Slash Chainsaw Recommendation

[Scyry]

I mainly use chainsaws for collecting firewood and cleaning up around my places. I have a Rancher 455 and a small battery saw. I cut 6-8 cords of firewood a year. The Rancher is great for firewood. This summer I did a lot of cleaning up standing trees 6 to 8 feet off the ground, so I am cutting off limbs on standing trees. The Rancher gets heavy putting it up shoulder height and reaching out. The battery saw just doesn't last long enough. I'm looking for a small saw that won't wear me out and my wife can use also. She like to help limb trees once they're on the ground. I had a Stihl MS-261 C-M that had warm start problems from the beginning, never felt right either, bogged down too easily. Stihl was less than helpful on the warranty side, so I am avoiding any Stihl saws. Prior to that saw I had a 15+ year old Husqvarna that was smaller than my Rancher, loved that saw but the bulkhead broke on it. Husqvarna's have treated me well. I live in the foothills of the Rockies, cutting at 9,200 feet, and everything is pine/conifers.

I am looking for recommendations for a small, rear handled saw to meet above. Saws I'm thinking about:

Husqvarna 439 (seems like this saw might no longer be made?)
Husqvarna 440
Husqvarna 540 XP Mark III
Echo CS-2511P
Echo CS-361P

Thank you.

Still got an acre of this to clean up the slash on:


View attachment IMG_3078.JPG

 

[altatim]

If you need something really light, get a rear-handle version of a top-handle saw (540xp, stihl 151c-e, echo 2511P) and if you can take a bit more weight get get an Echo 501 and muffler mod or another small home-owner saw. A lot of them are only a pound or two lighter than your rancher though. Last option is just get more batteries for your battery saw. It seems like the weight of that one isn't an issue.

 

[pioneerguy600]

Hard to beat a 50 cc clearing saws for small stuff unless the small stuff is over 3 inches that is when the bigger 56 cc saw comes out.

Run this style blade on them, not this actual blade though, just a borrowed pic off the net

 

[Scyry]

Hard to beat a 50 cc clearing saws for small stuff unless the small stuff is over 3 inches that is when the bigger 56 cc saw comes out.

I don't have much low brush, I have trees that I need to take the limbs off of up to 8 feet. Trying to keep the trees in good shape.

If you need something really light, get a rear-handle version of a top-handle saw (540xp, stihl 151c-e, echo 2511P) and if you can take a bit more weight get get an Echo 501 and muffler mod or another small home-owner saw. A lot of them are only a pound or two lighter than your rancher though. Last option is just get more batteries for your battery saw. It seems like the weight of that one isn't an issue.

Thank you. The small saws like top handles is what I was thinking. I am having a hard time finding info on the Echo's to do a direct comparison though. They have a ton of light weight saws, but no info on the HP or chain speed. People seem to like the 2511P. The Rancher minus the bar is over 13 lbs. and 540 XP is 9 lbs. Echo has a ton at 8 lbs. and then the 2511P is under 6 lbs. Sort of wondering if it will still have enough power at altitude though? Never owned or used an Echo. Thought it was a Home Depot brand like Husky or Rigid until I started looking around.

 

[pioneerguy600]

I don't have much low brush, I have trees that I need to take the limbs off of up to 8 feet. Trying to keep the trees in good shape.

Thank you. The small saws like top handles is what I was thinking. I am having a hard time finding info on the Echo's to do a direct comparison though. They have a ton of light weight saws, but no info on the HP or chain speed. People seem to like the 2511P. The Rancher minus the bar is over 13 lbs. and 540 XP is 9 lbs. Echo has a ton at 8 lbs. and then the 2511P is under 6 lbs. Sort of wondering if it will still have enough power at altitude though? Never owned or used an Echo. Thought it was a Home Depot brand like Husky or Rigid until I started looking around.

I seen the scrawny white sticks in your pic, that is what we call slash, tree limbs we call brush, just different names from different locations, true clearing saws are not much good for de liming tree trunks. I use ported/modified Stihl 026`s for that chore.

 

[babybart]

Get a pole saw and you don't have to reach.

 

[Chevboy0167]

https://www.milwaukeetool.com/products/outdoor-power-equipment/quik-lok

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

This might be the ticket.

Also see if you find the little echo 400 rear handle saw.

 

[muddy42]

A 50cc clearing saw (or a brushcutter) is actually that top of the range in terms of power, price and weight. Id think twice about that - really hard work to use.

I'm cautious about one handled chainsaws (petrol and electric) for safety reasons. Id go for the smallest two handled petrol saw (like a sthil MS 150s MS160s MS180s). these are not professional grade saws so less well built, but they will last 5-7 years if you treat them well and don't force them.

 

[Franny K]

The echo 361p might be dissapointing at first but over time the impression changes. Starts real easy, as in pulls through real easy with the mechanism they put in it. The exhaust comes out with the chips, only Echo with double d adjusters so no limiters. 3/8lp or 1/4 spur sprockets. I think the 1/4 is the 0.050 stuff that Is what I have. Kind of doubt the mini 1/4 will fit the drive sprocket.

The husqvarna 540mk3 is impressive on the performance but kind of loud, wonder if some of the others would do better in comparison if the noise was the same. It will blow the exhaust at the ground if you cut that slash low. I think it is made more to a price point than it should have been 3/8lp or mini .325. Seems to have a lot of compression and just a spongy thing in the handle you grab and the cord seems short. I drop start it where the Echo is at the inseam not necessary to drop start. Air being the cushioning device that way.

At 9000 feet battery might be advantageous there are many of those bigger than what you likely have. Keep your spares in a cooler.

 

[Scyry]

Went with an Echo CS-361P. Will update as it goes. So far just started it up and trimmed off a few small branches on a dying pine. Three pulls with choke, one pull after and it started. Need to tune it to the altitude and break it in. Messed with it a little, it was having trouble staying idling, but a half turn and it is running a lot better. Doesn't seem to have as high of RPMs has my Rancher or the Stihl I used to have. I like the simplicity of the saw. The gas and bar oil caps are easier to work with. I wish it had a bigger set of spikes and the opening dia. of the gas and oil were bigger.

 

[WoodmanSr]

Nice choice. Seems an interesting lightweight saw.
It's got a Catalytic Muffler, right. Find an Echo cs355T open muffler. Would let it breathe much better. Tune accordingly. Fit 355T muffler & keep 361P original for any warranty work.

Went with an Echo CS-361P. Will update as it goes. So far just started it up and trimmed off a few small branches on a dying pine. Three pulls with choke, one pull after and it started. Need to tune it to the altitude and break it in. Messed with it a little, it was having trouble staying idling, but a half turn and it is running a lot better. Doesn't seem to have as high of RPMs has my Rancher or the Stihl I used to have. I like the simplicity of the saw. The gas and bar oil caps are easier to work with. I wish it had a bigger set of spikes and the opening dia. of the gas and oil were bigger.

 

[esean]

Nice choice. Seems an interesting lightweight saw.
It's got a Catalytic Muffler, right. Find an Echo cs355T open muffler. Would let it breathe much better. Tune accordingly. Fit 355T muffler & keep 361P original for any warranty work.

Agreed, that's what I did with my muffler. I also added bigger spikes - aftermarket cheapies made for a Stihl 170. I did need to cut off the lowest spike and I think slightly enlarge one of the mounting holes to match the Echo spacing. The same spikes also fit the CS2511 without needing to cut the lower spike off.