Silvey Rasursharp II grinder redesign and rebuild
- Thread starter srcarr52
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srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
Is it me or are the links not working to the movies anymore?
It's not you... this time. I went back and fixed them.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Shouldn't take more than a couple of hours to make a part like that on a good machine. Sounds like most of his time was spent mitigating the lack of rigidity in the drill press he was using as a mill.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
Yes, it was quite the pita. I've since upgraded to a CNC knee mill with Cent1 controls and a friend at a local machine shop has been hacking out multiple blocks at a time for me on a large machine.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Good machinery makes all the difference in the world. I'm not familiar with Cent1 controls. I've had experience mostly with Fanuc, but also with Makino, Okuma(hated it), Milltronics, Cincinatti(hated it), Prototrack(meh), HAAS, and a couple of others. I absolutely despise Hurco controllers...whoever designed the layout of functions must have sat around for hours trying to decide how to make them the least intuitive controller on the market. If there is anything worse, God please help the poor schmuck that has to run it.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
It's a Milltronics Centurion 1 control. Maybe someday I'll save up enough money and get a single board upgrade with Cent 5 software.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Ah. The one I ran didn't have any sort of designation on it. The machine itself was a Milltronics partner. Good machine, but you needed two people to run it. The X/Y handles were down at knee level on me(5'6" tall), so you needed a midget to operate them while someone 6'6" or better was needed to change tools(no TC on it). Had a pneumatic drawbar and tools would occasionally come loose in the cut.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
Ah. The one I ran didn't have any sort of designation on it. The machine itself was a Milltronics partner. Good machine, but you needed two people to run it. The X/Y handles were down at knee level on me(5'6" tall), so you needed a midget to operate them while someone 6'6" or better was needed to change tools(no TC on it). Had a pneumatic drawbar and tools would occasionally come loose in the cut.
Did it look like this one or was it the open bed mill style? This is my Partner 00 with Centurion 1 controls. I seldom turn the handles, I'd rather hold a button or turn the pulse wheel.
machinisttx
Addicted to ArboristSite
It was a bed mill. IIRC, it had about 4' of x travel and about 30" or so in y. I have run the knee mill style NC with an older black box(don't remember the designation) Prototrack control, as well as the newer Prototrack bedmills. I'm not especially fond of the knee mill types, but they do have a place.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
The knee mill works ok for me. I was looking for a manual machine and then I got this one for the right price. Now that I'm a member of the NC dark side I will never go back. My next one will probably be a larger open bed mill with a tool changer, but that is a long way down the road. I'll need to upgrade my manual lathe before then. Besides I have a friend who just opened up an engine shop and bought a Rottler F68 or something there abouts, I could always borrow some time on it.
Chris nelson
New Member
QUOTE="srcarr52, post: 3871133, member: 39776"]A few of you might have seen that I was unhappy with the slide on my used Silvey Razursharp II that I got about a year ago. For those of you not familiar with the grinder they use an aluminum block with a stainless steel slide to move the chain into the stone. This slide has adjustable gibs to change the pressure but if you get any grinding dust in the block it quickly wears and becomes useless. Once a little wear is present it becomes either too loose such that you'll be getting inconsistent beaks on your cutters or so tight you'll have troubles moving the slide and crash the cutter on the stone. Also there is not adjustment to level the slide with the stone so mine was grinding 2-3 degree different on the top plate per side of the chain and there was nothing I could do about it.
I set out to remedy these issues with a new design. It uses eccentrics with small ball bearings on the end to make a linear bearing slide that I can adjust in two planes to be perfectly aligned with the stone. Also I slotted the mounting holes so I can adjust the block in the vertical direction for different chain types or to get more/less top plate angle instead of taking the stone off and changing the stone height on the motor shaft. This will keep me from having to true the stone after each adjustment.
The new design drawn in CATIA.
To make the eccentrics I threaded a hole in a plate and then offset it in the 4-jaw on the lathe. Then just cut down the end of some 3/8x24 UNF all thread and threaded the end to hold the bearing.
The block I made on a cross-slide table on an old delta drill press. If I'm going to make anymore I subbing them out to a CNC shop or I'm buying a decent mill. I took 12 hours to mill the part out since I had to take very small cuts or the slop in the drill press head would cause it to chatter. Also I wasted an hour or two cutting the slot that mounts the block to the original drop piece in the wrong direction.
The final assembly of the slide block.
[/QUOTE]
So how do I order one?
I set out to remedy these issues with a new design. It uses eccentrics with small ball bearings on the end to make a linear bearing slide that I can adjust in two planes to be perfectly aligned with the stone. Also I slotted the mounting holes so I can adjust the block in the vertical direction for different chain types or to get more/less top plate angle instead of taking the stone off and changing the stone height on the motor shaft. This will keep me from having to true the stone after each adjustment.
The new design drawn in CATIA.
To make the eccentrics I threaded a hole in a plate and then offset it in the 4-jaw on the lathe. Then just cut down the end of some 3/8x24 UNF all thread and threaded the end to hold the bearing.
The block I made on a cross-slide table on an old delta drill press. If I'm going to make anymore I subbing them out to a CNC shop or I'm buying a decent mill. I took 12 hours to mill the part out since I had to take very small cuts or the slop in the drill press head would cause it to chatter. Also I wasted an hour or two cutting the slot that mounts the block to the original drop piece in the wrong direction.
The final assembly of the slide block.
So how do I order one?
Trx250r180
Saw polisher
Pm him,he just introduced a new version also recently.
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