Show me your Alaskan Mark III rails

[gemniii]

Title is wrong - I've been slapped by BobL
It should be Alaskan Mark II Log Rails

I've been on this forum for a bit and keep seeing pictures of various rails for CSM.
There's
2x4's
2x6's
Aluminum
Ladders
etc.

How about posting pic's of rails in this one thread and benefits/drawbacks
unattributed examples

 

[dallasm1]

Superstrut is common. Here is my 20 ft double/rail setup. It is HEAVY, so I am working on an antisag system for a single strut channel. However this does the job for now.

 

[BobL]

Look in the CS milling 101 thread and you will see a HEAP of log rails.

BTW, small technical detail, "Alaskan Mark III rails" mean the long rails on the mill itself, or "mill rails".
The ones you want people to post are the "log rails" and have no specific connection to an "Alaskan Mark III rails"

Cheers

 

[gemniii]

Look in the CS milling 101 thread and you will see a HEAP of log rails.

BTW, small technical detail, "Alaskan Mark III rails" mean the long rails on the mill itself, or "mill rails".
The ones you want people to post are the "log rails" and have no specific connection to an "Alaskan Mark III rails"

Cheers

SORRY BobL

And I looked at that and saw 6 variations, might have missed some, and most of the pics involved some old white bearded guy.
Unlike me (see pic).

And actually I was hoping for pics from those that use a MIII or close equivalent. Some CSM's I've seen look like they run on railroad rails, which are HEAVY.

I'm hoping to discover some lightweight, sturdy, adaptable, inexpensive solution.

 

[mtngun]

I started out using a straight 2 x 10 and still use even though it's no longer straight. Actually, I like the board because it is simple, has infinite attachment points, and I sit on it while running the CSM.

I've thought about making a laminated 2x10 or something similar, with the idea being that it might actually stay straight.

Bought some unistrut a year ago but haven't got around to putting it together. Steel unistrut is heavy.

Considered using a ladder but it would probably need to be modified and ladders don't make good seats. Still, an aluminum ladder would probably last forever and it doesn't cost that much compared to the alternatives.

Many ways to play the game, no right or wrong.

 

[BobL]

SORRY BobL

Hey - no apologies needed

And I looked at that and saw 6 variations, might have missed some, and most of the pics involved some old white bearded guy.
Unlike me (see pic).

Green huh, that's different - was it a St Patrick's day thing?

And actually I was hoping for pics from those that use a MIII or close equivalent. Some CSM's I've seen look like they run on railroad rails, which are HEAVY.

I'm hoping to discover some lightweight, sturdy, adaptable, inexpensive solution.

Mk3 alaskans are pretty standard so guide or log rails should be pretty work on any alaskan variant.

Unfortunately milling over a distance of more than a few ft means proving some support or beefing up rails, so "lightweight and inexpensive" is a tough ask.

I have used lightweight (3/4 x 1.5") and heavy duty (2 x 4") RHS, 1" SHS, various ally and even wooden ladders, and boards as log rails. I know some CS millers and folks on this forum like boards but I find it hard to control twist with a single board.

Ally ladders are one of the lightest solutions I've used but even they twist and have to be corrected.

 

[splitpost]

I started out using a straight 2 x 10 and still use even though it's no longer straight. Actually, I like the board because it is simple, has infinite attachment points, and I sit on it while running the CSM.

I've thought about making a laminated 2x10 or something similar, with the idea being that it might actually stay straight.

Bought some unistrut a year ago but haven't got around to putting it together. Steel unistrut is heavy.

Considered using a ladder but it would probably need to be modified and ladders don't make good seats. Still, an aluminum ladder would probably last forever and it doesn't cost that much compared to the alternatives.

Many ways to play the game, no right or wrong.

That unistrut stuff is dear,bought 2x 6meter lengths of that P1000 and 8 channel nuts set me back just over $200AU

 

[BobL]

That unistrut stuff is dear,bought 2x 6meter lengths of that P1000 and 8 channel nuts set me back just over $200AU

Yep - especially when you can buy HD aluminium Highway sign Unistrut for the same money and they are less than half the weight - Too bad I bought my steel ones already otherwise I'd have bought the ally ones.

Here is another tip - I cut mine in half because I thought I would be milling a lot of 8 ft long logs and could then get away with using 2 x 10 ft lengths. Trouble is the most common length of logs I cut are around 9ft long, and 10ft is too short to start the log on the rails and allow enough room at the other end to come cleanly off the log. So I end up milling just about all the time with the 4 x 10 ft pieces joined together.

Next time I will cut them 8 ft and 12 ft and only add the 8 ft sections on when I need them.

 

[splitpost]

yeah i cut mine into 12ft and the left over is 6ft figure most boards i'll cut around 10ft gives me heaps each end to start and finish

 

[Kicker_92]

We use two 34ft long pieces of 2"x4"x0.120" wall steel tubing for our rails. With brackets on both ends of the log, and a single support in the middle, there is very little sag. For sawing 32ft long logs it works well.

They are heavy though, takes 2 people to lift and carry. Will try to find take a picture next time we set up.

I use an aluminum ladder for anything under 12ft, nice and light.

 

[mtngun]

We use two 34ft long pieces of 2"x4"x0.120" wall steel tubing for our rails. With brackets on both ends of the log, and a single support in the middle, there is very little sag. For sawing 32ft long logs it works well.

They are heavy though, takes 2 people to lift and carry. Will try to find take a picture next time we set up.

Please, please, please, I wanna see pics of the setup for 32 foot long logs.

 

[Kicker_92]

Please, please, please, I wanna see pics of the setup for 32 foot long logs.

I should really start a seperate thread. Had posted one a year or so back asking what other people had used, but didn't get much luck. I'll dig up the old thread and add photos there.

 

[dallasm1]

....speechless.....

 

[mtngun]

Ok, here's a teaser of edging the log with the mini-mill:

I should really start a seperate thread. Had posted one a year or so back asking what other people had used, but didn't get much luck.

I take it that in the pic you are using a short guide board and relocating it from time to time, probably using a chalk line as a guide ?

Love that long beam ! ! !:jawdrop:

 

[Kicker_92]

I take it that in the pic you are using a short guide board and relocating it from time to time, probably using a chalk line as a guide ?

Correct, it's a 12ft board that I just move along as needed. Just ordered another 8ft of V-rail for the mini-mill so will be able to do 16 or 20ft at a time soon.

We usually hang the rails off brackets at each end of the log, then I run a string line along the top and brace them up in the middle until it's nice and flat. I use spacers instead of wedges for the first cut so that the end doesn't lift up. It stays within about 1/8" for the whole length.

Those were some 18"x10"x32ft beams for the house my wife and I are building. Now that we're done with the 32ft lengths, I'll probably cut down the rails to 26ft to make them more managable. (for 24ft long beams)

 

[sachsmo]

buildin' a house

That is so cool, where did you get your plan from?

I would like to build a small timber framed cottage in my woodlot.


Do you have a good source for timber framed plans?

 

[Kicker_92]

That is so cool, where did you get your plan from?

We designed it ourselves, it's actually more concrete (ICF) than timberframe, but theres lots of fir eye-candy. Very simple little 2-bedroom place, but all the structure parts are oversized.

As far as rails go, I would have gone with 1/4" thick aluminum instead of steel. Much more expensive, but would have been a lot easier to manage. Went with steel because I have more use for the material later on down the road.

 

[BobL]

Fantastic looking wood and long beam there Kicker.

BTW I don't know how you can stand being so close to the saw without serious muffs and eye protection for such a long cut. You look about 30 years younger than me and I kick myself for not looking after my hearing when I was younger. Music sounds like mush, can't follow conversation at the movies or watching TV, can't stand being in a room with more than about 6 other people talking etc. You might have earplugs in but I know they are not enough. If I was your age I would be using muffs and earplugs.

 

[gemniii]

Fantastic looking wood and long beam there Kicker.

BTW I don't know how you can stand being so close to the saw without serious muffs and eye protection for such a long cut. You look about 30 years younger than me and I kick myself for not looking after my hearing when I was younger. Music sounds like mush, can't follow conversation at the movies or watching TV, can't stand being in a room with more than about 6 other people talking etc. You might have earplugs in but I know they are not enough. If I was your age I would be using muffs and earplugs.

BobL
When you use really tiny print it makes it difficult for some of us to see it

And keep those log rail ideas coming please!

 

[olyman]

Yep - especially when you can buy HD aluminium Highway sign Unistrut for the same money and they are less than half the weight - Too bad I bought my steel ones already otherwise I'd have bought the ally ones.

Here is another tip - I cut mine in half because I thought I would be milling a lot of 8 ft long logs and could then get away with using 2 x 10 ft lengths. Trouble is the most common length of logs I cut are around 9ft long, and 10ft is too short to start the log on the rails and allow enough room at the other end to come cleanly off the log. So I end up milling just about all the time with the 4 x 10 ft pieces joined together.

Next time I will cut them 8 ft and 12 ft and only add the 8 ft sections on when I need them.

i have tried to find that stuff over here--ive looked,and it either aint available--or i dont know where to look--as i would love some aluminum ones--would work---EXCELLENT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!