Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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When I put my F-150 in 4wd low range it automatically shuts off the traction control.
My previous Audi Quattro did much better climbing hills in the snow with the traction control shut off.
It looks like you may be right on the Ford and others use of brakes for improved off-road capability with open differentials, which actually surprises me. I know for sure it works on Jeeps. Ford apparently has not caught up.

This link shows three wheels on rollers and how it works on a Jeep and Land Rover and how it fails on a Bronco. They test using automatic trail control modes, but it works similarly with just driving in normal mode. It's probably better not referred to as "traction control" because that's the system everyone hates - this description from another forum describes it better: With the JL Sport traction control off, The Brake Lock Diff function is always on in all modes. It works very well. Jeep traction control in 4H such as packed snow highway driving monitors and compares both axles to keep all 4 tires the same speed using braking or reducing engine power. With traction control off it ignores if one axle is spinning faster than the other but Brake lock Diff is still active so it only compares wheel speed to the other wheel on the same axle. Driving across a frozen lake in deep crusted snow it will surge and cut power with traction control on. Turning off trac control the power is maintained to keep momentum and brake lock diff does a good job. The Jeep system works very well. On rocks in 4L and traction control off, when you get wheel spin you just maintain gentle wheel spin and wait a few seconds for the Brake lock diff to gradually increase braking until the other tire starts to turn.
Other systems may be better, but none will cover every circumstance.
I definitely agree that there are places where traction control does not work as well as turning it off - if you're trying to "rock" a vehicle back in forth in ruts for example where you want some wheel spin. But I am also 100% positive that the F150 could benefit by using the brakes to improve traction on the road to your cabin. 🤷‍♂️
 
I sure like my T-1 with factory aperture sight,

Browning-T-Bolt-S.jpg


SR
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Ask Uncle Mike to show some pictures of the pre64 super grade I got for him….

It’s a GEM
Kinda busy now, but I will get to it.

It is a Model 70 Super Grade made in 1955 chambered in 300 H&H Magnum.

Although not as powerful as a 300 Win Mag, it requires a Magnum Length action, which was an additional cost.

The gun is in nice shape and has a 26" barrel. It holds very nicely. I like long barrel guns! My Buffalo Bill commemorative 94 with 26" Octagon barrel holds very well offhand also.

Matt wants me to hunt with it, but if I were going to hunt with one, I would trade it in for a new one in 300 Win Mag. The new ones have rubber recoil pads (quiter and don't slide when getting into an elevated stand), free floated barrel and stronger metal. No longer made in USA, but quality is VG and they shoot well (based on the reviews). I may just collect this one and use my Model 70 Black Shadow in 270 WSM as my open field gun.

I went with a Max load of StaBALL 6.5 and a 129 gr Barnes LRX (BC .463). It shoots 3,342 FPS with a SD of 4.4 from a 24" barrel! (Used Rem Brass and Rem Mag primer). For an open field deer gun, that would be hard to beat. Very flat shooting (1" high at 100 yds puts it dead on at 200 yds) and has over 1,500 ft lbs of energy at 500 yds.
 
Because I go up to my property a lot with the truck, and it is mostly uphill with some sharp switchbacks (unpaved 2 mi), I wore out rear pads in 20,000 miles when I was not turning off the traction control. Now, I always turn it off before I go up.
Even if you went up there every weekend for a year, there is no way that 100 miles of traction control use was the cause of brake pads wearing out prematurely. Sorry.
 
I have a 461R, seems vibey. Any have soft mounts or know how to tell the diff? Not much stihl exp. Thanks
I'd sell it and buy a 462. May not be as durable, but it's a lot lighter, better ergonomics, better on fuel, and has great power(maybe a little less torque). Best choice in a modern 70cc saw for a guy not cutting everyday in my opinion, and that from a husky guy.
Also I've owned quite a few 461s as well as 461r's, great saws too.
 
I'd sell it and buy a 462. May not be as durable, but it's a lot lighter, better ergonomics, better on fuel, and has great power(maybe a little less torque). Best choice in a modern 70cc saw for a guy not cutting everyday in my opinion, and that from a husky guy.
Also I've owned quite a few 461s as well as 461r's, great saws too.
I have run a 462 a little. I prefer my torque tank. I had Kevin port it even torquier. I have 2175s if I want lighter faster smoother. The 461 is good for felling with long bars or chewing up dry hard nasty Euc with shorter ones.
 
I have run a 462 a little. I prefer my torque tank. I had Kevin port it even torquier. I have 2175s if I want lighter faster smoother. The 461 is good for felling with long bars or chewing up dry hard nasty Euc with shorter ones.
I have one and have had a few other 372xpw/375's, the 462 is lighter and has every bit as much torque, but yes, they are way smoother than a 461. Keep a square chain on the 460/461, and they run a lot smoother.
Funny thing, right after I made the previous post on the 462 over the 461, I made this go from 461 👍 to 462 👍 😆.

http://youtube.com/post/Ugkx-jSLsqylfKF_n1OGEPHvNqLcOfNgIQqf?si=-E2F2ZESIfEy23sp

Screenshot_20250215_151505_YouTube.jpg
 

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