So bought a chinese saw (holz g070)

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That's logical.

Haven't done a crank seal replacement yet; so it will be a learning experience.

I'll probably teflon the adjustment screws to ensure they're not just shaking out; and grab a new filter and line; then plan to replace the seals.

I've not noticed any play in the clutch or flywheel; but I'll check them later today.
 
Super xl again today... So refilled it, richened up the L maybe 1/16 Turn before starting it... reduced idle throttle a tad when it idled... did one cut... felt rich, leaned H a 1/8 turn. Cut 2.... too lean... 1/16 richer high. Finished the log, 3or 4 more cuts. Decided to do rotate test... rpms dropped slowly when rotated to the right. Did one more log now 15 mins or so running... rotating stopped affecting rpm. Shut it down for a few minutes. Top off gas, Start it up and do one more log. running like a champ. Other than maybe being a little more finite when adjusting tuning, really didn't do anything different today. Maybe fuel line starting to clear up some obstruction as I get fresh gas through it? Maybe the fix to the carb lever arm had to sit awhile to settle in? Dumb luck and it'll be back to being finicky tomorrow? Who knows, but ran great today.
 
Rebuilt the carb for the 1130 G, the rebuild kit did not include the parts for the regulator in the carb, so hopefully it's not stuck open like I hear they have a tendency to become. If it is then I'll have to order those parts or a new carburetor.

I thought that the gas tank was clean, but it was just dry. There was some black tar like substance accumulated at the bottom and stuck to the fuel filter so I am going to buy a new fuel filter. I chiseled as much of that stuff out as I could now I'm giving the tank a rinse with gas and trying to scrub off the last of it. It's a texture of clay and sticky, just like tar.

Once the fuel filter gets here I'll be able to see if the carb works or if I need to replace that regulating assembly inside it.
 
1130g:

So gear box was drained... with just a dab of oil when I dumped it that seemed pretty clean/new.

Took a TON of oil to fill... big ol gear box.

I spilled some; so not sure, but possibly a slow leak out the sprocket side... was oily after filling... or maybe I just spilled some there. Gonna let it sit and check later to confirm.

Checked Spark, Good.

Fired it on mix in carb, Good.

Fuel line fell off the tank barb while I was shaking out the rinse gas, so definitely needs new fuel line and filter. Ordered.
 
Took the week off for the holiday... so been getting some milling done. I'm happy with the holzfforma g070 on the mill for now. Starts in 4 pulls and no problems except the occasional screw or bolt still Jostling loose if I let the rakers get too high...

Got the fuel line and filter for the 1130g and started to dismantle the tank to get at the fuel outlet barb... two screws were siezed so I drilled them out... then removed it to access the bottom screws and noticed the plug that means I dont have to open up the tank... so a bit mad at myself for scuffing up the tank trying to remove the screws now. Anyway, the gasket on that plug was fully disintegrated, so I stuck an o ring and if that leaks, I'll need to cut a gasket for there.... also my outside line was wrong size (bought 5/16 need 1/4)... so waiting on replacement line, then check for leaks, reinstall and see if it's working.

I have 2 logs that I'll need this saw (with its 44inch bar) to slab out... but otherwise, the 070 has finished up the massive silver maple I was working on.

Still haven't tuned the pm177, will probably take an hour in early December to take it out and get it tuned.
 
So the gas tank leaked from the seam... could be because I tried drilling out some of the screws; but after a NIGHTMARE of a time getting the rest of the screws out; the gasket was half missing it was so destroyed.

But I DID finally get it apart... Unfortunately; getting the stuck screws out did chip off a bit of the tank around one... so now I have to attempt to repair that with some Steelstick. That should be here tomorrow...

Then once that's done, I have to cut out a replacement gasket and replace all the screws and get this thing put back together and HOPEFULLY it won't leak.
 
So the patches are done... Just gotta let them dry, some sanding and make sure the screws all still line up.
Gasket material should be here early next week then I can cut the gasket and get it all reassembled and check if the leaks are gone.
Got some red enamel paint just to protect the areas I sanded and cover up the patch... don't care so much if it's a perfect match... Rustoleum gloss red... probably close enough I won't notice a difference.
 
Ok Been away a good while. Busy with nonchainsaw aspects of life...


Where I left off... basically. Had gotten a rebuild kit for my XL2 with plans to clean the carb, pull the welch plugs and do the full dohicky (Still need to rebuild that)... Also kind of suspecting I might need to replace that duck bill thing in the cap (honestly haven't even looked at it but there was a comment in a thread basically saying they have had to replace that part in 100% of old homelites to get them to work... and I do recall the gas cap being loose changing the saw behavior in a way that makes me suspect that could be part of it).

And the 1130g I had gotten the check valve free and working and saw was running... but gas tank leaked.

I broke down and bought a new gas tank... It was missing the gas line barb... but I was able to desolder the one from the old tank and use it... Gas leak fixed... But there were 2-3 months of the saw sitting before I got to it and when I went to start it up... it would only fire with gas in the throat and then die when it burnt up... Rebuilt the carb again, played around a bunch... pulled both welch plugs and made sure to clean under them, etc... Several hours fiddling and it only started and idled when L was tuned CRAAAAAZY rich... and Instantly died when I gave it any throttle. Basically behaving like I've seen on other saws when the lever arm was set waaaay off... Confirmed lever arm was set right about ten times and no change. Recleaned and rebuilt carb... Pulled welch plugs again... confirmed check valve worked. Checked fuel delivery (filter, inner line, outer line) a dozen times. Broke my pull cord 3x fighting with the saw and fixed that. Welch plug over the check valve wont stay in place... falls off if I poke it with my finger lightly... the carb body where it seats has a bit of damage so it doesn't seat correctly. Removed it (it was missing when the saw was running before) and still not working...

Gave up and tried to solder the check valve closed as I saw some people say that's the fix to avoid having to deal with it... Used too much solder and I think it blocked the entire H fuel path... Took the Solder out... and put the check valve/screen/clip back in... No welch plug for over that check valve... put everything back together with that welch plug missing (Interesting note... BOTH welch plugs were missing when I got the saw, but I have one over the L fuel path now)... and now it's back to running (seemingly... Still gotta put bar and chain back on, but It starts, idles and revs fine PHO... and the Tuning on the L is much closer to normal/expected (1-2 turns CCW... was at 3.5-4 before when it would just idle and not rev).

Damn near killed myself (with exhaustion/soreness, not literally) fighting with the thing and I'm pretty sick atm... so not gonna get the B&C back on for a bit... but after many hours across 3 weekends... it finally is acting like a saw that works again.

Next step was gonna be dropping another $100+ to replace the carb... so really hopeful/glad if I can avoid that. This saw has been the death of a thousand cuts when it comes to the costs of replacement parts. I remember looking up the piston when I bought it and finding them at not too bad prices... then of course turns out that Piston (which is fine) was the odd part out for being cheap... Gas Tank and Carb are absurdly expensive.
 

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