Ok Been away a good while. Busy with nonchainsaw aspects of life...
Where I left off... basically. Had gotten a rebuild kit for my XL2 with plans to clean the carb, pull the welch plugs and do the full dohicky (Still need to rebuild that)... Also kind of suspecting I might need to replace that duck bill thing in the cap (honestly haven't even looked at it but there was a comment in a thread basically saying they have had to replace that part in 100% of old homelites to get them to work... and I do recall the gas cap being loose changing the saw behavior in a way that makes me suspect that could be part of it).
And the 1130g I had gotten the check valve free and working and saw was running... but gas tank leaked.
I broke down and bought a new gas tank... It was missing the gas line barb... but I was able to desolder the one from the old tank and use it... Gas leak fixed... But there were 2-3 months of the saw sitting before I got to it and when I went to start it up... it would only fire with gas in the throat and then die when it burnt up... Rebuilt the carb again, played around a bunch... pulled both welch plugs and made sure to clean under them, etc... Several hours fiddling and it only started and idled when L was tuned CRAAAAAZY rich... and Instantly died when I gave it any throttle. Basically behaving like I've seen on other saws when the lever arm was set waaaay off... Confirmed lever arm was set right about ten times and no change. Recleaned and rebuilt carb... Pulled welch plugs again... confirmed check valve worked. Checked fuel delivery (filter, inner line, outer line) a dozen times. Broke my pull cord 3x fighting with the saw and fixed that. Welch plug over the check valve wont stay in place... falls off if I poke it with my finger lightly... the carb body where it seats has a bit of damage so it doesn't seat correctly. Removed it (it was missing when the saw was running before) and still not working...
Gave up and tried to solder the check valve closed as I saw some people say that's the fix to avoid having to deal with it... Used too much solder and I think it blocked the entire H fuel path... Took the Solder out... and put the check valve/screen/clip back in... No welch plug for over that check valve... put everything back together with that welch plug missing (Interesting note... BOTH welch plugs were missing when I got the saw, but I have one over the L fuel path now)... and now it's back to running (seemingly... Still gotta put bar and chain back on, but It starts, idles and revs fine PHO... and the Tuning on the L is much closer to normal/expected (1-2 turns CCW... was at 3.5-4 before when it would just idle and not rev).
Damn near killed myself (with exhaustion/soreness, not literally) fighting with the thing and I'm pretty sick atm... so not gonna get the B&C back on for a bit... but after many hours across 3 weekends... it finally is acting like a saw that works again.
Next step was gonna be dropping another $100+ to replace the carb... so really hopeful/glad if I can avoid that. This saw has been the death of a thousand cuts when it comes to the costs of replacement parts. I remember looking up the piston when I bought it and finding them at not too bad prices... then of course turns out that Piston (which is fine) was the odd part out for being cheap... Gas Tank and Carb are absurdly expensive.