Setting raker depth with a grinder - any tips?

[Steve NW WI]

I'm using a Northern (Oregon knockoff) grinder for sharpening my chains. I've just started using it, and learning that my hand filing isn't quite as consistent as I thought it was

Anyway, I've gotten the tooth sharpening down pretty well now, but I'm wondering how you guys set the raker depth when starting a chain?

I have a wheel set up like in this post to grind rakers with:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1595890&postcount=4

What I'm doing right now is using a raker guage and hand filing one raker to the correct depth, then bringing the grinding wheel to where it just makes contact with the raker, and go from there. Is there a faster/easier/better way? I've almost thought of mounting a cheapo dial indicator on this thing for an accurate measurement, just haven't been that frustrated yet.

Also, how often do you re-dress the radius on the (tooth cutting) wheels?

Thanks

PS - I've searched my way through about 800 grinder posts in the last few months, and never seen exactly what I'm looking for. It may be possible that there is TOO MUCH wisdom and good info on here!

 

[dragrcr]

learn to do everything by hand IMHO it is better, sharper, and you can do it with the power out.... but i would still get a raker file and use it either way, its easy to get just the right amount off with one.

 

[Steve NW WI]

I file by hand after each tank of gas, and I'm getting better each time.

I mainly bought the grinder for rocked chains, or in my case more often metal. I cut quite a bit of fenceline wood that far too often still has some fenceline in it

Having skills with both is the goal, they each have their uses.

 

[dragrcr]

i dont think that you will save time using a grinder on the rakers, i would use the grinder, then when the chain is on the saw, use a flat file to get em down to where you like them.

 

[madhatte]

I file by hand after each tank of gas, and I'm getting better each time.

I mainly bought the grinder for rocked chains, or in my case more often metal. I cut quite a bit of fenceline wood that far too often still has some fenceline in it

Having skills with both is the goal, they each have their uses.

Same here, only working on a military installation, my main metal hazard is bullets.

I file by hand exclusively EXCEPT for badly damaged chains. I have experimented with raker gauges and grinders as well as Dremels, and have yet to come up with a method that works anywhere nearly as well as doing it by hand. Plus, even if you can figure out how to set the depth right by grinder, you still have to re-profile the leading edge. I'm thinking rakers are pretty much a "by-hand-only" routine.

 

[wigglesworth]

I file by hand after each tank of gas, and I'm getting better each time.

I bet you go thru a lot of chains filing after every tank. I can probably go 5 to 10 tanks before i have to file. But...them fence rows can be tough on a chain.

I just use the cheapo oregon "gauge it" tool. It works great for me. I just did one tonight and checked a couple of cutters with my calipers to see if it was accurate. After filing, most rakers were within .002 of the desired .025 lower than the cutter. Good enough for me.

 

[Saw Dr.]

I mainly bought the grinder for rocked chains....

Having skills with both is the goal, they each have their uses.

I just got a grinder also. Have not tried rakers on it yet. I got mine for straightening out chains on the project saws I buy to re-sell. Some of those chains are slavageable with the grinder, but you'd be all day trying to file them by hand. I like your idea about setting the first by hand, and then just matching the rest with the grinder. I think I'll probably find that it is better to hand file rakers, though. Plus I do not like the idea of changing the wheels on the grinder very often. Last thing I want is one of them to come apart on me.

Anyone have a "rule of thumb" on how long a grinder wheel should last before you replace it? Every year or two? Not until it is worn down?

 

[smokinj]

I'm using a Northern (Oregon knockoff) grinder for sharpening my chains. I've just started using it, and learning that my hand filing isn't quite as consistent as I thought it was

Anyway, I've gotten the tooth sharpening down pretty well now, but I'm wondering how you guys set the raker depth when starting a chain?

I have a wheel set up like in this post to grind rakers with:

http://www.arboristsite.com/showpost.php?p=1595890&postcount=4

What I'm doing right now is using a raker guage and hand filing one raker to the correct depth, then bringing the grinding wheel to where it just makes contact with the raker, and go from there. Is there a faster/easier/better way? I've almost thought of mounting a cheapo dial indicator on this thing for an accurate measurement, just haven't been that frustrated yet.

Also, how often do you re-dress the radius on the (tooth cutting) wheels?

Thanks

PS - I've searched my way through about 800 grinder posts in the last few months, and never seen exactly what I'm looking for. It may be possible that there is TOO MUCH wisdom and good info on here!

I perfer the rakers filed( much fastier chain imo) i do it while its on the machine do one drive length at a time.I use a depth gauage just to see how much is needed not much because I do them every sharpening

 

[blakey]

I have the same grinder and was also having trouble with the rakers. I bought an oregon measuring tool that lays on the cutters and the raker protrudes up through if it is over .025. I just run something like a credit card across it to tell if they are protruding. I set my grinder to take the right amount and do the whole chain.

My chains have never run so smooth, works great. Many times I will file the cutters but grind the rakers.

 

[smokinj]

I have the same grinder and was also having trouble with the rakers. I bought an oregon measuring tool that lays on the cutters and the raker protrudes up through if it is over .025. I just run something like a credit card across it to tell if they are protruding. I set my grinder to take the right amount and do the whole chain.

My chains have never run so smooth, works great. Many times I will file the cutters but grind the rakers.

are you grinding the raker flat or are you getting a point at the top?

 

[BobL]

Seeing as you have to round the rakers off with a file anyway I found it much easier to do all of this with a file.

I also file the cutters after just about tankful but it's not a full on filing, it's just a 1 or 2 stroke touch up. It's no worse in terms of cutter longevity than filling every 5th or 10th tank full except I'm always cutting with as sharp a chain as I can get so cutting speed is maximized and it more than makes up for the filing time, and the bonus is less bar and chain wear.

 

[mikefunaro]

Even if I rock a chain reasonably badly (not totally trashed but...you get the idea), I find that using a standard depth gauge tool I need MAX like four swipes with a flat file. It's very quick and easy. Even if you could do it with the grinder, I'd be a close race against a fast moving hand filer with a good flat file.

 

[smokinj]

Seeing as you have to round the rakers off with a file anyway I found it much easier to do all of this with a file.

I also file the cutters after just about tankful but it's not a full on filing, it's just a 1 or 2 stroke touch up. It's no worse in terms of cutter longevity than filling every 5th or 10th tank full except I'm always cutting with as sharp a chain as I can get so cutting speed is maximized and it more than makes up for the filing time, and the bonus is less bar and chain wear.

I carry extra chains with me Iam fastier at changing chains then touching up chains and I have never made it 5 tanks of fuel before needing a new chain,running full chisels all the time.

 

[nate cutter]

a dremel with a 1/4" sanding bit works the fastest for me

 

[B_Turner]

I sometimes lower the rakers with my Silvey 510, but it's a little inconvenient unless I am going to do the same thing to a bunch of chains in a row. Because I have to set the depth stop up so much higher than normal sharpening.

For depth I can either set the depth to the top of a tooth and lower counting turns, or more commonly I use a gauge to file one raker and then set the grinder wheel depth to that raker.

It's critical on the 510 anyway that the direction of the wheel be pushing the raker outward when lowering the raker (wheel at 90 degrees of course) to keep the chain in place while the wheel touches. In other words, I need a grinder that is reversible.

I have many many loops, so I typically batch my sharpening during offtime.

Generally I just use a gauge and a file. But files wear out so quickly and are expensive, so that is why I sometimes use the grinder esp on really long chains where they have been seriously rocked.

 

[Steve NW WI]

I sometimes lower the rakers with my Silvey 510, but it's a little inconvenient unless I am going to do the same thing to a bunch of chains in a row. Because I have to set the depth stop up so much higher than normal sharpening.

I'm doing all my dead chains at the same time, so I do all my 3/8, change wheels, do the .325 and 3/8LP, then go back and do all the rakers. I'll find out in a little bit how well I'm doing on them, saws are in the truck now, ready to do some cutting.

Generally I just use a gauge and a file. But files wear out so quickly and are expensive, so that is why I sometimes use the grinder esp on really long chains where they have been seriously rocked.

I can't seem to get much life out of the flat raker files either, according to most on here, Stihl files are better than the Oregons, but neither lasts like I think it should. I'm gonna have to try some of the Save Edge files and see if they're as much better as people say they are.

 

[treeguyinoh]

I generally use a Maxx grinder to sharpen. I have a number of spare chains, so generally, i will sit down and grind all 3/8, then all .365(lo pro). I lay a flat piece of steel across 2 teeth and put a .025 feeler between the rider and the steel. If it don't fit, take some more off. This works well for me. Aim for a snug fit with the feeler gauge or your chain can get a little grabby. As you remove more of the tooth, the rider will need to go a little lower than .025 to maintain any kind of cutting speed. At the end of many chains, when they are near ready to trash, I may have the riders as much as .045-.050 below the teeth. Exactly how much more to remove is something that seems to come with practice. Good luck.

 

[treeguyinoh]

And the Save Edge files are great. just try 1.