So now that my Stihl MS170 starts...

[MyStihlWontStart]

I'm starting to sense trolling activity...

No I sincerely need help. I spent a lot if time getting this thing started. Turned out I was flooding it waiting for the burp. I owe u guys for the help, thank u.

 

[MyStihlWontStart]

So, you go into Home Depot to buy a lawn mower. They tell you that the most common one is the 5hp push mower with a 22" blade. You take it with you and come back a week later and say this thing isn't really working out for me. The salesman asks what you've been mowing? You reply, "My golf course".
That's the scenario you are painting here...

OK, please everyone stop being judgemental. I found this site googling because I couldn't start my saw. No one is born knowing about chainsawing. I just thought that a 16 bar would do it. The power head part didn't come into play.

 

[Roll Tide]

You need to do much more research before cutting anything.

 

[MyStihlWontStart]

You need to do much more research before cutting anything.

Yah, I just recently learned back cut and face cut. I didn't realize tree cutting was so complex. I thought u just cut the thing through.

 

[Gologit]

Yah, I just recently learned back cut and face cut. I didn't realize tree cutting was so complex. I thought u just cut the through.

Okay, that does it. I'm going back to the F&L forum where things make sense. Most of the time anyway.

 

[Roll Tide]

Yah, I just recently learned back cut and face cut. I didn't realize tree cutting was so complex. I thought u just cut the through.

So did most of the people who smashed their car, house, self

 

[MyStihlWontStart]

Okay, that does it. I'm going back to the F&L forum where things make sense. Most of the time anyway.

What is F&L? Is facecut backcut wrong?

 

[expy]

This thread needs more Cowbell!

 

[SEAM]

The MS170 is a best seller because it is bought by people that know nothing about saws and trees but feel that they need a saw and buy the cheapest quality product available just to have one sit in the shed for eventualities like cutting a few branches here and there around the house. I wouldn't want to depend on a MS170 for firewood. I cut most of my firewood with an 017 (same saw just older) for one season - it can be done, but it is no fun.
For starters, you would never want to push on the MS170 when cutting. It has a tiny engine that will stall easily. Keep the chain spinning as much as possible - and keep the chain very sharp!!

Good luck...

PS: Trees tend to be very heavy, and felling them can be an extremely dangerous task best left to a professional. Try YouTube searching for "tree felling wrong" or "tree accident" and the like.

 

[expy]

Do you guys really think a Dealer would sell a 30cc saw to cut 30" Oaks? The OP is just having fun with you guys and he is very creative in his story telling. It is very entertaining but this thread is like watching reality TV.

 

[.404]

What is F&L? Is facecut backcut wrong?

No I sincerely need help.

Stihlwontstart, I'll try to help you Bud. Have you adjusted the carb screws any when you do get it to run? As a side note, dropping trees is real dangerous, you need to get some basics on the ground to grasp the physics of it then move on. You can cut a 30" tree with any sharp saw and 16" bar that runs if you've mastered the preliminaries, but a stalled saw is gonna get ya in a real bind.

First things first; RELAX.

 

[MyStihlWontStart]

Stihlwontstart, I'll try to help you Bud. Have you adjusted the carb screws any when you do get it to run? As a side note, dropping trees is real dangerous, you need to get some basics on the ground to grasp the physics of it then move on. You can cut a 30" tree with any sharp saw and 16" bar that runs if you've mastered the preliminaries, but a stalled saw is gonna get ya in a real bind.

First things first; RELAX.

No, where are carb screws and what do they do? Idle?

 

[Roll Tide]

[QUOTE=".404, post: 5275618, member: 131991"stihlwontstart, I'll try to help you Bud. Have you adjusted the carb screws any when you do get it to run? As a side note, dropping trees is real dangerous, you need to get some basics on the ground to grasp the physics of it then move on. You can cut a 30" tree with any sharp saw and 16" bar that runs if you've mastered the preliminaries, but a stalled saw is gonna get ya in a real bind.

First things first; RELAX.[/QUOTE]
You start cutting 30 " trees with a 170 and youll be buying a new one soon.

 

[KenJax Tree]

[emoji23] this is gettin' good

 

[.404]

I don't have to do either (cut them with a 170 or buy another saw), Roll Tide. I've got what it takes.

He's got Pines. Sorry but cutting trees isn't that hard. SWS just needs to start low and slow. Not everyone starts out at an advantage.

 

[SEAM]

The MS170 carb only has an idle screw - not much to adjust on that saw...

 

[.404]

The MS170 carb only has an idle screw - not much to adjust on that saw...

One screw that's it? lol

No, where are carb screws and what do they do? Idle?

Read the manual, Bud. Then come back with the right questions.

http://www.stihlusa.com/WebContent/...s/ms-170-180-chain-saw-instruction-manual.pdf

 

[1Alpha1]

When it comes to falling trees, there's only one thing that you can count on happening each and every time.

It's called "gravity", and it doesn't always work the way you'd like.

 

[BlueLude2001]

Ha. Return current saw. Buy a ms661cm with an 18" bar. Cut down all the trees.









*cough*troll

 

[MyStihlWontStart]

Just posted my first full tree felling