solving the pinching issue with polesaws

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treeminator

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does anyone sell polesaws where the top part is bent or angled to prevent the pinching? i'm about to cut, weld, and rig the hell out of mine if i can't find something sold on the retail market.

what do you guys do to solve the pinching polesaw issue?
 
A long enough pole to pick a cut angle that will minimise twisting of the limb...

(I reckon an extra bend will just make sawing really hard)
 
all makes sense IF you were up in the tree, but what about the limbs needing cut directly from the ground. the pole saw needs to be bent at the upper end otherwise you are cutting vertically.
 
Some blades do have a pretty serous curve to them, that, or adjustable blade positions. I find that the more you curve the blade, the harder it is to get a full stroke of the blade across the wood.
My climbing pole saw is adjusted very straight, while the ground pole saw has more curve.
 
"Nature, to be commanded, must be obeyed" -Sir Francis Bacon

My cartoon imagery i visualize as i invoke these mechanix:

The direction of the pulling force of gravity is down; everything is in relationship to this force. i assume we are talking about more horizontal limbs, that are more leveraged weight against the vertical gravity force.

Cutting super fast on small light piece with chainsaw can give instantaneous release so quick it can't rip in right circumstance of speed/ power vs. uncut limb size and leverage.

Cutting straight down places width as more leverage to resist across pulls. But cutting s-lightly across places more of a vertical column of hinge at finish, this has more resistance against vertical axis pulls; that gravity pulls down on. At the hair line where the size of the branch begins to exceed vertical cut strategy's non-rip; can sprinkle in more previously mentioned speed factor; to avoid rip for another range of increasing size/ leveraged branch.

No undercut allows the tension and compression to get real close for no leverage before tearoff, and connected compression tissue to cause rip. The distance betwixt compression and tension is the amount of leveraged multiplier the tension has to support limb. Less multiplier, more tensioned force for same work of support.

Undercutting, allows the gravity direction force to pinch the undercut close, giving push up of support. The outside closes first, and then there is leverage from that pivot to the top of the backcut. The compression pivot (pushes together on own) does not have to be connected, but the upper tension must be connected(is trying to pull apart). So, if we make a deeper undercut, this spreads the pivot of the outside, lower circumference at close farther from the connected piece where mechanix can take a larger amount of leverage before tearoff at end of connection. This places less tension on the connected hold right before tearoff, so there is more of an instantaneous release; more likely to go straight down. The sudden drop, and disconnected tension tissue allow for less chance of rip.

Dan does it write, cutting off leveraged end for less tension/ chance of rip on finishing cut. Alternatively, we can reduce leverage greatly, by cutting down or across a little distance from finishing cut, then follow other pro-cedures with less leveraged load from same branch trying to rip cut!

If the CG of branch is off to side, favour undercutting more to that side, for more support; then back cutting, close this side first to give more pushup; and trigger release from other side with backcut.



i think a curved blade on down or across cut allows more shoulder to be put into it; as shoulder is at angle lower angle then cutting part of blade, but makes it harder on undercutting; as same mechanix now stands against ye.

Orrrr sometin'like that:dizzy:
 
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TROLL TROLL look at the name

I tie a Craftsman saw onto a long stick and then have my climber put on a pair of stilts so he can hold the saw high enough not to pinch......sound good....get lost troll.
 
treeminator said:
all makes sense IF you were up in the tree, but what about the limbs needing cut directly from the ground. the pole saw needs to be bent at the upper end otherwise you are cutting vertically.


Solution, never cut like that. Stand to the side, use a longer pole, or an orchard ladder. If you did adjust the saw blade to have a positive rake angle much over 12 degrees, it will attempt to dig in too much and you won't be able to cut anything.
 
one of your best posts yet, clearance......and my post above was maybe my first not accusing this fool of trolling.....

he is good for a daily laugh tho!!:givebeer:
 
You could just stand the ladder on the roof of the truck.
That way the brush would fall into the truck ,
Eliminating the need for a ground crew.
Speaking of brush...
What about just using a cheap lawnmower to mulch the brush pile.
No need for one of them there fancy chippin machines
 
treeminator said:
does anyone sell polesaws where the top part is bent or angled to prevent the pinching? i'm about to cut, weld, and rig the hell out of mine if i can't find something sold on the retail market.

what do you guys do to solve the pinching polesaw issue?

I'd suggest you ask one of your ex burger flippin salesman you have on your team. Surely if they're out there selling the work then they'd know the ins and outs of getting it done efficiently. If not try clearance's idea, that sounds safe and profitable!:laugh:

Trev
 
Good posts all around. Standard blades are adjustable, butI don't bother, cause the steeper angle that would speed up one cut would just hinder the next. Medium setting. I use a wooden pole, so I can flex it for decent cuts way out or way up. If I get pinched, I'll have another one sent to me, but I don't like having two pole saws in the tree for very long. Some of your jameson type poles have similar flex, but they are heavier.
 
rebelman said:
Some of your jameson type poles have similar flex, but they are heavier.

Have you tried their telescoping poles? If you can adjust the length you can more easily adjust the angle.
 
TheTreeSpyder said:
"Nature, to be commanded, must be obeyed" -Sir Francis Bacon


If the CG of branch is off to side, favour undercutting more to that side, for more support; then back cutting, close this side first to give more pushup; and trigger release from other side with backcut.

I'll be darned. Good forum, when even a Troll question can flush out some good advice.
 
treeseer said:
Have you tried their telescoping poles? If you can adjust the length you can more easily adjust the angle.

Ive used the jameson adjustables and if you do too much pulling hangers, they tend to start slipping. Too when they are fully extended, seem kind of sloppy, almost too weak. Other than that, they are nice to have the extension built in for that in-between length.
 
If there is enough weight to pinch the saw then there should be enough weight to break the limb off after you shoot it with a 30.06. We use this method all the time.:chainsaw:
 
Blake22 said:
If there is enough weight to pinch the saw then there should be enough weight to break the limb off after you shoot it with a 30.06. We use this method all the time.:chainsaw:

Man, surely you jest, but I'm afraid someone will take you seriously. We have injuries and holes in people's roofs every year in New Orleans from people shooting their guns in the air for New Year and July 4 celebrations. An '06 slug can travel a long way and come down with a lot of energy, even after it cuts a branch (assuming you never miss).
 
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