Show us your stumps!

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Got a picture of the lay?
The saw on the stump doesn't look like an 881.
Here was the first of the 2 I dropped, had a horrible tear out on the side before I made it half way into the back cut, 500i to finish because I wasn't running the 881 any longer than I had to


I've gotta find the video of that first one falling, it's somewhere
Screenshot_20231230_094951_Gallery.jpgScreenshot_20231230_094857_Gallery.jpg
 
With a half wrap? Figure it would have a full wrap. Must be an east coast thing. In just about all the pictures I see of Midwest and Eastcoast power saws. All the saws have half wraps. Im not knocking it. I'm just not use to it. 👍
Yeah its a half wrap, saws bone stock
Going to get a full wrap for my 500i eventually, but not the 881, I don't have a need for that

Honestly I've never once needed a full wrap but I figure there's a reason a lot of guys like them so I want to try one out
 
FWIW All of my old large McCullochs have full wraps. I converted one of the 82cc to a half wrap. Used it a few tanks and put the full wrap back on.

I bought a 500i when they first hit the east coast. I wanted the 3/4 wrap set up but they weren’t available. I pretty much fall similar sized trees with it that I do with the similar sized MACs. I would still like it to be a 3/4 wrap but to me the benefits are not worth the conversion cost as I have plenty of other saws.

Ron
 
barely brushed the gutter and left just enough room to get the truck out
View attachment 1139863

best part was, its a no cleanup
customer states: "im going to buy an MS362 with a 20" blade and cut those logs up into firewood" me: "good luck with that now here's the bill"
How much dose a down only no clean up job like that cost?
 
barely brushed the gutter and left just enough room to get the truck out
View attachment 1139863

best part was, its a no cleanup
customer states: "im going to buy an MS362 with a 20" blade and cut those logs up into firewood" me: "good luck with that now here's the bill"
Awsome! Is that an oak?
 
Not much good wood here. I thumped the tree with an axe to realize it was pretty punky all around. Wedges wouldn't work, they'd just go into the mushy outside wood and not do anything. I drilled it with the saw to realize there was some decent wood in the center. So I tried to pull it just a little to the right but it pretty much went where it wanted to go. Which was between two old buildings, missed everything and found the ground with it.

Good sized tanoak, 36" bar on an old 066. Too rotten and dead to climb it, only alternative would have been to get someone in with an aerial lift to chuck it down.
 

Attachments

  • DSCN1158.JPG
    DSCN1158.JPG
    470.5 KB
  • DSCN1159.JPG
    DSCN1159.JPG
    430.7 KB
Not much good wood here. I thumped the tree with an axe to realize it was pretty punky all around. Wedges wouldn't work, they'd just go into the mushy outside wood and not do anything. I drilled it with the saw to realize there was some decent wood in the center. So I tried to pull it just a little to the right but it pretty much went where it wanted to go. Which was between two old buildings, missed everything and found the ground with it.

Good sized tanoak, 36" bar on an old 066. Too rotten and dead to climb it, only alternative would have been to get someone in with an aerial lift to chuck it down.
Or, couple sticks of dynamite 😁
 
I
If you work a lot of small timber and find it difficult having room to follow your back cut with wedges and do so without trapping your bar? Try Executing your back cut first. Before your face cuts. Execute your back cut as deep as necessary up to the back side of where you intend your hinge wood to be. Remove your saw from the kerf. Then set your wedges in tight. TIGHT!! Then execute your gunning cut up to the front side of your intended hinge wood while using extreme caution not to relieve to much of your holding wood! Then execute third and final cut. Wether its a Humboldt under cut or Conventional top cut dosent matter. Then remove your face block. Your now ready to drive your wedges until the tree commits into a fall and without a saw bar taking up wedging space in the kerf of a shallow backcut.👍
If this procedure intimidates you. Don't try it! 🤣

Not much intimidates me. Take it slow the first time and be careful and you’ll learn something. I learnt two things. Slightly deeper back cut here would have been a little better but ya know, take it slow the first time. I’m a long way from a pro.
IMG_0259.jpeg

Ugly face cut but it worked …..
IMG_0260.jpeg

Gotta get some shorter thicker wedges or go from the sides next time and pound them in towards each other maybe. That may cause the hinge to break though. Shorter thicker wedges may be the answer.
IMG_0261.jpeg
 
Back
Top