ok guys this was a nice find, now to execute the bucking, splitting, loading, unloading, and taking pictures of it for you all:chainsaw::chop::cry:(thats me sweating because I'm haveing to do something "like work":laugh:.
It's right on the top of a pretty steep little hill. I was thinking of making most ove my top bucking cuts just as it is and the rope over the top to my truck and roll it onto the other side to finish my cuts. I will probably need to get the big branch and maybe even the big crotch where it connects to the stem on the left side before I can roll it though. I am going to try to get there tomorrow to asses the site better, and for the first load. View attachment 483546
don't forget the nice Zogger wood in the brush piles.looks like some nice size limb wood in there.
 
How do you drive by a nice previously dead standing 32-36" ash stem laying beside a driveway, you don't :sweet:

Ok guys this was a nice find, now to execute the bucking, splitting, loading, unloading, and taking pictures of it for you all:chainsaw::chop::cry:(thats me sweating because I'm haveing to do something "like work":laugh:.
It's right on the top of a pretty steep little hill. I was thinking of making most ove my top bucking cuts just as it is and the rope over the top to my truck and roll it onto the other side to finish my cuts. I will probably need to get the big branch and maybe even the big crotch where it connects to the stem on the left side before I can roll it though. I am going to try to get there tomorrow to asses the site better, and for the first load. View attachment 483546
That looks like that tree will need 2-3 cups of coffee to properly assess what to do. You dont want any of the rounds to roll over that hill. It looks like a steep bugger. Is there a road running behind and down the hill from where you will be cutting?
 

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