Setup to make Granberg style chain

[J D]

I'm currently working with one of these. I found there was a full inch deviation from saw end to bar end. If you run it open ended, check that out.

I bought something similar & found the graduations form end to end to be out by 1/8". Complained to the seller who sent replacements (that were equally flawed. Managed to match a couple near enough with a bit of filing. Something I noticed at the time was the plates welded to the bottom of the posts were inconsistent in thickness, some were tapered & some were welded on crooked. To use one as a single ended mill a bit of time would need to be spent truing the angles up

 

[kimosawboy]

I'm with Bob , there is no reason your saw ''390XP & with a 36" bar it struggles with full comp''. Personally I always buy skip tooth over full comp, just better all around!

 

[Twinpines]

I bought something similar & found the graduations form end to end to be out by 1/8". Complained to the seller who sent replacements (that were equally flawed. Managed to match a couple near enough with a bit of filing. Something I noticed at the time was the plates welded to the bottom of the posts were inconsistent in thickness, some were tapered & some were welded on crooked. To use one as a single ended mill a bit of time would need to be spent truing the angles up

Do you set the mill up tight to the body? Disabling the chain brake? Also do you remove the bucking teeth?

 

[J D]

Do you set the mill up tight to the body? Disabling the chain brake? Also do you remove the bucking teeth?

You want a bit of clearance... If it's tight to the body vibration will cause things to wear remarkably quickly. I removed the chain brake parts as this caused the clutch to get clogged up less but would only suggest doing that on a dedicated milling saw. I had an old damaged set of bucking spikes I ground the spikes off

 

[Twinpines]

You want a bit of clearance... If it's tight to the body vibration will cause things to wear remarkably quickly. I removed the chain brake parts as this caused the clutch to get clogged up less but would only suggest doing that on a dedicated milling saw. I had an old damaged set of bucking spikes I ground the spikes off

Safety won out in my first runs. I let tip run free to get the cut i needed. Then the recoil spring jumped the notch. Its a new to me homedepot rental. Ran great. I like the idea of dedicating it and getting that extra inch back sorry for getting this thread off topic

 

[J D]

Safety won out in my first runs. I let tip run free to get the cut i needed. Then the recoil spring jumped the notch. Its a new to me homedepot rental. Ran great. I like the idea of dedicating it and getting that extra inch back sorry for getting this thread off topic

Maybe posting with your setup would be a good idea, there are lots of people here that would have useful input but won't see it in this thread. Check out the CS milling 101 thread too if you haven't... Lots of good info there

 

[TrekJeff]

Slick setup, my dad has that same press on a shelf in his garage...