Shrub Pruning

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Nice work on the burning bush Murph. That thing could even use more work in years to come.

Orclimber, I ofen do crown restoration work on shrubs, knowing that the lawn guys will be shearing them once they grow out a little. It isn't always possible to have a tree guy trim the shrubs every time it's needed, so you do what you can.
I don'y know if I buy the time thing, I can shear a bush a lot faster than properly prune it.
 
Mr. Maas,
It all depends on the growth habit, past care, size, and surroundings. Sure you can shear a bush or hedge faster, but the clean up is faster after pruning. After shearing you have lots of tiny bits of sticks and leaves to pick up. Some get stuck in the bush/hedge your working on and need to be pulled out, some get stuck in surrounding plants, some get stuck in bark dust, or rock. When you prune a hedge or shrub it'll take longer to do the pruning but the cleanup goes faster because the debris are larger and don't get hung up in 1000 places. If I'm pruning a rhodie, camelia, or photinia hedge I'll throw the debri directly into a bucket/tarp as it's cut, the stuff never hits the ground. ;)

I doubt the landscaping co. ever properly pruned a hedge/shrub, going through the whole thing like Murphy did in the pics. I think what they were refering to was shaping using proper cuts. Now that I think about it the only bushes I get paid to go through completely are rhodies, weaping Japanese maples, and the occasional lilac, star magnolia, camelia.
 
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tarps are definitely a good way to go for handling lots of small debris... you can move them without picking 'em up. Very neat and easy... AS far as time goes.. it all depends on the shrub... a big one could take 3-4 hours to hand prune... especially if the branching structure is really bad.... That may be 10x as long as it would take with trimmers... A small one could probably be done almost as fast as with trimmers.. The pictured shrub was pretty thick and took well over an hour... Could have been done and cleaned up in 1/3 the time with good gas trimmers... I haven't owned a set of hedge trimmers in about 10 years.... Though I alsmost bought a head for the pole pruner and weed wacker last year to do this monster privet hedge but I didn't get the job.... Also a big backpack blower like the Echo 650 kicks but on clean-ups...
Seems like a lot of guys out there spend good money for big equipment and climbing gear, saws etc..... but don't spend it on good equipment for clean ups... A man hour is a man hour and good equipment makes the job a lot more fun and keeps moral high... Anyone out there using a power broom???
Good night
 
cleanup

We have a powerbroom at the nursery, thrown in as a gift after our insurance claim was purchased from the equipment shop. I think it is Echo, possibly Stihl. Sweeps great, makes great noises, takes a bit to get the hang of it to be efficient (use at a slight angle like a snowplow) and if you rev it up nice and high you get covered in the goop you are sweeping.
 
A tree-pruning-dominant arborist saw me doing shrubs one day, and he said "you are pruning those like the way I do to trees".

Basically, if there is room to grow, the rules on woody shrubs are basically identical.

Shrubs compartmentalize, have a cambium, etc.. They are basically miniature trees.

The issues are that most people cannot afford individual hand cuts for size reduction on shrubs.

Some conifers are forgiving since they will not push buds from under the bark. Yew is one exception.

So we shear azaleas, boxwood, etc. so we don't take advantage of people by "creaming" their budgets.

Rhodies are trees - Rhodo = rose , Dendron = tree. Its name means rose tree. We prune them like trees unless reduction is needed.

If you need to reduce a tree, and do it decently, then apply the same rules to shrubs.

Except the twiggy ones are too severe to waste the time.

Nasty wild things like Forsythia, Quince, etc. we just prune out some of the big stuff to the ground, or cut back to a large node and let it resprout, leaving evenly spaced smaller stuff. Some of these are so unpredictable that proper pruning yeilds no better looks than "butchery with precision".

Look at the Pine on my home page at www.mdvaden.com

I shear the top of the candles in the spring, then go inside the clumps from underneath and thin some crud. The tree is still gorgeous. It takes about 4 hours. If I did it the full blown Japanese method by cutting and pinching and selecting every shoot, that tree would take 2 days. The owner does not want to spend that much. And there is little difference to the health quality of the 2 methods - its slight.

By the way, that photo is for looks. I hate that kind of pruning. I almost never initiate topiary any more. It always gets more time involved every year, and makes full compensation near impossible many times. A lot of pruners have started many to promote their egos - look how great an artist I am - then taken big hourly base cuts to avoid some migrant coming in after the project time skyrockets.

I used to do a lot of the "cool" stuff until I realized it just fed my ego in most cases.

And its really not that hard to do shapes. Its dot-to-dot drawing with hedge shears. Its where I would start my most primitive employees, comparable to lawn mowing as far as I'm concerned.

As many experienced pruning people know, its learning how to avoid shearing and shaping plants that takes the highest levels of skill and experience.
 
Originally posted by M.D. Vaden
As many experienced pruning people know, its learning how to avoid shearing and shaping plants that takes the highest levels of skill and experience.


Well said. The skill mostly takes place at the time the landscape plan and plant selection is made. Otherwise it's skill in trying to make the plant looks like it is naturally that size.
 
Originally posted by ORclimber
... hand pruning and shearing took about the same amount of time, because shearing takes much longer to cleanup. And hand pruning looks a lot better.

I figured that out a few years agot too. after you use the power shear on anything woody, you need to go in and clean the cuts up anyways. Then pickprune to allow some light into the interior...

I drag a tarp along and toss the snippings onto it as I go. Been thinking of getting one of those sacks paperboys or fruit pickes use.
 
Originally posted by M.D. Vaden
Some of these are so unpredictable that proper pruning yeilds no better looks than "butchery with precision".

I try to schedule them for right after prttle drop, this way I can get them and other plants with long internodes just before they start to pushe new growth. then the ragged appearance is not there as long.


By the way, that photo is for looks. I hate that kind of pruning. I almost never initiate topiary any more. It always gets more time involved every year, and makes full compensation near impossible many times.


there is one guy in town here who does topiary, bonsi and cloud pruning on long term, pay first contracts. They say that this way the comitmant is made and they will be able to complete and maintain the project untill it starts to look like it should then they can renew.
 
In thinking about the idea that hand pruning takes less time and is therefore actually more cost-effective than shearing.... it makes sense to me that depending on the situation it may be necessary to trim once, twice or more times/year, but hand prune onloy once every two or three years.. so maybe in the long run that's right... though just about anyone can run a hedge trimmer.... it takes training and experience to hand prune well... got to be good and fast.
here's a yew that has a terrible branch structure... this is the best I could do to start... hopefully ot will green up on the interior over the next year or two and give me some more options..
Here's the before.
 
Daniel-
I take some insult to your landscaper comments! I consider myself to be a landscaper first and foremost and I try my best to do what is best for all the trees and shrubs in the landscape. I don't mow, so don't characterize me with the mowing guys too (there are some that are good at everything, but they are few and far between).

I wish I had some before and after pics of the burning bushes that I have heavily pruned since last fall. I did some major reduction on about seven different ones (they looked about like the one that Daniel was working on). Took the overall hieght from about 5-6' to 3' or less. You guys would probably crap a brick if you saw what I did. I have no concerns about them though- they are a euyonomous, they'll come back! Other shrubs I probably wouldn't do that to.


J.P.S.- A.M. Leonard sells a product called a "Yard Bag" I believe that is sized to hold a cubic yard of material. It works great! The company I've worked for since November has one that they have had for about 2 years now and it's still going strong (even though we had to perform some surgery on the bottom- used zip ties to stitch up some holes). It is getting time for a new one though, but for $30-40, it's worth it. It has 4 loop handles and is made of some sort of woven plastic-type material. Very strong stuff. Be careful though, it can get too heavy for one person to drag when you start raking leaves out of mulch beds and getting mulch mixed in with the leaves!


Dan
 
A Tree Service owner turned me on to using tarps about 14 years ago, rather than trash cans I used to use.

One landscaper friend thought I needed an employee so that the tarp would not need to be drug on the ground.

A 5 x 7 tarp is about $1.99 at Home Depot. They last me 3 weeks to one month, dragging around yards and over sidewalks with debris.

An employee to hold the other end, for one month is $100s.

I use two things that are the cheapest:

One is tarps. I can drag them, and if it wears, its cheap. The ends can be wrapped in 1/2 knot like a handle for lifting.

Second is gloves. The good thick leather ones press on my knuckles too hard. I enjoy the cheap split leather ones that are thin. They last 2 weeks @ $1.97 each. They are flexible, lightweight, but strurdy enough to rub the bark clean on trees on certain smaller projects like Scotch Pine, or Himalayan Birch where the tree looks 2 times better by grooming the trunk and limb bark.
 
I've never had much success with tarps-it seems as if I always spill them into the rock I was trying to keep clean.:rolleyes: The yard bag sounds intriguing.
 
MM was definitely right about future pruning of the big burnong bush.... Here's the shrub after this spring's new growth.... This shrub is over 8 feet tall.. To me the natural look is much more appealing than a lolliop or a snow cone.
 

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