There is actually a NOS SXL on ebay right now.
Snagged a Homelite Super EZ Automatic
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Here are some pics. There is a very slight mark on the piston at the exh port, but cylinder looks good and at 170-175psi it should be fine. However it doesn't start with a dribble of fuel mix in the carb. tried with/without compression release, still not even a burp. Using a spark tester it should be firing up fine. I need to pick up a new plug to see if that helps. Really surprised at how open the "muffler" is, zero baffles or anything. Nothing to prevent debris from falling in the cylinder
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Some tips from experience with those EZ saws.
They are good saws when all is correct and worth the effort. For fuel lines you can buy a tygon multi-size tubing kit for about $15 and replace the lines. (or go with OEM parts from flea bay. (I seem to think that the OEM correct fuel lines for the EZ's are different.
Tygon F-4040-A PVC Fuel Tubing, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Wall, 5' Length, Yellow
Yep, get a new plug AND
do not dump too much gas into the carb throat or run the piston down and dribble little bit onto the top of the piston with the new properly gapped plug installed.
Set the compression release and sometime what really helps get one going is to gently turn in the the little shiny fast idle throttle set screw at the very front of the handle. You can see it when the breather cover is removed. It is a fine thread so turn it slowly CW several turns. It holds the carbs trigger throttle more open when the trigger lock button is used.
You can re-set it to slower rpms after you get the saw eventually running. Holding the carb throttle more open helps prevent hard start due to flooding.
Them saws when normal and COLD always want a full choke applied with the compression release activated until you get a promise pop, then push the choke to 1/2 choke, and start and leave the 1/2 choke on until the engine gets warm. Some want a 1/2 choke to start even when warmed up. If you see or hear the saw running rich, you forgot to turn the 1/2 choke OFF.
Re-installing those HDC carbs also has a learning curve. More user friendly to remove the compression release and take the handle apart for the re-install. You can go to the Walbro.com site for exploded views and tips and get a kit for about $15. Pay attention to the carb needle, the kits needle may be slightly different length which upset the lever setting. Sometimes them HDC carbs just don't come around easily and are critical on setting the L jet. Don't use hi pressure air on them or place them in a acid bath. If you happen to need another carb try leons or sometimes you can roll the dice and carefully watch flea bay. It's quite common for the EZ's to leak around the jug to block gasket. The 1/2 inch jug nuts need to be checked and tightened if it don't idle correctly.
They are good saws when all is correct and worth the effort. For fuel lines you can buy a tygon multi-size tubing kit for about $15 and replace the lines. (or go with OEM parts from flea bay. (I seem to think that the OEM correct fuel lines for the EZ's are different.
Tygon F-4040-A PVC Fuel Tubing, 3/16" ID, 5/16" OD, 1/16" Wall, 5' Length, Yellow
Yep, get a new plug AND
do not dump too much gas into the carb throat or run the piston down and dribble little bit onto the top of the piston with the new properly gapped plug installed.
Set the compression release and sometime what really helps get one going is to gently turn in the the little shiny fast idle throttle set screw at the very front of the handle. You can see it when the breather cover is removed. It is a fine thread so turn it slowly CW several turns. It holds the carbs trigger throttle more open when the trigger lock button is used.
You can re-set it to slower rpms after you get the saw eventually running. Holding the carb throttle more open helps prevent hard start due to flooding.
Them saws when normal and COLD always want a full choke applied with the compression release activated until you get a promise pop, then push the choke to 1/2 choke, and start and leave the 1/2 choke on until the engine gets warm. Some want a 1/2 choke to start even when warmed up. If you see or hear the saw running rich, you forgot to turn the 1/2 choke OFF.
Re-installing those HDC carbs also has a learning curve. More user friendly to remove the compression release and take the handle apart for the re-install. You can go to the Walbro.com site for exploded views and tips and get a kit for about $15. Pay attention to the carb needle, the kits needle may be slightly different length which upset the lever setting. Sometimes them HDC carbs just don't come around easily and are critical on setting the L jet. Don't use hi pressure air on them or place them in a acid bath. If you happen to need another carb try leons or sometimes you can roll the dice and carefully watch flea bay. It's quite common for the EZ's to leak around the jug to block gasket. The 1/2 inch jug nuts need to be checked and tightened if it don't idle correctly.
I've seen some of them S type clutches with a ear broken off probably due to hammering (whacking on them with a drift chisel or drift punch at the outer end) on them during removal. So keep a heads up when removing.
I've also seen the side cover with a circle eat out of it due to one of the little screws coming loose and rubbing on the aluminum cover. Your does not have the two screws but just saying.
I use a blue locktite on them to keep them secure.
Also if you ever have the flywheel off check them 3 block screws underneath. They will come loose and get into the flywheel. The are threads on this site about such and here is a link to one thread.
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/10482/homelite-super-ez-caved-all
Also here is a link to threads that is dedicated to just the EZ homie saws and EZ huggers
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/board/40/super-ez-auto-family
I've also seen the side cover with a circle eat out of it due to one of the little screws coming loose and rubbing on the aluminum cover. Your does not have the two screws but just saying.
I use a blue locktite on them to keep them secure.
Also if you ever have the flywheel off check them 3 block screws underneath. They will come loose and get into the flywheel. The are threads on this site about such and here is a link to one thread.
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/10482/homelite-super-ez-caved-all
Also here is a link to threads that is dedicated to just the EZ homie saws and EZ huggers
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/board/40/super-ez-auto-family
If you can't get a hit after changing the plug by putting mix down the carb pull the plug and see if it's dry, if so pull the muffler cover and put just a few drops of mix in through the exhaust port and try, if it hits that way then you probably have a reed issue.
Thanks, I pulled the plug (Denso T20M-U, wrong heat range apparently, will get a champion DJ6J or NGK 6421), cleaned it, dribbled some fuel down spark plug hole and it popped over immediately. What a crazy distinctive sound. I'm going to wait until the carb kit comes in to check the reeds but at least I know ignition/etc is working. I still plan to pull the flywheel at some point to check the bolts as Okie suggested. And need to find a clutch cover that is in somewhat similar shape to the rest of the saw. And a bar nut. Thanks all!
Okay so mucking around with dribbling fuel in, figured hell let's put some gas in it see what happens. Started right up, after 5-10 seconds working the throttle it idles and runs GREAT. I'm still going to rebuild that carb, replace all fuel lines and check intake boot, and it needs some tuning in the cut, but can't do anything more until I get a cover. It is LOUD
Once you get it running decent, let it idle and spray some brake cleaner by the clutch side seal. These saws have a rep for seals, especially clutch side going out. That is why I just replaced mine so I didn't have to worry about it. You could do a pressure/vac test but it's hard to get the decomp to seal up completely on these saws so it's very hard to get an accurate reading doing the test.
Yes, like I said these saws have a cool sound.
Yes, like I said these saws have a cool sound.
Just some general info to kick around:
If it is idling and tuning good you might think about just leaving the carb as is for awhile and check other things like the 4 jug nuts, do the tip sideways tests to see if idling changes which indicates maybe seals leaking (especially the clutch side seal) which if changing the chain tension causes idling changes is another indicator of the clutch side seal dried out and as lostone says about the decomp valve always leaks when trying to do a pressure vac test, but it will not bother the actual running and starting. After you think it's running good eventually pull the flywheel and check them 3 phillips head type block screws.
I got some of them saws, one I bought new back in about 1974 area and it's still a good runner and only one carb kit and a few new chains is all it's ever needed.. Storing in a hot building and not starting them very often during storage it what seems to weaken them the most.
I use the aggressive cut chains (instead of the low kickback type) on all of mine with a 16 inch bar and they get a workout as the lighter weight limb trimmers after the tree is down during firewood season. Some of mine have the spikes but really do not need such if the chain is sharp and aggressive cut type. I usually use the bigger heavier more powerful 20 inch up saws for felling and cutting up the trunk section of a larger tree.
Some of the HDC kits that are not Walbro are really iffy and not quite correct. Close but, but.
The $16 OEM WALBRO K10HDC kit is more reliable but also keep a heads up about the needle size. If you drop a new needle in and the metering lever Heigth changes is a heads up that something is amiss. Here is a Walbro.com service manual link to get Walbro IPLs for their carbhttps://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/s or if this link don't fly just search Walbro.com service manuals and then click on HDC. I think some EZ's used maybe a Walbro SDC and some older EZ's may have had a Tillotson carb
AND two type of the HDC a dependent and independent as explained at the Walbro site and in the link I provided about how to pressure test.
Also here is a link to some good info about how to pressure/vac test the HDC carbs.
Little bit more info here in this thread than on Leon's video site about them. You can also nose around on searches and find info about testing the carb's check valves which were not really intended to be a serviceable item.
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/10216/homelite-procedure-carburetor-pressure-testing
If it is idling and tuning good you might think about just leaving the carb as is for awhile and check other things like the 4 jug nuts, do the tip sideways tests to see if idling changes which indicates maybe seals leaking (especially the clutch side seal) which if changing the chain tension causes idling changes is another indicator of the clutch side seal dried out and as lostone says about the decomp valve always leaks when trying to do a pressure vac test, but it will not bother the actual running and starting. After you think it's running good eventually pull the flywheel and check them 3 phillips head type block screws.
I got some of them saws, one I bought new back in about 1974 area and it's still a good runner and only one carb kit and a few new chains is all it's ever needed.. Storing in a hot building and not starting them very often during storage it what seems to weaken them the most.
I use the aggressive cut chains (instead of the low kickback type) on all of mine with a 16 inch bar and they get a workout as the lighter weight limb trimmers after the tree is down during firewood season. Some of mine have the spikes but really do not need such if the chain is sharp and aggressive cut type. I usually use the bigger heavier more powerful 20 inch up saws for felling and cutting up the trunk section of a larger tree.
Some of the HDC kits that are not Walbro are really iffy and not quite correct. Close but, but.
The $16 OEM WALBRO K10HDC kit is more reliable but also keep a heads up about the needle size. If you drop a new needle in and the metering lever Heigth changes is a heads up that something is amiss. Here is a Walbro.com service manual link to get Walbro IPLs for their carbhttps://www.walbro.com/service-manuals/s or if this link don't fly just search Walbro.com service manuals and then click on HDC. I think some EZ's used maybe a Walbro SDC and some older EZ's may have had a Tillotson carb
AND two type of the HDC a dependent and independent as explained at the Walbro site and in the link I provided about how to pressure test.
Also here is a link to some good info about how to pressure/vac test the HDC carbs.
Little bit more info here in this thread than on Leon's video site about them. You can also nose around on searches and find info about testing the carb's check valves which were not really intended to be a serviceable item.
https://houseofhomelite.proboards.com/thread/10216/homelite-procedure-carburetor-pressure-testing
Here's a bit more free advice and take it for what you paid for it.
1. If you remove the clutch, when you go to re-install it make sure you either remove the recoil cover or pull some rope out, use a knotted pull cord in the spark plug hole as a piston stop and tighten that clutch back in place or the first time you hit the throttle and clutch WILL come lose and chew the inside of the clutch cover.
2. If you have the S-type clutch an easy tool for loosening or tightening the clutch is to use a 4 1/2 inch grinder two prong wrench unless you want to modify a 11/16 socket. If you ever find the three shoe style on the SEZ you can use a Husky 372 clutch tool and just use a dremel tool and grind a small arch on the inside of the prongs (they are flat from Husky) and it works great and you can still use it on the Husky.
3. If you decide you want to convert over to rim/drum it takes a Oregon 17986r but make sure someone didn't lose the bushing adapter for the bearing. This is how I converted mine over to .325 I just changed out the 3/8 rim for a .325 rim.
4. When putting on the clutch cover, along the top edge of the clutch cover there is a lip that steps down, make sure the lip tucks under the saw housing before tightening the nuts or it will break either the cover or the part of the housing it tucks under on the saw.
1. If you remove the clutch, when you go to re-install it make sure you either remove the recoil cover or pull some rope out, use a knotted pull cord in the spark plug hole as a piston stop and tighten that clutch back in place or the first time you hit the throttle and clutch WILL come lose and chew the inside of the clutch cover.
2. If you have the S-type clutch an easy tool for loosening or tightening the clutch is to use a 4 1/2 inch grinder two prong wrench unless you want to modify a 11/16 socket. If you ever find the three shoe style on the SEZ you can use a Husky 372 clutch tool and just use a dremel tool and grind a small arch on the inside of the prongs (they are flat from Husky) and it works great and you can still use it on the Husky.
3. If you decide you want to convert over to rim/drum it takes a Oregon 17986r but make sure someone didn't lose the bushing adapter for the bearing. This is how I converted mine over to .325 I just changed out the 3/8 rim for a .325 rim.
4. When putting on the clutch cover, along the top edge of the clutch cover there is a lip that steps down, make sure the lip tucks under the saw housing before tightening the nuts or it will break either the cover or the part of the housing it tucks under on the saw.
I have 2 SEZ. One is like new, got it from a dealer. A Dr. owned it and dropped it off for a broken clutch shoe in ‘87. Then he bought a new one. I put a new shoe in it and fuel and it fired right up. As others said, in good condition these saws pump a lot of pressure. Mine has over 175psi. Very well made. I’ve always considered these not related to the super XL but rather the 923/925 saws. The design is almost identical but smaller
That 923 is actually a 925 SXL. Has the thin rings and oval port. Not much info on them
That 923 is actually a 925 SXL. Has the thin rings and oval port. Not much info on them
You also might try a SAVED SEARCH on flea bay.
As the guys say, look closely at the pic's, their feedback and the type of other things the seller has listed.
Also keep a eye peeled, sometimes you can buy a whole saw for parts more reasonable than buying pieces one at a time. (and have additional spare parts)
Do not expect to buy a non-problem saw from flea bay. Some parts of these saws are consumable type parts and are worn out so shop and buy accordingly.
As the guys say, look closely at the pic's, their feedback and the type of other things the seller has listed.
Also keep a eye peeled, sometimes you can buy a whole saw for parts more reasonable than buying pieces one at a time. (and have additional spare parts)
Do not expect to buy a non-problem saw from flea bay. Some parts of these saws are consumable type parts and are worn out so shop and buy accordingly.
