seal puller

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No. You know I'm hard of hearing;)

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the screwdriver in the seal worries me as far as scratching the crank how about drill a hole in the rim insert a screw and pull?

That is how I do it I use grease on the drill bit to catch the shavings from falling inside but when the seal is out you can see if there is any chips in there. I use a sheet rock screw the tip is nice and fine.
 
you ever make it?

Nope, not yet. . . Rereading this thread today reminded me though. I'm butt-circle deep in fixing my truck brakes right now, but may find a minute to do it tomorrow after church.

The idea is simple, something most could throw together.
 
Nope, not yet. . . Rereading this thread today reminded me though. I'm butt-circle deep in fixing my truck brakes right now, but may find a minute to do it tomorrow after church.

The idea is simple, something most could throw together.

start selling them. Ill be your first customer if it works good.
 
I bought the Lysle tool shown in this thread from Clarks Tool in Claycomo (KC) MO last week for $16. Haven't had the need to try it out yet.

I have also drilled a small hole in the metal portion of the seal and used the little slide hammer with the replaceable screw in the tip intended for body repair (pulling dents). I found that was far easier than the screw and pliers technique.

Mark
 
Okay, I had a little time this evening and threw it together. Pretty simple. . .

Everything needed to make this is easily purchased at a hardware store.

puller1-28-10001.jpg


supplies needed:

All-thread (ready-rod)
One 1/2" extension nut
One 1/2" nut
An inch or so of hot roll round (I used 3/8") -- 1/2" solid square would work too
Two paint can openers (free)
A welder or torch
Total fab time; approx. 30 minutes

I cut a 6" length if 1/2"-13 rod, and turned the end on a lathe. . . A grinder of some kind would work fine.

puller1-28-10005.jpg


I cut off two 1/2" long chunks of 3/8" rod and welded them to the extension nut. I then used a cutoff wheel and cut two small grooves to accept the "tang" in the paint opener.

puller1-28-10004.jpg


puller1-28-10006.jpg


I then plug welded the 1/2" nut to the un-sharpened side of the ready-rod.

puller1-28-10002.jpg


I used a 4.5" grinder with a resin fiber disc and thinned the hooks a bit. . .

puller1-28-10007.jpg


................................
 
Cont. . .


puller1-28-10008.jpg


The paint can openers can be placed beside the crank in position to remove the seals, then slid into the notches on the puller.

puller1-28-10009.jpg


Easy, cheap, and oh so Redneck. :D

puller1-28-10010.jpg


:cheers: :cheers:
 
BloodOnTheIce gave me the idea with his post. . . He's my Muse of sorts. LOL

I'll have to pull a seal on one of my parts saws. . . I'll post results.
 
Nice job! I have the Lisle puller already but I'm working on another now. Its and old valve spring compressor I'm modding into a seal puller. Again, great job on the puller. :cheers:
 
How fine/thin do you have to make the little lips to make them fit the small seal?

Not sure yet? . . I'll find out more tomorrow.

The beauty of this setup, is you have no limit to the different sizes of hooks you can make -- and the paint can openers are free. :cheers:
 

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