Skil 1629 rebuild, June 2014

[user 122986]

Musings: I had a strong urge to paint the outer shroud (top cover) black, but any orange Skil chainsaws I have seen are totally orange.

 

[user 122986]

1629/1631 MUFFLER: By the way, anyone have a template to cut parts for a muffler for this Skil chainsaw? I have managed to "spot-weld" with my MIG-140, so thin plate steel should work to fabricate a muffler. I can create something, but I don't think that I can get anywhere near the correct back pressure and sound dampening. Meanwhile, I am looking online for available mufflers.

 

[user 122986]

Saturday evening, I installed the gas tank, and the fuel tank mounting damper (cork). Then I installed the new grommets in the tank, the tank vent assembly and the fuel line. Pushed enough fuel line through to the filler hole and installed the weighted gas filter. The fuel line will be cut to the correct length when I re-install the carburetor. I put the gas cap on, then did a suck 'n blow test. I had to adjust the vent to ensure no air escaped when blowing into the fuel line.
I am hoping to find a replacement flywheel. When I test run this saw after rebuild complete, I can't run up the revs since a few fins are missing, so the flywheel is out of balance. One pic is of the flywheel labeling: RE PHELON CO, and stamped with "FG-5849" or "EG-5840" (the bottom of the first character is missing).

 

[user 122986]

For those interested, this post is to show a comparison of my new chainsaw color compared to 2 other products.
One is a 30 - 40 year old Black & Decker workwheel. The other is a 15 - 20 year old B&D hedge trimmer. Both have plastic bodies, so I am not showing paint compared to paint.
I am showing this so you can see that the Tremclad Real Orange is just a subtle shade lighter than the B&D signature orange color (plastic).

 

[user 122986]

Still waiting for the carb. repair kit to arrive, but I assembled most of the external components and the bar and chain. I have the original bar, 16" (part #227415) but will not use it for actual cutting. It does not have a nose sprocket.
Instead, I have a Sandvik 16" bar with a nose sprocket.
I installed most of the external 'panels' and the bar and chain. The oiler needs gasket repair, the front handle and carburetor are not installed.
I'm glad I resisted the urge to paint the top black. I like the smooth lines of the profile with it all one color.

 

[gmax]

It's looking good, I wouldn't worry about a few broken flywheel fins, I've run a few saws with broken fins It doesn't seem to do any harm.

 

[user 122986]

Not finding mufflers, so I guess I will build one.
I have a 20 inch bar and chain to replace the 16 inch original bar, but I was hoping to get a dog spike (spike bar) to make the saw look more aggressive with the bigger bar.
No luck. It seems like every saw in existence has a different dog spike, but none come close. They are very inexpensive, since they seem to be just stamped and heat hardened steel. I decided to make my own, just using an angle grinder and Dremel rotary tool.
I made a cardboard template, then a 3/32" steel prototype, doing the coarse shaping with an angle grinder, and fine shaping with the rotary tool. The prototype is good enough for trials if I ever get the saw running.
The carburetor repair kit has been installed, but one gasket is too small for the choke valve. I scanned the carb. choke port and printed a gasket to fit on card stock, then spray coated that with heat resistant clear varnish. Thickness and stiffness seem ok. I bought a muffler gasket sheet, and cut a gasket for the muffler port.
I scanned the dog spike prototype, and am uploading the image (it is to scale, but not sure if it can be copied and keep its scaling). The bolt holes are 1/4" and bolt spacing is approximately 2.75".

 

[user 122986]

Unfortunately, the 20" bar and chain I had does not fit the chainsaw, so for now, I will use the 16" Sandvik bar and chain, at least for photos.
Everything is assembled, including a used intact Phelon flywheel I bought, listing http://store.chainsawr.com/products/skil-1630-chainsaw-phelon-flywheel. I have never dealt with this company before, but they were quick to respond, and sent the order within a week. The flywheel was in great shape with all fins intact, and fit perfectly. Thanks, "chainsawr.com".
I do not yet have a muffler, so I haven't added chain oil or fuel and it has not yet been started.
I will start fabrication of the muffler soon.
The attached photos are of the fully assembled (lacking muffler) chainsaw.
I still do not know for sure what the model is.
My prototype felling dog/dog-spike is attached to the saw. When the saw is sitting on a level surface, the bottom of the dog is 1/8 inch above the surface.

 

[user 122986]

I have been trying to determine which model of saw I have. The majority of ORANGE Skil saws I have seen on the internet have been 1631. Almost all 1629 saws have been all cream or cream-yellow with black accents including top cover (outer shroud). The Skil 1629 is apparently a re-branded PM 330. The 1631 seems to be a re-branded 340.
The specs for each can be found here (I take the author's word for the accuracy):
Model PM 330 (Skil 1629): http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/9bcb92527535680788256c060017cda3?OpenDocument
Model PM 340 (Skil 1630/1631): http://www.acresinternet.com/cscc.nsf/ed1d619968136da688256af40002b8f7/de68794bd98e77e788256afc001d09d9?OpenDocument
The stroke for each saw is the same, at 1.25 inches
The bore for the 340/1631 is 2.0625 inches, the bore for the 330/1629 is 1.875 inches.
So the bore for the 1631 should be 3/16 inch greater than the 1629. I decided to do a rough estimate of the bore of the saw I have. Since I have never had the cylinder off, I decided to do an in situ measurement.
I have not finished fabrication/installation of the muffler, so there is access through the exhaust ports. I wrapped paper towel around a soft pine chopstick, and cleaned the oil and grime off one of the 2 center exhaust ports. I then inserted the bare chopstick through the port to touch the cylinder wall opposite. I then ground the side of the chopstick against the hole edge closest to middle of the cylinder. The carbon on the hole rubbed off on the chopstick, and the sharp edge of the port hole made a small groove in the soft wood of the chopstick. I measured the length from the end of the chopstick to the groove using an adjustable square. The bore appears to be slightly over 2 inches, so I think this saw is a PM 340/Skil 1630/1631. Since there is 3/16 inch difference between 330 and 340, there is little doubt in my mind. 3/16 would be very noticeable.
Any dissenting opinions always welcome, that's how we learn.

 

[J Beard]

Lookin good! Nice work!
Keep it coming.
Have you done a pressure or vacuum check yet?

 

[user 122986]

Lookin good! Nice work!
Keep it coming.
Have you done a pressure or vacuum check yet?

Thank you for the encouragement, J Beard. I had not thought about doing a pressure check until you mentioned it, and I do have a pressure tester. I got the tester for the Small Engine Repair course in 2011, but you know how it is, tools that are seldom used are often forgotten.
I loaded the tester to about 50 psi (a few pulls), released the pressure then ran 2 tests. On the first test, it was between 120 and 125 psi after 8 pulls. On the second test, just under 130 psi after 10 pulls. I'm afraid my work boots were a little too big, and during the second test, the handle slipped from under my boot, and the saw flipped, scraping some paint from the gas tank. No worries, I will just touch it up with my rattle can for any final photos (truth in advertising).
To be fair, I did not disassemble the body or cylinder when I started this rebuilt process, I poured a tablespoon of new oil into the cylinder through the exhaust port when the piston was near the bottom of stroke, and a tablespoon through the intake port when the piston was at top-dead-center. Then I bolted solid plastic covers (cut from windshield fluid bottle) on intake and exhaust ports and rotated the saw several times (not the pull starter, like a juggler would).
Then, I used a washing cabinet to degrease the still assembled body/cylinder.
The result of this is that the piston rings are well lubricated with oil, which likely added to the pressure buildup. I did not do a bleed-down test, no chance of replacing seals anyway - no one carries them anymore.
I am satisfied with the pressure, although I know many new 2-strokes push more than 150psi at 10 to 12 pulls. Note also that the carburetor is in place, and there is no restriction at the exhaust port. The throttle was not opened (should have done that) but the choke was open.

 

[user 122986]

Last report before muffler construction is complete.
Visible condition of the piston.
These photos are only at the exhaust port. I will not remove the carburetor to photograph the intake port.
Top of piston while it is at its bottom of stroke. Top of piston and compression ring. And finally, the side of the piston while it is at its uppermost position.
There are visible striations on the piston, but there does not appear to be heavy scoring.

 

[user 122986]

I broke my word - muffler is only half constructed and here is another report.
I have been investigating 24 inch guide bars and chains. 24 inch chains are not that expensive, but locally 24 inch bars are 2 to 2.5 times more expensive than the chains. I guess that it stands to reason since a guide bar will outlast many chains, assuming proper lubrication.
The 20 inch bar and chain I have are compatible in pitch and gauge with the specs for the PM 340/Skil 1631, but the bar extends too far for the chain to go around it.
A local tool and equipment store suggested buying a chain that had one or two more links in it, and just use the 20" bar. Since the saw is mostly for demonstration purposes to show that the chainsaw actually works, I decided instead to extend the slot in the 20 inch bar by about 0.6 inches.
I drilled a 21/64 inch hole just past the end of the slot, and used an angle grinder with a cutoff wheel to cut out the bridge part (see the photo). That worked, and I was able to install the 20" bar and chain with no problem.
Finally, I took a photo as proof. It will be disassembled until the muffler is fabricated and installed, since the front handle mounting bolt extends too far to slide the muffler in, and the bolt can't be removed with the bar in place.

 

[LegDeLimber]

Be careful to see that your oiler output hole will still align with the opening on the bar.

 

[user 122986]

Thanks, LegDeLimber, I will check, for sure.

 

[user 122986]

Since the clues seem to point to this saw being a Skil 1631/PM 340, I will label it with the simple round 1631 label. Not sure yet how I will create the decal, but it will be fun trying various things.

I am not sure of the actual size of the label, so I have created a design that is 200dpi, 450 x 450 pixels, which is 2.25 inches diameter.

I attach a photo of my decal/label, and freely make it available to anyone who wants to use it. Hopefully, there will be no issues with copyright, etc.

 

[user 122986]

Be careful to see that your oiler output hole will still align with the opening on the bar.

The 20 inch bar does not have holes for oil to enter the groove, but when installed on this saw, oil can exit the oiler channel and deposit on the top of the bar where the chain meets the bar (see photo). I will, however, drill a hole on the oil feeder side on each edge of the bar to ensure that oil feeds directly into the groove, similar to the Sandvik bar. The original Skil guide bar had holes through the entire bar.

 

[67L36Driver]

Regardless of what model number Skil assigned to it, it is actually a Power Machinery 340. I have a Skil 1645 in yellow/black. When it was new, it was a sexy, sexy thing. LOL

Good work bud!

And, as far as finish goes, it is a chainsaw not an automobile.

 

[67L36Driver]

For labels and decals I take it to a local sign company. Starting with a digital photo they hve duplicated some John Deere (chainsaw) stuff for me in vinyl.

 

[user 122986]

For labels and decals I take it to a local sign company. Starting with a digital photo they hve duplicated some John Deere (chainsaw) stuff for me in vinyl.

Hey, thanks for the comments. I have a design for a decal, but never thought about a local sign company for production. Thanks a bunch.
I wonder if I could get it done at a local Staples?