Shindaiwa sprocket replacement

[MajMac]

I would like to replace the sprocket on my Shindaiwa 415, which is about 16-17 years old but has had limited use. The teeth on the sprocket are all dinged up. I read some of the other posts about removing the sparkplug and putting something in the cylinder to hold the piston. I opted for a piece of fuel line. My problem is how to get the old sprocket off. It freewheels around the counter weights and there is no place to put a wrench on it. There are a couple of slightly recessed slots, actually just indentations, in the counterweight mechanism but no place to grip it tight enough to remove it. Has anybody got some experience removing these sprockets?
Thanks.

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy,

These older design Shindaiwa saws were built about as precise as anything could be. They last about forever if fed good gas and oil and the airfilter maintained well. They are made for another service standard in another world however.
There are special tools and special procedures for everything. You don't want to try to rebuild one of these engines at home.

As for removeing the sprocket: There was a special tool that engauges all three center spicer legs in the clutch center, after the piston is blocked with a PLASTIC plug replacing the sparkplug. These plugs are available cheap from most dealers ex EFCO/Italy, or others. If you don't have one or can't get, I would recommend blocking the piston with the starter rope, pulled out, doubled up, and fed down through the sparkplug hole. Be sure you start with the piston far enough up on the up stroke, so you do not trap the rope in the ports!

After you have achieved a successful block, you should be able to knock the clutch loose with a blunt punch. This is a backward thread. Be careful to avoid shattering the inner part of the clutch that you are banging on. Several sharp but not powerful hits may be necessary, as the clutch works on there with use. Be very careful about trying to heat it as you have bearings, seals, ect. in there! Not recommended.

You should really take the saw in to the dealer where you are getting the sprocket, if you can.

 

[MajMac]

Walt,

Thanks for the info. You mentioned a special tool Shindaiwa had for removal but you also mentioned using a punch. I have tried to block the piston with a piece of fuel line in the cylinder and tried to give a hard/firm hit with a punch but still no luck. As you know that sprocket and counterweight assembly is fairly flush and there is just a small edge that can be rapped on. I may have to take it to a dealer but one dealer in the area went out of business here in Maine and another one I'd rather not do business with.

Thanks for your help.

 

[tundraotto]

did you remember the "russian threads"? ie. the thread is backwards?

 

[MajMac]

Yes sir, I remembered the 'backackward' threads. Shindaiwa was even forward thinking enough for back yard mechanics to put an arrow on it for direction of removal and I think the word 'Off' was also on it. There is almost no area to tap it and I don't want to ruin my saw getting it off.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi there, although I never relish the idea of using a hammer and drift on a saw, except to remove wrist pins, you can easily remove the clutch with a long handled, large flat screwdriver and hammer. The saw should be placed on a cement floor so you can get the most efficient placement of screwdriver and wack of hammer. The disadvantage of string or fuel line to block the piston is that any mechanical effort is generally lost due to the squish factor. This string method is best used when a box end wrench can be applied to clutches with a hex nut. I find that a plastic or metal piston stop is the best that screws into the plug hole if the piston is brought up to meet the stop before hammering. Plastic piston stops should not be used where the plug is on an angle or the shank will snap off the stop and will have to be fished out somehow. It is also not prudent to place a screwdriver in the flywheel to block the shaft.
Although some shudder at using a metal stop, it is obvious that the point of least resistance will give first which is the clutch if done correctly. I havent punched a hole in a piston yet.
Hope this helps,
John

 

[Fish]

Does the clutch have holes in it?
Fish

 

[MajMac]

Thanks for all of your replies.
To Fish. The clutch is split in 4 pieces, held in with a spring. The slots will allow something about the size of a flat tip screwdriver, or maybe a special tool to fit in.

To John:
I've tried putting a screwdriver in the slot and hitting it with the saw on my workbench but I couldn't seem hit it hard enough. Putting it on the floor is a good idea plus I may try to pick up a cylinder block. The sparkplug does go in at an angle and your right about the 'squish factor'. Although a rubber fuel line helped hold the piston it seemed to me to be absorbing some of my whack along with the benchtop absorbing some as well.
I've got more time on Saturday and will try again then. I haven't given up yet but I won't let it set to long. I'm in Southern Maine and as many of you may remember we had a bad ice storm 3-4 winters ago that brought down a lot of trees and limbs. I definitely want it handy if I need to do any emergency removal of debris.
Thanks all for your posts.

 

[MajMac]

Hi guys. I finally got my sprocket off. Hitting with a hammer while on the floor didn't yield any results so I took Walt's advice. I called my old dealer that had gone out of business and he said to bring it by. It took him longer to find his old tools then to get it off. Pluy block, a couple of mild whacks on the special tool that fit the sprocket and off it came. Thanks again to all replies on this.

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy,

I'm sure your friend gave you the lecture, but in case he did not: Don't forget this experience! Those old horizontal cylinder Shindaiwa's were very precisely constructed, and with parts that are tight tolerance fits. Hammering and prying on things is very big no-no. With the correct simple tools, it's easy. Shindaiwa makes the tools available at cost to dealers to encourage proper work techniques.

The tightest fit in a Shindaiwa will be found to be the wristpin. You must not hammer this out. There is a correct pusher tool. On the old horizontal cylinder models, the crank endplay is shimmed with lug keyed thrust bearing washers, a setup that has to be reset every time according the book procedure; not by guess and by golly. These are not saws to work on at home!

With proper service and maintainence your old saw will practically last forever, and even if used in rather heavy service. Remember, Good fuel and good airfilter always!

Regards,
Walt Galer

 

[rupedoggy]

Mr. Walt here is a picture of two 695 Shindaiwa saws. One runs fine and the other is for parts. Since you like these so much I will offer to trade you for your race chain. I will only trade you if your chain beats Art Martins after John Lambert tests them. That should be a good trade for you since it takes less than an hour to make a chain. Let me know. Rupedoggy

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy,

Sounds like a deal. Might be a while however, as it will probably take a couple weeks for the stuff from John to get into this backwoods location. I still have not found a source for Carlton around these parts.

Regards,
Walt Galer

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Walt, I found Carlton chain here real fast, but I had it by next day. You should see a loop by Wed. I have the remainder of 25' of A1 LM that you are welcome too if you like after cutting off only 204 drivers off the reel.
I got the chain from Banta Saw Access Ltd. of Warkworth Ontario.
705 924 2645 Fax. 1-800- 359- 1993.
The reel cost me the equivelent of 100$ U.S. delivered the next day.
John

 

[chainsawworld]

would it be at all possible for me to get one of walt's famous racing chains? i would like to proform the same test on his as i do on mine. 8x8 milled clear tulip or popluar, three individual cuts, timed from when the saw comes in contact with the wood untill the time it clears. the saw of choice will be set up stock(carb,rim etc.). the same saw will run both chains in the same stick. i will video tape the entire event including swapping the chains. nothing in the entire event will change but the chains. anyone wishing to view the comparison just has to mail me a blank video cassette (vhs-c) and i will make them a copy. you have me wondering walt! marty

 

[Walt Galer]

Howdy Marty,

If you can send me a Carlton, 3/8 chisel (no guarklinks) in .050 gauge, the length you want; tag it up with your name and address, and I'll add it to the ones to do. As soon as the weather breaks just a bit, I have to set up a chaingrinder from my collection, and get on these.

The reason I like to use a Carlton, is to get the lighter drivelink. It helps lighten the chain, which makes it better for higher speed. For off the shelf stock saws, this is of less importance.
As I recall, the shorter part bottom under the cutter was also an advantage, especially for smaller saws.

Walt Galer
PO Box 1443
UPS 656 Spring Ln.
Eureka, Mt. 59917

Mail service to Eureka is the slowest in the country, but usually cheaper than UPS. I would sure hate to be the UPS driver in these parts. I don't know how the heck he finds addresses around here where a significant percentage of the population is on the lamb from something, and does not WANT to be found!

Regards,
Walt Galer