Smallest setup to mill 32" log?

[Husky Man]

Hey, on a related topic, I only see any 36" bars in .063 gauge. And a lot of people recommend Bailey's ripping chain, so I went to buy some of that, and a bar. However, Bailey's apparently doesn't have any ripping chain that's .063 gauge. Only have .05. Unless they put the wrong description on this one--33RC115. I'm guessing the RC is for ripping chain, but the description says it's chisel.
Granberg does have .063 gauge rip chain, but the site says they're on lock down in California and can't send any orders out.

Any advice or an alternate source would be appreciated.

Hi Blue42, what PITCH are you using, 3/8 or .404?

I use .404/.063 for my milling, I just use Stihl Full Skip, and have been Happy with the results, I haven't tried a milling specific ripping chain yet, and so far, I like my results with the full skip. I am tempted to get a ripping chain and try cutting a couple slabs from the same log, using each, the ripping chain, and full skip, and compare results, but haven't yet.


Doug

 

[Blue42]

Doug, I had thought all the milling chain was 3/8, but Granberg actually have .325, .375, .404.
https://granberg.com/product-category/chain/chain-chain/?v=7516fd43adaa
I just want a standard setup to start with, and it is looking like 3/8 is the best balance for this, and it's the sproket type that comes on the 395xp. A smaller kerf would be nice for ripping, which I assume would go along with a smaller gauge typically, but I'm not seeing any 36" bars available in a .05 gauge.

 

[Skeans]

Doug, I had thought all the milling chain was 3/8, but Granberg actually have .325, .375, .404.
https://granberg.com/product-category/chain/chain-chain/?v=7516fd43adaa
I just want a standard setup to start with, and it is looking like 3/8 is the best balance for this, and it's the sproket type that comes on the 395xp. A smaller kerf would be nice for ripping, which I assume would go along with a smaller gauge typically, but I'm not seeing any 36" bars available in a .05 gauge.

I wouldn’t run anything but 63 gauge it’ll oil a little better and a little more width on the driver is a good thing when you’re trying to push power.
What bar are you planning on running?

Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[andy]

+1 for .063
Go for .404 if you can.
It's stronger but that's not all.

Since switching from Stihl to Husky I have .063/.404 on my 36" bar vs .063 3/8 on the 62". (Forester 62' bar sold only with 3/8)
When the sprocket tip gives out on the 62" I'll change that over to .404 also if I can find a tip.

The .404 chippers stay sharper longer and it feels like there is more to file making it easier to see and control sharpening.
At first it seemed counter intuitive but it makes sense.... You get more feedback from pushing a larger file against larger cutters.... More surface.
The cutters seem to stay sharp longer too.... anecdotal ? Maybe but that's all that counts for me at this point.
I mill thick planks so don't get too caught up in Kerf waste....
If the operation was for thinner planks meaning more rips.... It might be a different consideration. (Kerf waste)

There seems to be legit regional prefferences when it comes to milling.
Different trees have different traditional uses.
So as always .....ymmv

 

[Blue42]

Thanks for the feedback; I already ordered an Oregon 36" bar at 3/8 and .063.

EDIT: I ordered a new 395xp too but it showed up all beat up. I'm returning it. Possibly an exchange. Gives me another chance to consider maybe going to a 572xp, though. I like the idea of the Autotune. Just don't like the idea of not being able to get a 36" bar on it, maybe. At least Oregon doesn't list a 36" one for it.

 

[Blue42]

If you found a saw you like go for it. My cousin gave me an old Homelite C5 he got at an auction for a dollar. It was a good runner, so I gave it to one of my buddy’s that wanted to try milling. He bought a 30 inch bar and chain for it on eBay. No one recommends a C5 for milling. But he mills with it all the time. He keeps a sharp chain on it and lets it cut at its own speed. If you put 200 ponds of pushing on a dull 880 or 3120, you can burn them up too. You can definitely use a small for the job saw if you use common sense and go slow. I picked up a Homelite Super 1050 at an auction for $150 and mill with it with a 36” bar and 404 chain. My main milling saw is a 660.

I appreciate this input. The old guy at our local Stihl dealer agreed, saying you could certainly use a smaller saw as long as you let it cool during your cuts. Somebody on one of the many threads I read said that the main challenge on running longer than recommended bars on saw isn't turning it over, it's keeping it oiled. I would not know the validity of that.

 

[Blue42]

I wanted to update this post. Over the last two months I got the saw, milled through a couple 8" or so logs without anything going wrong, welded up an exhaust for the saw with a dirtbike muffler mounted to the Granberg mill to quiet it town (working good, although it took forever to get together) and have now cut four or five slabs out of the 32" thick chestnut oak log. Also been working like a mule to haul those slabs to the top of the steep, steep hill the tree fell on with rope and pulleys. It's been every weekend 6 hours a day for most weekends doing one thing or another with the logs. So it's coming along, although, I sure don't know what I'm going to do with 40 slabs of 8' x 2.5' oak.
Thanks for your advice to get all this going. I will post pictures and parts list on the exhaust setup when I get the time. I've just been working all week at my paying job, then working non-stop at my non-paying job every weekend for months and haven't gotten to it yet.

 

[Assembler]

I wanted to update this post. Over the last two months I got the saw, milled through a couple 8" or so logs without anything going wrong, welded up an exhaust for the saw with a dirtbike muffler mounted to the Granberg mill to quiet it town (working good, although it took forever to get together) and have now cut four or five slabs out of the 32" thick chestnut oak log. Also been working like a mule to haul those slabs to the top of the steep, steep hill the tree fell on with rope and pulleys. It's been every weekend 6 hours a day for most weekends doing one thing or another with the logs. So it's coming along, although, I sure don't know what I'm going to do with 40 slabs of 8' x 2.5' oak.
Thanks for your advice to get all this going. I will post pictures and parts list on the exhaust setup when I get the time. I've just been working all week at my paying job, then working non-stop at my non-paying job every weekend for months and haven't gotten to it yet.

I would be interested in seeing the pictures of the dirtbike exhaust system and what you did the connect it all up. Thanks

 

[Blue42]

I plan on writing it all up, complete with parts list and instructions when I get to it. But here is a picture. Took forever to do. Welded most of it together. Have it all wrapped up now in DEI exhaust wrap. Used 304 stainless, which was probably overkill, and stainless is real, real hard to drill. The flexible piece is from McMaster Carr. Stainless exhaust tubing, semi rigid.
It's pretty much perfect. Muffler is only held on with one bolt so that it will turn when i adjust the cutting height. And the semi rigid tubing bends. I can go to 9" or so. Could have cut it different to go deeper but then the tube would get in your way. Could have also put the muffler on the front rail but I figured it would block the view of the wood you're cutting. Probably wouldnt matter that much, though, and might be the better way to go. And I used a big muffler (often called a silencer for 2 strokes) known to be the quietest dirtbike muffler anyone knows of. KTM "hockeystick." Most are about 40% smaller than that, without the bend in it.

 

[Blue42]

Better shot.

 

[Husky Man]

Thanks for the feedback; I already ordered an Oregon 36" bar at 3/8 and .063.

EDIT: I ordered a new 395xp too but it showed up all beat up. I'm returning it. Possibly an exchange. Gives me another chance to consider maybe going to a 572xp, though. I like the idea of the Autotune. Just don't like the idea of not being able to get a 36" bar on it, maybe. At least Oregon doesn't list a 36" one for it.

AFAIK, the 572XP, is a D009 mount (Large Husqvarna) and will interchange bars with any Large Mount Husky saws, including the 3120XP.

Oregon may not "List" a 36" bar for a 572XP, because Husqvarna probably doesn't recommend a 36" bar on a 572XP.

I imagine that a 572XP would oil a 36" bar, but I doubt that I would put anything Bigger on it.

If you need a 36" bar for milling, I would suggest staying with the 395XP, Personally, even if you have to exchange the one you got especially if you will be milling a lot of Hardwoods, just MY Thoughts, Your Money and Choice,


Doug

 

[Assembler]

Thanks for showing the exhaust system you made looks like the flexible piece is from McMaster Carr is what makes it work. A dirt bike exhaust may also work as there is two mounting point in most cases. Just my 2 cents.

 

[Blue42]

That probably answers it then about a 372 with the longer bars.
It was probably good I went with the 395xp, though. I was cutting through a section of the log that would barely fit in the mill, and had a big knot, and the saw was phased and broke a little sweat. When I first took it out of the box and started it and heard the big beast four stroking, I never thought it would even notice it was cutting anything. Would have been a challenge to get through that with less displacement.
Now I just have to figure out how to stop the surface checking I've been getting on all the slabs. Im in the mid atlantic and it isnt low humidity here, but I think I'm going to put a tarp straight on all future pieces for a couple weeks to slow the drying at the surface.

 

[Husky Man]

That probably answers it then about a 372 with the longer bars.
It was probably good I went with the 395xp, though. I was cutting through a section of the log that would barely fit in the mill, and had a big knot, and the saw was phased and broke a little sweat. When I first took it out of the box and started it and heard the big beast four stroking, I never thought it would even notice it was cutting anything. Would have been a challenge to get through that with less displacement.
Now I just have to figure out how to stop the surface checking I've been getting on all the slabs. Im in the mid atlantic and it isnt low humidity here, but I think I'm going to put a tarp straight on all future pieces for a couple weeks to slow the drying at the surface.

I'm still new to milling myself, this is what I have heard many use to prevent end checking:



Google shows it available at Lowe's


Doug

 

[Husky Man]

Blue 42, are you getting checking on the milled surfaces, or just End Checking?


Doug

 

[Assembler]

I plan on writing it all up, complete with parts list and instructions when I get to it. But here is a picture. Took forever to do. Welded most of it together. Have it all wrapped up now in DEI exhaust wrap. Used 304 stainless, which was probably overkill, and stainless is real, real hard to drill. The flexible piece is from McMaster Carr. Stainless exhaust tubing, semi rigid.
It's pretty much perfect. Muffler is only held on with one bolt so that it will turn when i adjust the cutting height. And the semi rigid tubing bends. I can go to 9" or so. Could have cut it different to go deeper but then the tube would get in your way. Could have also put the muffler on the front rail but I figured it would block the view of the wood you're cutting. Probably wouldnt matter that much, though, and might be the better way to go. And I used a big muffler (often called a silencer for 2 strokes) known to be the quietest dirtbike muffler anyone knows of. KTM "hockeystick." Most are about 40% smaller than that, without the bend in it.

This will spur me on to make a similar exhaust system maybe very soon. Thanks.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Absolutely stick with the 395 for milling. As good as the 372 is, its lightly built for 36” milling.

make sure you do the dual port on the muffler.

 

[Blue42]

Blue 42, are you getting checking on the milled surfaces, or just End Checking?


Doug

Both Doug. I painted the ends with latex paint, but probably not soon enough, and only one layer. Didn't cut it. And I read an instruction somewhere that thicker logs need more sealant/layers. I suppose the expansion differential between fast and slow drying areas that much bigger as the log diameter gets bigger. I've read that some people put a layer of the AnchorSeal on any spots on the faces where there is end grain, which makes sense. But I don't have any.
I just finally bit it and forked over $90 for a single gallon of BoraCare. I am going to have to pry the wallet open again I guess to spend $40 on one gallon of anchorseal. I read a bunch about cheaper alternatives and it's probably just not worth the trouble. Same thing for mixing your own Boracare. Not worth the trouble to me, unless I was cutting slabs constantly and really needed five gallons.

 

[AUSSIE1]

Both Doug. I painted the ends with latex paint, but probably not soon enough, and only one layer. Didn't cut it. And I read an instruction somewhere that thicker logs need more sealant/layers. I suppose the expansion differential between fast and slow drying areas that much bigger as the log diameter gets bigger. I've read that some people put a layer of the AnchorSeal on any spots on the faces where there is end grain, which makes sense. But I don't have any.
I just finally bit it and forked over $90 for a single gallon of BoraCare. I am going to have to pry the wallet open again I guess to spend $40 on one gallon of anchorseal. I read a bunch about cheaper alternatives and it's probably just not worth the trouble. Same thing for mixing your own Boracare. Not worth the trouble to me, unless I was cutting slabs constantly and really needed five gallons.

What about heavy black plastic? Tie around the trunk with tie wire tightly.

 

[Blue42]

The plastic would help with ends but I doubt it would keep it from cracking if it still cracked with a layer of latex paint directly on it. I think enough of the moisture would find a way out. Could be wrong though.
However, I think a plastic sheet may be the ticket to stop checking on the faces without having to seal them and defeat the whole purpose since you do want them to dry eventually. I got some construction plastic at 4 mil thickness yesterday to put over the whole stack. Plan to seal it up, a little bit at least, to keep the moisture content higher in there for a while and slow the initial drying.