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I was trying to adjust my carb today on my 235 and I am having a slight problem.

I found this place: http://www.zamacarb.com/assets/pdfs/HowToAdjustCarburetor.pdf
and I am trying to follow the instructions. I started with the L and got it to its optimum (as best I can tell), but then when I went to adjust the T, as its labeled on my saw, going clockwise I would run out of travel before the clutch disengages. Also, when I went to pull out the choke with it all the way in it would not stay on full choke and jumped back to run position. I then tried going counterclockwise and I could get the clutch to disengage but the saw would start to die really easily. I did solve the choke issue by going counterclockwise.

So am I doing something wrong? Should I adjust the carb differently?

Thanks!
 
SimpleTree said:
I was trying to adjust my carb today on my 235 and I am having a slight problem.

I found this place: http://www.zamacarb.com/assets/pdfs/HowToAdjustCarburetor.pdf
and I am trying to follow the instructions. I started with the L and got it to its optimum (as best I can tell), but then when I went to adjust the T, as its labeled on my saw, going clockwise I would run out of travel before the clutch disengages. Also, when I went to pull out the choke with it all the way in it would not stay on full choke and jumped back to run position. I then tried going counterclockwise and I could get the clutch to disengage but the saw would start to die really easily. I did solve the choke issue by going counterclockwise.

So am I doing something wrong? Should I adjust the carb differently?

Thanks!
Click to expand...
I didn't have time to read the ZAMA pdf, but the L and the T will be somewhat interactive until you get close. The T is just a set screw that props the throttle plate open - CW should open the throttle and CCW should drop it. With the L and H, CW is lean and CCW is rich - you are closing/opening a needle valve.

Anyway, set the L until max rpm. If the chain moves turn the T out a bit until it stops, then do the L again.

As for the final setting for the L, that depends on if the carb has an accelerator pump, which can be had to find out. There needs to be extra fuel for acceleration, and that can come from setting the idle richer than max idle rpm, or it can come from an accelerator pump in the carb. If it has a pump you don't need to set the L mixture richer than max idle rpm. To make it simpler, set it at max idle rpm, and after the H is set then if there is hesitation when you open the throttle, give the L a little more fuel until it goes away.

Once the L is set (or close), then the H should be set so that it runs clean in the cut under load with no misfire, but when you lift you hear it start to misfire ("4-stroke"). As a starting point run it no load wide open throttle, adjust the H to max rpm, and then turn it CCW (open, rich) so that you hear the rpm drop and a bit of misfire. Don't leave it run no load WOT for very long.
 
Simpletree, I just went through this with a saw with an air leak. I couldn't get the chain to stop. It had a broken primer bulb and a loose spark plug. I know that it was sucking air through the bulb and probably through the spark plug threads too. If the chain didn't move at idle, the saw was not running. Follow Chris's advice and you should have a running saw with no chain movement At idle.
 
Thanks for all the advice! I'm taking a day off from my saw because I got frustrated yesterday (probably worked on it 2 hours yesterday on an off.) So hopefully I'll have some time this week and we'll see if I can get it running well. :)

ANewSawyer said:
Simpletree, I just went through this with a saw with an air leak. I couldn't get the chain to stop. It had a broken primer bulb and a loose spark plug. I know that it was sucking air through the bulb and probably through the spark plug threads too. If the chain didn't move at idle, the saw was not running. Follow Chris's advice and you should have a running saw with no chain movement At idle.
Click to expand...
Is there a chance my bulb is broken in a place I can't see? I hadn't thought about an air leak through there. I know the spark plug is seated correctly because I just replaced it yesterday. The primer bulb seems to be functioning properly but it does always have little bubbles it pulls through even after 2-3 pumps. It does seem more firm after 2-3 pumps, but should there still be bubbles?

Thanks!
 
Sorry, I don't know about the bubbles, unless you have a crack in the fuel line before the bulb that is pulling air into the bulb.

My bulb, well, I don't know how long it was broken but it didn't break in the bulb. It broke where the flange went under the mounting piece. So I came away with just the dome, no flange. What was funny was that I had used the bulb several times since I got the saw. I might have used it earlier on the day it broke, I don't remember. But I was getting ready to sharpen the saw and I bumped the bulb. And it broke. Funny stuff!
 
Hi again,

I am having trouble with my saw. I have been trying to get it to run properly, but every time I try to tune it the saw won't cooperate. I have had no problem finding a sweet spot for the idle pin on the carb, but then when I go to adjust the T I have not been able to get the rpm down without the saw dying. Is this just a matter of fine tuning slowly in till the saw is running properly or is there a chance something else is wrong?

My gas that I am using is probably 6 months old and I mixed it with Husqvarna oil 50:1 as soon as I got it. I am wondering if I should get some shelf premix to at least test it and see if I can get the saw to run properly.

The reason I am fiddling with the saw at all is that a few moths ago I was trying to use the saw and it wouldn't run after a few cuts. I had to let it sit a couple of hours and then it would start and run for a couple more cuts and die.

Any help is much appreciated!
 
Good luck with your saw troubles. Any saw mentioned here would be perfect for you. I would seriously look at a dolmar 421. That's what I would get. Check with member fordf150 for a price. And with his great service you don't have to fret about having a close by dealer. Keep us updated with your little husqy and your new saw search. Don't get hung up on a specific brand.
 
**** my echo 360t seen everybit of 300 hrs from new. bummer part of it is it has one piston ring vs most other echo engines. that bummed me out. i took my time breaking it inn and usually run 40.1 mix and never over heated it. wore out one bar and many chains. broke a chain catch and also part of the filter cover over the spark plug but the jap engine is still holding its own.
Finn1 said:
Sounds like the target market of the Rancher series is exactly what you intend to do with a saw. You aren't a logger or professional arborist, and your saw probably won't see over 20 hours of actual run time per year.

My old Husky 55 Rancher and Stihl 029 Super are actually overkill for most yard and cleanup work, and I find that a ~45 cc saw works well for that type work.
Click to expand...
 
Stihk oh26 can't go wrong there they screem they cut they start cold after 5 pulls but they start and 14.500 rpm soynds good too more if they are ported
 
Don't read nothing for tuning start out with the high jet get it running good wot in a cut then set ur idle high and tune ur low jet then drop ur idle screw down if idle won't drop then you have a vac leak or linkage is not bent rite
 
SimpleTree said:
I have had no problem finding a sweet spot for the idle pin on the carb, but then when I go to adjust the T I have not been able to get the rpm down without the saw dying.
Click to expand...

Are you adjusting it with the bar and chain on? If not, the clutch will never "disengage". If you are, it is possible the clutch spring is weak and needs replacing. When this happens, the clutch will engage at a lower rpm than normal and you will get exactly what you are experiencing. One of the 246's I recently finished had this same problem and a new clutch spring fixed it.
 
is something wrong with the clutch itself? I forgot a needle bearing once when putting a saw together... and the clutch was more or less permanently engaged..... chain wouldn't stop moving...and the saw would die as soon as I hit the throttle
 
Nice little saw there sagetown!

I have not worked on my 235e much more unfortunately. To answer a couple of questions, I do have the bar and chain on the saw. I also don't know that the clutch has any issues, but I can say the saw is running very high with out any throttle input. So regardless of the condition of the clutch the engine is turning over too fast. I bought some shelf fuel the other day and I'll try to give that a go on my 235e one of these days and see what happens.

But on a much more interesting and fun note I got myself a new saw (or, well, used but new to me.) Its a Husqvarna 440 and I am so glad I got it. Just a huge improvement when it comes to cutting and its even about the same weight as the 235e. I have to stay there is a little more bulk to the saw, but with the power gain it is not something I am concerned about. :) I have run this saw for about a total of an hour. I cut up some maple that was 10-16" dia. and not I'm working on getting my pile of cottonwood taken care of. I'll post some pictures soon and maybe an update as I have new information or thoughts.
 
By far, this lil Poulan 2075 , 36cc is my most cherished small saw. Bought new many years ago, and it has served me well. It is light, and with new drive sprocket, and armed with a 91 pro bar and an aggressive sawchain, it is awesome .

ar
Poulan_Pro_91_Bar.jpg
 

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