sharpening tips

[Rubicon]

Hi guys. I just bought an Oregon file guide along with a raker gage (unknown brand). When filing a cutter, do you sit the file guide at a rearward angle(following rearward angle of tooth) or do you sit it straight and parralel to the chain. Keep in mind that I don't mean the downward angle of the tooth. Am I making any sense? Also, the raker gage that I bought is the kind that sits on two teeth at once. Is this a good one or is there better. I'm just looking for any tips for sharpening. Thanks a lot.

 

[HUSKYMAN]

I have the cheap Oregon depth gauge plate that has a hole in it for the depth gauge to come through and it sits on top of the cutter tooth. You use a flat file to file the gauge. As far as filing the tooth I am not sure what you mean. Be sure to hold the file at a right angle to the bar and you file from the rear of the saw forward. The Oregon file plate that attaches to the file has angle markers on it so you maintain the correct cutter tooth angle, which is usually 25-30 degrees. I am sure Walt can do a much better job of explaining this to you.

 

[jokers]

Husky Tools

That`s right, file inside out, or from the back of the saw if you will. I noticed that noone else besides Huskyman wants to jump on this topic and I`m a little surprised. A few more things you need to know, start with the most worn or damaged tooth and count the strokes needed to bring it back to spec. Now do all the other teeth the same number of strokes, with the same moderately light pressure. Do all of one side first, then do the opposite side cutters. Pay extra attention to the angle of the top plates on your offside. I`ve found that I and most others will start putting a steeper angle on these teeth if not careful, ie: you may file at 35 degrees rather than 25 degrees. Another thing to be aware of is keep 20% of the correct diameter file above the top plate. For most current styles of Oregon chain, tip the file handle down 10 degrees as you file. This seems to hold true with the limited amount of Stihl chain I use also. The only chains that don`t require this down angle are the semi-chisels. Learn what a new file cuts like and discard files when they aren`t close to that performance. I also found that the Oregon depth guage tool that rests on multiple teeth averages the depth guage settings too much to provide optimal performance. I prefer the Husky tool shown and it`s only $2.50 at any Husky dealer in the States. The top one is for .325 pitch and the lower one is for 3/8 pitch. The tools next to these are roller file guides for the corresponding pitch of the raker tools. These are $6.50 at a Husky dealer and will give you a 10 degree downangle when properly applied to the bar, and also maintain the correct height of the file to the tooth. Remember that as your teeth become filed back, you will need to resort to a smaller diameter file to maintain the proper angles. Hope this helps, Russ

 

[CMBetz]

Russ,

I haven't used one of the rollers before, nor seen one in position on the bar/chain. How does it keep the proper height relative to the cutter? As the tooth is filed back, won't it position the file relatively higher for each filing?

 

[jokers]

Yes Christian, that`s true. That`s the reason you need a smaller diameter file, just as you do if you freehand. The height difference is negligible between each few sharpenings, but it is a compromise just like any sharpening that isn`t done by a well set up, precision machine. Truthfully, I don`t use the roller guides, it`s all freehand or machine ground, but I have used them and they do work, and many people find them helpful from what I am told. Russ

 

[HUSKYMAN]

No, the reason you need a smaller file is the distance between the cutter tooth and the chain links decreases as the tooth is filed farther and farther

 

[jokers]

Right Huskyman, isn`t that just another way of saying that as the tooth gets filed back it gets proportionately shorter in height because the teeth are sloped backward, to create a working clearance. Sort of like the flutes, or tip grind on a drill bit. A shorter in height tooth needs a smaller radius file to maintain the same angles. This is the same as a small diameter circle will have shorter radians than a large diameter circle, right? Russ

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy,

The Oregon depthgauge tool, the "gauge-it" is the most conservative method, and gives you the best control of the kickback potential. Unfortunately it also means reduced performance as the cutter is filed back. It also means that you need to have the cutters near the same length, cutter to cutter. Only the Carlton file-o-plate system gets around this problem, by the way.

The correct filing of the cutter is easiest obtained by use of the Oregon flat type fileguide. There are numerous filing aids and guides on the market, unfortunately many by folks who never did really file a chain correctly! There is one that alleges to file the depthgauge at the same time as the cutter is sharpened. Unfortunately, the cutter can rear back on you while you are sharpening and the depthgauge then becomes excessively lowered in the process.

No matter what file guide system you use, you always want to stop and compare your cutter to the example of a correctly filed cutter in the instructions. I used to say to save a sample brand new cutter to compare to, but now days that does not work anymore, since Stihl sharpens their cutter in a configuration that can not be duplicated after the chain has been assembled! You just can't get that much down angle on a file due to the parts on the otherside getting in the way.

Make sure you get a factory instruction sheet for sharpening what ever brand sawchain you use, and post the illustrations above the filing bench or area where you sharpen chain. Make your cutters look like the illustration.

Regards,
Walt Galer

 

[CMBetz]

Why is the File-O-Plate the only tool that will lower the raker on a cutter-by-cutter basis? Won't the Husqvarna depth gauge tools pictured above give the same results?

 

[jokers]

The File-O-Plate is just the best known, on this continent anyway. The Husky tools pictured give a very good, specific to each tooth, progressive lowering of the rakers. I`ll attach a photo of the tool applied to some 34LG. The picture doesn`t show it as clearly as I would like, the tool rests on the just sharpened tooth with the raker protruding. All you do is hit it with a flat file. Check it out. Russ

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Russ, I have never seen a depth gauge like that, looks like it would work nice.
After turning into such a Zealot, I now do rakers before grinding so as not to dull.
John

 

[Gypo Logger]

As an after thought, wasn't Walt really full of a lot of BS, although once in awhile he would say something enlightening.
John

 

[JohnL]

http://www.grounds-mag.com/ar/grounds_maintenance_sharpen_chain_saw_2


if the link works, it is basic info

 

[jokers]

Walt was an entertainer just like so many of the rest of us at times. Too bad he doesn`t post here anymore.

Russ

 

[Lewis Brander]

Hi, rubicon. another link to chek ou.

Here's another link to check out for chain sharpening tips. Try: < www.madsens1.com > , Lewis.