Small chainsaw

[Berkshires]

Hi gang. Yeah, another chainsaw thread. I looked around a bit, and wasn't able to find answers. But if someone just asked the same question and I missed it, feel free to just send me to the other thread.

I've been running a Homelite (Home Depot brand) 16" 33cc chainsaw for 20 years or so. It still runs great, but it I'm thinking of upgrading. My problem is that it gets bogged down, it likes to cut to the right or left (and when it does it sometimes stops grabbing the wood at all), it doesn't have dogs on it to help keep it straight, and at 16" its bar it's a little small.

I use it for bucking, taking down a few trees, and general yardwork. Mostly for bucking up trees for firewood to run my maple syrup evaporator, plus a little extra for the woodburning stove. Maybe I buck 3 full cords a year.

Now what I don't want is a big 24" chainsaw. I'm a little guy - strong but small, and as I said I only process a few cords of wood a year. So I don't need or want a huge saw. But I think I've gotten my money's worth out of this old Homelite, and would be willing to spend up to maybe 5 or $600 for something that could make my life easier when it's time to buck up the wood. I was thinking something with an 18" bar. And I'd hope to get another 20 years out of my next saw.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Gabe

 

[WoodmanSr]

Hi gang. Yeah, another chainsaw thread. I looked around a bit, and wasn't able to find answers. But if someone just asked the same question and I missed it, feel free to just send me to the other thread.

I've been running a Homelite (Home Depot brand) 16" 33cc chainsaw for 20 years or so. It still runs great, but it I'm thinking of upgrading. My problem is that it gets bogged down, it likes to cut to the right or left (and when it does it sometimes stops grabbing the wood at all), it doesn't have dogs on it to help keep it straight, and at 16" its bar it's a little small.

I use it for bucking, taking down a few trees, and general yardwork. Mostly for bucking up trees for firewood to run my maple syrup evaporator, plus a little extra for the woodburning stove. Maybe I buck 3 full cords a year.

Now what I don't want is a big 24" chainsaw. I'm a little guy - strong but small, and as I said I only process a few cords of wood a year. So I don't need or want a huge saw. But I think I've gotten my money's worth out of this old Homelite, and would be willing to spend up to maybe 5 or $600 for something that could make my life easier when it's time to buck up the wood. I was thinking something with an 18" bar. And I'd hope to get another 20 years out of my next saw.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Gabe

Been covered here... look up Best 40cc Saw, Echo cs4910, Echo cs400. Other 40-50cc are discussed.
I'd skip the new generation cs4920 or cs4010 which are stratocharged clean emissions models. Are some still available older above models or 2nd hand.
Echo has alot of value for the money, & 5 year homeowner warranty, only why stating those models. Search those model threads for discussed Stihl or Husqvarna alternatives.
As often suggested, your dealer support will guide the Manufacturer choice. Your needs don't justify a Pro series saw. imo. Someone will still say Pro model Stihl ms261. Vs. home/ranch Stihl ms271 would serve you fine enough. Etc.

 

[J D]

Firstly I would say it will be worthwhile establishing why your saw is cutting left/right. It may be that your bar needs replacing, but more often than not it's related to how you're filing your chain.
If it does just require the bar dressing or replacing that would likely be worth doing to have a good spare saw... or a smaller saw to compliment with a slightly larger one.
For a new saw I second Woodmans comments. Echo have some really good offerings in the category your looking at

 

[Michael E]

Firstly I would say it will be worthwhile establishing why your saw is cutting left/right. It may be that your bar needs replacing, but more often than not it's related to how you're filing your chain.

I agree, that sounds like a chain issue.

When you say you are looking for an 18" chainsaw, you might as well look for a car with 16" wheels. What I'm trying to say, you can put any bar length on any chainsaw. But what kind of chainsaw do you need? When your 33cc saw lacks power, I would suggest a 50cc replacement. If you are looking for a lightweight model, check out the professional lineup of any major manufacturer. Weight reduction is expensive, that's why homeowner saws often have more weight at the same power output.

 

[Chainsaw Pete]

First thing I'd do is put a new chain on your saw. Well, actually, the first thing I'd do is check a few things...air filter, spark plug, your drive sprocket, and your bar (mostly preventive maintenance). There is plenty of info around on how to maintain a chainsaw's bar. Then I'd put the new chain on and see how it cuts.

I'd characterize myself as an advanced amateur. I clean up storm downed trees for myself and friends, and this summer have been helping a friend on his farm (half w/ a sugarbush). I'm partial to Stihl - was given a big old (obsolete) one and bought a MS250 and later a MS311. I have both 18 and 20" bars for the 250, and every time I use it I'm surprised at how fast it cuts. I too am a little guy, and probably have a few years on you, but lighter is important if you are going to be using the saw for a few hours.

After you read what all the guys have to say in this thread, I would suggest you make a spreadsheet showing the brand, cost, displacement, power, weight and bar range to compare the saws you are considering. I have a last column on mine, that shows the Power to Weight ratio - more for curiosity than anything else. Then come back here and ask about a few saws you are serious about buying.

If you don't do all your own maintenance, buy from a shop that has a good reputation for servicing what they sell.

Stihl seems to be putting their electronic engine management system on their pro saws, and I don't know enough about that to suggest anything. From what I've seen, the homeowner saws do not have this. I do suspect it will make owner maintenance a bit more difficult, and probably increases the cost of the saw. I'd prefer a simple carb to said newfangled electronics...unless the guys here start raving about (and not at) this Stihl engine management system.

 

[Chainsaw Collectors]

Like some others I’m going to recommend looking into Echo. I have a CS-490, good saw.

 

[EchoShindaiwaMakitaDolmar]

Echo/Shindaiwa, 40-59cc range: cs400, cs4910, cs501p, cs590 Timberwolf

Or, if you can find a NOS/New Old Stock Makita/Dolmar, 50-56cc range: ea5000p, or 5600FR Ridgeline

 

[Marley5]

A couple of cords a year you'd be in perfect harmony with a Echo CS 4910/ 490 and if you prefer Stihl, MS 250.
Not a requirement but I'd also recommend a muffler mod, makes me grin

 

[jblnut]

A couple of cords a year you'd be in perfect harmony with a Echo CS 4910/ 490 and if you prefer Stihl, MS 250.
Not a requirement but I'd also recommend a muffler mod, makes me grin

I’ve cut a few hundred cord of firewood with my MS250 since it was new 20yrs ago. It was all the saw I ever needed until I found this website lol.

I ran an Echo 4910 last weekend and was quite impressed with just about everything on it. Dang nice saw for the money.

 

[Rich 07830]

Hi gang. Yeah, another chainsaw thread. I looked around a bit, and wasn't able to find answers. But if someone just asked the same question and I missed it, feel free to just send me to the other thread.

I've been running a Homelite (Home Depot brand) 16" 33cc chainsaw for 20 years or so. It still runs great, but it I'm thinking of upgrading. My problem is that it gets bogged down, it likes to cut to the right or left (and when it does it sometimes stops grabbing the wood at all), it doesn't have dogs on it to help keep it straight, and at 16" its bar it's a little small.

I use it for bucking, taking down a few trees, and general yardwork. Mostly for bucking up trees for firewood to run my maple syrup evaporator, plus a little extra for the woodburning stove. Maybe I buck 3 full cords a year.

Now what I don't want is a big 24" chainsaw. I'm a little guy - strong but small, and as I said I only process a few cords of wood a year. So I don't need or want a huge saw. But I think I've gotten my money's worth out of this old Homelite, and would be willing to spend up to maybe 5 or $600 for something that could make my life easier when it's time to buck up the wood. I was thinking something with an 18" bar. And I'd hope to get another 20 years out of my next saw.

Any suggestions?

Thanks!

Gabe

HD still has some Echo CS-4910s in their online system . If there are any left next month I'm planning on buying one. I have become sold on the Echoes! I have a CS-620P, CS-355T and am older CS-4600. They cannot be beat for value & have a 5yr warranty. If money is not a factor Stihl and Husqvarna pro saws get great reviews. That said for myself, the increase in performance does not warrant the big difference in price. If I can't find a CS-4910, I will order an Echo CS-501P to replace my Husqvarna 450e as my 50cc saw. The 450e (Rancher) is the most annoying and frustrating saw that I've run/owned! Have fun in your quest and beware of C.A.D., it is contagious and can be spread via the internet!

 

[Valpen]

As mentioned earlier but not emphasized enough (IMO), how close are your dealers and how good are they?
Regardless the brand, saws will require service (or parts if you are so inclined).
Your current Homelite would probably cut straight with a bit of attention to dressing the bar and perhaps a new chain, so that led me to the thought that you may not use a dealer for service.

If I were you, I would start with a tour of your local dealers, see if they have any decent "trade-ins" or "estate sales" for sale that fit your needs that they would sell with a warranty to you. You might get some value for your money, and a saw that will last you the next 20 yrs.

My current cutting/saw use is similar to what you described, and I would not trade my Stihl MS200 rear-handle or 012AV (45cc) for any another saw for the tasks you described. But I have grown up with Stihl, can get parts easily, and am a happy Stihl maintainer/customer.
Both are reliable, balanced, and can handle a 16" pico bar easily, and perhaps most important, are light weight so that I don't get tired as easily (and make mistakes).

 

[Berkshires]

Thank you all for your responses! It will take me a while to get through them all and look up all the saws mentioned. I'll be back to discuss those further after I do that and do my homework. In the meantime, some folks asked about the bar and chain, so I thought I'd reply to that.

My bar and chain are about two and a half years old. Here's what I have on the saw: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Oregon-...a-Ryobi-and-More-27857-16A041S56-23/326904971. Does this seem okay?

I recently watched a video about chain tightness, and I think I had been taught to keep my chain too loose. Even after tightening it up now, when I wiggle the chain, it has a lot of play in the bar. I wonder if the groove the chain runs through could be a bit blown out. It looks like the chain might like to turn sideways a little. So I will almost certainly pick up a new bar, whether or not I invest in a second saw. Does the bar and chain I got last time seem okay?

Regarding the chain/sharpening, I sharpen it after every couple days of use, sometimes more often, with the Timberline chain sharpener. So I think the angles, sharpness are pretty good, but I just learned that most people sharpen their chains every tank of gas. I definitely have not been doing that!

Thanks again for all the comments.

Gabe

 

[J D]

Need to see pic's... bar rails & good close ups of a selection of cutters from different angles

 

[Berkshires]

Need to see pic's... bar rails & good close ups of a selection of cutters from different angles

 

[Berkshires]

A lot of you are talking about dealers and service. Does this mean if i buy a new saw i need to buy it from a place that services those saws? That may be pretty hard to find (aside from simple sharpening, which i can do myself). If I can find a place like that nearby, i guess I just sew what they carry, and that's my only option?

Gabe

 

[Marley5]

My 1st thought is the cutters need more gullet.
A correctly sharpened chain will survive way more than a tank of gas unless you hit something.
I probably cut 2 cords of wood before I touch up a chain.....the chain tells me when it wants attention.

 

[WoodmanSr]

A lot of you are talking about dealers and service. Does this mean if i buy a new saw i need to buy it from a place that services those saws? That may be pretty hard to find (aside from simple sharpening, which i can do myself). If I can find a place like that nearby, i guess I just sew what they carry, and that's my only option?

Gabe

Maybe aim to look up-state if want to purchase new. Google "small engine sales near Berkshires MA" or "Outdoor Power Equipment near Berkshires MA". Etc. Certainly will spot Echo, Stihl, Husqvarna dealers.
Actually sensible plan to buy from region that chainsaw will get most use. Near your sugar bush mentioned. Dealer relationship that close by.

Also, check your Arboristsite mailbox or linked Email account. I sent you some other information.

 

[Mad Professor]

I'm local to you.

I might have a 026 Stihl I'd part with. But I'd have to go through it so I can feel good about selling. That is tune/ cut some wood with it. Price wood depends how it runs. Has a very good B/C, 150psi compression. Besides B/C all OEM Stihl parts. It did get run rich and has some carbon on the piston. Also needs a bath, I'd do that.




I've had Stilhs since the 1980s, and do all my own work. I'd be willing to let a full inspection/take parts off/comp test

Might take a a few weeks if you are not in a rush.

I'm not real happy with most local Stihl dealers now. The best one was Billy Bractcher in Pownal Vt, he retired. I go to Cannan CT now Williamsburg MA now

If this should go in the for sale, Mods move the post

 

[Michael E]

My 1st thought is the cutters need more gullet.

I agree. It looks to me like your grinder rides too high on the tooth, not creating enough of a hook shape. If that is even on both sides, your chain would cut less powerful. If it is worse on one side, the chain would cut crooked.

 

[Valpen]

Great pictures.
Is there any chance that you have a narrow-width chain in bar with a standard groove width?
Does the chain fit/slide firmly in/on the bar?, or can you wobble/rock the chain from side to side in the bar groove?
I am not familiar with Oregon products, but Stihl has several chain widths and bar groove widths...