I have a timberline, and while I like it, it's not the easiest sharpener to set up. Getting the height set up correctly (and getting it to STAY set up that way) can be a challenge, and on a .325 chain you have to set it up differently for each side. If the carbide cutter is deeper on one side than the other, you will cut crooked all day long. First the saw will pull to one side because the cutter has a more acute cutting angle. That side will then dull faster and your saw will start pulling in the other direction. Personally, I think this sharpener is best reserved for someone who knows quite a bit about sharpening chains and can quickly tell whether or not they have it set up correctly. Something like a Stihl/Pfred 2 in 1 file might be a good option for someone who doesn't sharpen chains all that often.Hmm, I use the Timberline chain sharpener tool. Not sure how much you can change how high or low the file sits, but there may be a little wiggle room. I'll have to experiment. One thing I did notice is that doing the teeth on one side versus the other, the file moves so it's either pushing the chain into the bar, in which case it doesn't really move, or pushing it away from the bar, in which case it can flop to the side a bit. It seems to me this could create different angles since the chain doesn't really rotate much when being pushed into the bar, but on the other side it can get pushed out away from the bar more.
GO
FWIW, 3 cords per year isn't a lot of cutting, but it's also not a little. If you just mess around with it and burn a tank of fuel now and then, a homeowner saw is fine. If you tend to run the saw for several hours at a time, then I'd recommend going with a pro model 50cc saw. By pro model, what you're really looking for is a power head that weighs less than 11 lbs AND generates more than 3.5 hp (preferably 4 if you're buying new). I'd SERIOUSLY consider Mad Professors offer on the 026. It's an older saw, but they are still very serviceable. Not only that, but if he's gone through it, you're reasonably assured that its of good quality. It really boils down to how much you want to spend. A new bar and chain will have your old homelite cutting straight again and for not a lot of money. I'm not sure exactly which model you have or how much it weighs, but there's a good chance that a new pro-model 50cc saw will be within a pound of the same weight and will have a LOT more power. As others have mentioned, even though box stores sell saws based on bar length, the length of the bar has nothing to do with the saw itself. I can put an 18" bar on my 90cc saw if I want to. Buy the saw based on the saws output (hp), weight, and cost, and then choose a bar length that matches the size of wood you cut or the way you want to cut (ie longer bar for not bending over as far).
As far as dealer support, if you're going to run the saw for 20 years, you'll need parts at some point. These days, that's about all that a dealer is good for. If you're REALLY lucky, you might have a dealer where some old guy actually knows how to work on saws, but most likely you end up with a young to middle age guy who THINKS he knows how to work on saws. The young to middle age guys who actually know how to work on saws are porting and building race saws for fun, or doing something similar on bikes. So if your mechanic is under 50, and he's (or she's) not doing stuff like that for fun, you're better off doing the work yourself. Your most likely issues will be carburetors (adjustments and replacement), spark plugs, fuel filters, and MAYBE an oil pump and/or clutch. All of these are things that a capable person can adjust/fix/or replace in about 10 min with not much more than the hand tools that normally come with a saw. If the problem goes deeper than that, you need to be talking to someone who's serious about 2 cycle engines. Dealers are serious about selling chainsaws, not working on them.
Someone can flame me if I'm wrong on this, but my general impression on saws is that Echo makes a great saw. Its normally a little heavy for its power, but they are durable and generally last a long time. With that said, when they get old and die, they are done. I don't see or read about people putting a new top end on them, or replacing the intake boot or seals after 30 years. Stihls, and some Husqvarna, on the other hand, rarely actually die. They just get rebuilt and put back to work. You'll spend more for them up front but they can literally last a life time so long as you don't run it over with a truck, drop a tree on it, or run it so bad that you damage the actual case. This is why they hold their value better on the used market. That 026 that's being offered will keep up with many of the new 50cc saws on the market today, and might just outlast them to boot.