My Solo Twin gas tank has a huge split in it as well. It comes from people leaving them sitting with gas in them and temperature changes make the tank swell and collapse.
Solo Twin....FINALLY!!!
- Thread starter blsnelling
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My Solo Twin gas tank has a huge split in it as well. It comes from people leaving them sitting with gas in them and temperature changes make the tank swell and collapse.
cedarshark
Addicted to ArboristSite
I thought the tank vent is there to prevent this from occuring and maintain atmospheric pressure in the tank ?
I am very interested in how the ignition mouse nest works out
The parts are all cleaned up, boxed up, and ready to head to Mike.
Here is the most serious defect I now have to deal with. The clutch cover had previously been repaired. I was hoping that it was only crack, but expected to find metal actually missing. That was indeed the case.
I talked to Mike, and the parts will be heated to 380°F for 10 minutes. If the filler in this part could withstand that heat, I might consider leaving most of it there, and simply skimming it with the filler he uses that will accept the powder. So, I put it in the over. Major fail. The filler fell out in it's entirety. What are the possibilities of welding replacement metal where the original metal is missing?
I talked to Mike, and the parts will be heated to 380°F for 10 minutes. If the filler in this part could withstand that heat, I might consider leaving most of it there, and simply skimming it with the filler he uses that will accept the powder. So, I put it in the over. Major fail. The filler fell out in it's entirety. What are the possibilities of welding replacement metal where the original metal is missing?
komatsuvarna
Arboristsite MVP
Id think it could be done. I know if it was steel I could fix it easily and not be noticed. Aluminum or Magnesium?
It depends on the base material. If it's a common alloy then it's an easy fix. You just cut thin strips of a matching alloy and build the area up with several passes. If it's "pot metal" , that's problematic.
I tried to get a broken 07-S shroud repaired years ago but it was an unknown pot metal and didn't turn out too well.
Four Paws
Addicted to ArboristSite
Easy repair for a good welder with a TIG. Use magnesium filler rod.
If I were you I would get ahold of Scarr...send him your part and whatever he is gonna charge you plus a little beer money, and feel confident that you will get back a properly repaired cover.
That's what I like to hear. I'm assuming this is the same mag alloy that most saws are cast from. This piece is .080"-.085" thick. Replacement pieces wouldn't have to be the same exact thickness. The back side obviously won't show. Also, I can do a little "body work" with the filler Mike's sending me.
I would not use replacement pieces but fill the whole thing with filler rod. You would need the part that it is mated to also so that the correct length and width is correct. One example.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
I hate how no matter how hard you try with mag you always seem to have some pits from the impurities. You end up touching it up after blending welds to try to get the big pits out.
Oh yea. I have welded the same area up to 3 times trying to get it perfect. That is one reason I like to
shape the part after welding so that I can find the imperfections and weld them again a little better.
drf255
BAD CAD
Brad, if you could mock up some steel or copper to match the inside curves, that can be done with AC tig.
Mg filler rod is some pricey stuff though. Over $100 for a pound of wire.
You need someone really good that won't screw up that irreplaceable part.
Mg filler rod is some pricey stuff though. Over $100 for a pound of wire.
You need someone really good that won't screw up that irreplaceable part.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
No need to use a backer with a tig welder. You can just make multiple passes and grow the material up.
AZ92A filler rod goes for ~$75 a pound.
drf255
BAD CAD
Hmmm...
You must be better than me. .080 Mg or Al?
Build up entire curvature free hand with no backer?
Good Luck.
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
Hmmm...
You must be better than me. .080 Mg or Al?
Build up entire curvature free hand with no backer?
Good Luck.
Not saying it's easy but with mag it's hard enough to get a decent weld without pores. With a backer on it and I'd have to pass back over that whole side to bubble out the pores and add filler to float the contaminates up to the top. So instead I'll opt to build up the material about 1/4" thick the whole way and then shape it back down to the correct size, just like in the example that 3000 FPS posted.
With proper care and willingness to finish your weld a lot of things can be recreated.
This whole corner was missing.
drf255
BAD CAD
Those are great repairs above. but I cant see how you'd float that entire cover out.
So you'd weld it all .250 thick, then grind it all down to .080?
So you'd weld it all .250 thick, then grind it all down to .080?
srcarr52
We can't stop here, this is bat country.
Because there is about 2" that needs to be built up around 1/4"-3/8", and then there is the corner which needs a lot. All of which has original material to follow or extrapolate off.
Yes, I would over build the area missing and back onto the existing material to assure good bonding. The weld would end up around 1/4" thick where there is a lot missing. Then I'd finish it down to close what the original thickness is, most likely between 0.100" and 0.120" thick.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
Shawn can do it !!!!!
Nice thread.
Nice thread.
drf255
BAD CAD
Interesting. I'd like to see more of your work in some threads. Don't want to hijack this one.
I have a 300 amp AC/DC inverter tig. I've done lots of aluminum, but never Mag. Is it "stickier", or does it want to run away from you like Aluminum?
