Bought a real clean zero rust bed for the Dodge today and it’s even grey like mine but it’s a little darker as it’s from an 08 and mine is a 07 but I can live with that . Came with the gate and the bumper . 
Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)
- Thread starter mainewoods
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
That color pops big time!
Winter Browns from the Thompson river
9/23
12/21
12/21
I saw what I thought was a dip in the string. I don't want to pull it any tighter, I broke it doing that the other day. So I got out the surveyors transit, there is a dip in the string. It's really close using the transit. Checked the bunks the same way, they vary 3/16". Not just one to the next, but also side to side. You mentioned shimming under the stainless bunk caps, I can get some small squarestock to use as shims. I'm also considering loosening the angle bracket bolts, so I can move the whole bunk. That's all for today, its getting dark.
Sawyer Rob
Addicted to ArboristSite
Looks like you are getting it...
You can make shims from beer or pop cans too and try to get it as close as you can, it will be worth it in the long run.
SR
MechanicMatt
Cut Split Stack Burn
Mark, he has a SBC torn down in his garage
His brother said it lost oil pressure, when he pulled the pan guess what he found…
He has a 3500 Cummins with a plow he is looking to move along too….
benz66
Used to sell firewood for $5 a face cord, deliverd
Yes, those at HD were Ideal brand. Should be a good US brand but probably made in the land of CCP. The ones i first used with the chinee lights were made of pure chinesium. (not branded). The ideal ones should be good, but I have nooot used them.
And that beautiful Nova has slapper traction bars on leaf springs ... well, they worked well on my 70 Boss with the 427 Ford in it, so he should be OK!
Dang…fish are starvin’!
Pops harder than red, green that is. That's one of the many reasons I prefer optics with a green "reticle" over red.
I was wondering about that muffler, looks like a single inlet muffler, is there another under the vehicle towards the crossmember.
Looks like a sweet ride regardless, I'd be seen in it.
For those who are too young to know (we all used to know) the welded ladder traction bars were supposed to be the way to go, but I did not want to have traction bars welded onto my 70 Boss Mustang, so I went with the bolt on slapper traction bars. (mine were Mr. Gasket)
I had lost 3 races before installing them but never lost another race after I put them on, so they got the job done!
The slapper bars bolted on to the four bolts that held the leaf spring to the axel and had an adjustable rubber snubber in the front. You could adjust the rubber snubber, so it did not contact until the axel started to twist (under hard acceleration), hence the term "slapper". As your axel tried to twist, the traction bar would press your axel into the pavement increasing your traction. The welded traction bars would also prevent the axel from getting out of alignment, which the slapper bars would not do.
There was a lot of debate about whether the traction bars would degrade your handling, but I never noticed any problem with them.
You can barely see the yellow traction bar in front of the rear wheel in the upper right-hand picture. The mags were Keystone wrapped with BFG Radial TAs, G-60-15.
My car was not only strong in the 1/4 mile but also handled very well. The FE ford engines were the lightest big blocks out there, and they had very wide intake manifolds (the push rods went through the intake manifold), so replacing the intake with an aluminum one resulted in a great power to weight ratio for its day.
While aftermarket pistons were available, there were no aftermarket cranks or rods, and new pistons would require re-balancing the entire engine. Aluminum heads were also NA at the time. (At least not that the average person could afford)
My 427 had an Edelbrock aluminum dual plane intake, 850 Holley double pumper carb, Hooker Headers, TRW double roller timing chain, and Mallory photocell electronic ignition. Also had the Ford 427 solid lifter cam and a Hurst T handle shifter and a K&N air filter.
I had lost 3 races before installing them but never lost another race after I put them on, so they got the job done!
The slapper bars bolted on to the four bolts that held the leaf spring to the axel and had an adjustable rubber snubber in the front. You could adjust the rubber snubber, so it did not contact until the axel started to twist (under hard acceleration), hence the term "slapper". As your axel tried to twist, the traction bar would press your axel into the pavement increasing your traction. The welded traction bars would also prevent the axel from getting out of alignment, which the slapper bars would not do.
There was a lot of debate about whether the traction bars would degrade your handling, but I never noticed any problem with them.
You can barely see the yellow traction bar in front of the rear wheel in the upper right-hand picture. The mags were Keystone wrapped with BFG Radial TAs, G-60-15.
My car was not only strong in the 1/4 mile but also handled very well. The FE ford engines were the lightest big blocks out there, and they had very wide intake manifolds (the push rods went through the intake manifold), so replacing the intake with an aluminum one resulted in a great power to weight ratio for its day.
While aftermarket pistons were available, there were no aftermarket cranks or rods, and new pistons would require re-balancing the entire engine. Aluminum heads were also NA at the time. (At least not that the average person could afford)
My 427 had an Edelbrock aluminum dual plane intake, 850 Holley double pumper carb, Hooker Headers, TRW double roller timing chain, and Mallory photocell electronic ignition. Also had the Ford 427 solid lifter cam and a Hurst T handle shifter and a K&N air filter.
Attachments
I had the same yellow bars on my pinto station wagon Mike.
Someday I'll find those pics.
A former co-worker of mine in the late ‘70s had slapper type on his Pinto also… 302 Boss under the hood. There are photos on his web page.I had the same yellow bars on my pinto station wagon Mike.
http://kropf.us/TinyBoss/
I only paid $800 for the 70 Boss 302 (the engine had spun bearings for the 2nd time) and purchased my 427 Ford short block for $300.
My block had low riser pistons, so I ran 428 CJ heads on it (they have the same combustion chamber and valves as a low riser, but medium riser ports). Real 427 heads were not easily available, and to run medium or high riser heads (which have larger combustion chambers and valves) would have required pop up pistons.
They worked very well on a street motor. (Note: All of the GT500 Mustangs [except the KRs] had 390 heads and ran like dogs.) It was stupid to put 2 - 4s on them when they would have trouble with a good sized single 4bbl. It was done to fool people into thinking they were getting the motor that Shelby put in the 427 AC Cobras.
I later sold the Boss 302 heads for $300 to someone who was restoring one.
I always wanted to find and Race a Boss 429, but they were too hard to find. The 429 engines had a very large bore and too much bore spacing. Since none of the cars were redesigned for them, it resulted in too much weight in front of the front axle. As a result, they could not launch or handle as well. It is why (in 1969) half the stock car racers with Talladega's ripped their Boss 9s out and replaced them with their old 427s.
My block had low riser pistons, so I ran 428 CJ heads on it (they have the same combustion chamber and valves as a low riser, but medium riser ports). Real 427 heads were not easily available, and to run medium or high riser heads (which have larger combustion chambers and valves) would have required pop up pistons.
They worked very well on a street motor. (Note: All of the GT500 Mustangs [except the KRs] had 390 heads and ran like dogs.) It was stupid to put 2 - 4s on them when they would have trouble with a good sized single 4bbl. It was done to fool people into thinking they were getting the motor that Shelby put in the 427 AC Cobras.
I later sold the Boss 302 heads for $300 to someone who was restoring one.
I always wanted to find and Race a Boss 429, but they were too hard to find. The 429 engines had a very large bore and too much bore spacing. Since none of the cars were redesigned for them, it resulted in too much weight in front of the front axle. As a result, they could not launch or handle as well. It is why (in 1969) half the stock car racers with Talladega's ripped their Boss 9s out and replaced them with their old 427s.
Similar threads
Want to Sell
4 free saws
