Some amateur sharpening questions

[StoneyMeadowMaple]

Not me, but I have an older friend who needs some help, I have never understood people who burn wood their whole lives and don’t know how to care for their tools. He burned up a Jonsered 2152C and ended up with a 545xp I stopped to visit today and while helping bring in wood i picked up the 2 year old saw and checked it out.
I gave him a hard time, and took his chain, bar, and spare to grind it. But he has requested a filing tutorial, which I intend to give him. Along with my standard lecture about proper cleaning and fuel maintenance.
I see the timberline sharpeners and they look relatively simple, some of the threads here I see talk about the holes getting wallered out. Others say you will damage the cutter if you turn backwards. I do wonder if he would do better with it.
Does anyone have firsthand experience with one? Are they easier or just not worth troubling with.

 

[SteveSr]

First he needs to stop hitting the ground!... And start using semi-chisel chain.

 

[mudfly]

I have a Timberline. Thought it would be the ticket to getting a sharp chain. Controlled sharpening almost like a machinist. Found out they are pain in the rear to set up, and you have to keep all your cutters exactly the same. Might be ok if starting with a factory chain and only using the Timberline, but it was near impossible to start on a chain that had been hand filed. Used it twice I think and went back to hand filing.

For a novice I recommend the Stihl 2-n-1 sharpeners, or the pferd brand. Seems to me that they are the easiest to learn and most foolproof, although I’m sure there is someone out there that can mess them up also.

 

[PV Hiker]

I bought the Timberline years ago to give it a go. Takes some time to align it while mounting. I have used it when needed to take a good amount of cutter back on other's used rocked chains and used a variable speed small cordless drill helped. I just have not used it the last few years as with a file can get through just as fast or faster.

I have heard good things on the 2-n-1 filers. If that can be used by your friend might get a sharp usable chain.

I have seen online that using them you don't have to use the round file and flat file at the same time. Lift the flat to get the cutter shaped then set depth gauge with a few more passes with the flat file laying down.

As SteveSr said, teach him saw/tip control to keep it out of the dirt. That will go a long way having a sharp chain longer. Show the user that a flat file can be used on a rocked cutter to file it back, then use the round file to get the angles correct. Then set depth gauge for the material taken back to clean up the rocked cutter distance.

Your correct to lecture him and good for you to take the time to cover saw usage, maintenance and filling chains. I hope it sticks and becomes a habit for him.

 

[StoneyMeadowMaple]

First he needs to stop hitting the ground!... And start using semi-chisel chain.

That is semi chisel… now…

 

[StoneyMeadowMaple]

I have a Timberline. Thought it would be the ticket to getting a sharp chain. Controlled sharpening almost like a machinist. Found out they are pain in the rear to set up, and you have to keep all your cutters exactly the same. Might be ok if starting with a factory chain and only using the Timberline, but it was near impossible to start on a chain that had been hand filed. Used it twice I think and went back to hand filing.

For a novice I recommend the Stihl 2-n-1 sharpeners, or the pferd brand. Seems to me that they are the easiest to learn and most foolproof, although I’m sure there is someone out there that can mess them up also.

I have to go to the Stihl dealer this week and will look at the 2 in 1.

 

[Patrick62]

no substitute for practice. All the gadgets in the world won't help if you don't really know what you are looking for.
I am a big fan of learn to freehand file. Atleast well enough to make some chips.
That chain is bad, but I have seen worse. a lot worse.

 

[Tomos770]

Regarding chainsaws....I prefer Husqvarna....but when buying sharpening tools....Stihl is the No.1

 

[J D]

I find the little roller guides Husky make quite good. I think Bacho make something similar too

 

[Husky77]

I'm going to be quite negative here, mainly because your "old" friend has been doing it all his life. He has a good saw that will soon blow up if he dont take notice. Sorry if this is a negative post bit I have had it all with my brother in law, for years I have kept his saw running and tried to keep him sharp but no more, I have had enough. Poor fuel cheap oil no maintenance until it stops.... you know the score.
So forget telling your friend about chain files a sharp chain will probably be lost on him. Tell him to get a cheap chain grinder, setting up and walk away. The frustration and hassle is just not worth it. Life is too short to waste on some that never learn.

 

[whodatschrome]

I bought a Stihl 2 in 1 sharpener a little over a year ago. I couldn’t figure out how the darn thing worked. Turned out it isn’t compatible with every chain. I had a very old random stihl chain that the file didn’t line up with very well. I also had to watch a few youtube videos to see how you’re supposed to hold the file. I’m now REALLY liking the file. I have one for my 3/8” chains and one for my .325 chains.

Of course i still takes elbow grease to sharpen the chains, so if you’re friend isn’t too keen on maintenance, then buying the hand files are a waste.

 

[SteveSr]

I have to go to the Stihl dealer this week and will look at the 2 in 1.

The 2 in 1 can work but has a few issues of its own.

1. The files are proprietary and expensive.
2. File wear on especially the round file is concentrated on about 1/3 of the diameter because the file is never rotated.
3. The rails that set the depth gauges can bend if too much force is used resulting in a dangerously aggressive chain (depth gauges too low).

If this guy is one of t hose who could break an anvil then I would recommend the Stihl "orange roll" sharpening kit with separate files and guides. Although I have an early Pferd 2 in 1 I never use it anymore. I use the "orange roll" kit for regular sharpening or an Oregon "Dremel" style grinder for a really beat up chain.

 

[StoneyMeadowMaple]

The 2 in 1 can work but has a few issues of its own.

1. The files are proprietary and expensive.
2. File wear on especially the round file is concentrated on about 1/3 of the diameter because the file is never rotated.
3. The rails that set the depth gauges can bend if too much force is used resulting in a dangerously aggressive chain (depth gauges too low).

If this guy is one of t hose who could break an anvil then I would recommend the Stihl "orange roll" sharpening kit with separate files and guides. Although I have an early Pferd 2 in 1 I never use it anymore. I use the "orange roll" kit for regular sharpening or an Oregon "Dremel" style grinder for a really beat up chain.

No anvil breakers here, he’s an architect and model railroad builder, he’s pretty careful with his stuff, just doesn’t know how to sharpen, so he doesn’t. I will also inquire about that and have a look

 

[whodatschrome]

Fair enough. I was the same way for a long time with not knowing how to sharpen a chain, so i simply would take a handful of my chains down to my local saw shop to get sharpened all at once. I finally just made it a point to learn how to do it myself. I think it costs around $8~$10 per chain to get sharpened around where i’m located.

 

[JR Hill]

 

[Sidecarflip]

I had a Timberline and long ago had a now NLA Ganim. The Timberline is a copy of the Ganim. I say had because I 'gifted' it to my friend in Maine last Christmas. The one thing you never want to do with it is rotate the carbide burr backwards when using it simply because rotating the cutter backwards (counter clockwise) will immediately render the cutter dull as it will break off all the cutting edges. I much prefer grinding loops on my chain grinder. Have one for grinding cutters and another just for setting rakers. I run CBN wheels on both units as well.

 

[Breckinridge Elkins]

The Stihl 2 in 1 is just the Pferd tool rebranded to Stihl colors. You save about $20 buying the blue version. I have had good luck with this system. I find it works best for touching up chains that are in good condition, not so much for restoring heavily damaged chains.

No anvil breakers here, he’s an architect and model railroad builder, he’s pretty careful with his stuff, just doesn’t know how to sharpen, so he doesn’t. I will also inquire about that and have a look

Once your friend understands the process he will probably master it. Then again, sometimes even brilliant mechanical minds will find that topic they just can't or won't learn. If that's the case, look around at who does sharpening in your area. My local auto parts store used to do it for just a few bucks each. There was this young lady in there who did a fantastic job. So I would just rotate through chains. I would drop a few off and pick a few up whenever I went wood cutting.