woojr
ArboristSite Operative
As I was sharpening an old 3/8 Windsor chisel chain today I thought of a few things that might be of interest to novice sharpeners. While its important to know the theory of the cutter, I think there are some symptoms that new sawyers might overlook. If the chain is sharpened so that all the cutters are working evenly, the wood has a fairly smooth finish. If there are uneven lines, then there are some cutters that are longer than others. Or some dull and some still cutting. One thing I did years ago when I used a machine, was to measure the cutters with small outside calipers. The little time it takes can be well worth the production. Additionally, when they are all working together and sharp, they put much less stress on the bar. The inside of the groove and the top of the rails. If the bottom of the chain (drive links) is not a nice fit in the groove, it won't be long before the chain is just barely cutting enough kerf clearance for the bar to pass through.
I remember cutting firewood with some friends whose chains looked and felt sharp, yet were so loose (side to side play) in the groove that the saw would dance on top of the wood unless alot of force was exerted on the bar. Its sort of the same as putting the wrong thickness drivelink chain in a bar. Like a .050 change in a .063 groove.
So I think its good to look at what you've cut and keep the groove clean.
One other thought. As I was filing with a simple Oregon holder/guide, I put a set of marks with a Sharpie so I can see where the file is located in the guide. After it gets to where it needs to be moved, I easily can see where to turn it to get the fresh file lined up with the tooth.
Hope something here is helpful, work safe, woojr
I remember cutting firewood with some friends whose chains looked and felt sharp, yet were so loose (side to side play) in the groove that the saw would dance on top of the wood unless alot of force was exerted on the bar. Its sort of the same as putting the wrong thickness drivelink chain in a bar. Like a .050 change in a .063 groove.
So I think its good to look at what you've cut and keep the groove clean.
One other thought. As I was filing with a simple Oregon holder/guide, I put a set of marks with a Sharpie so I can see where the file is located in the guide. After it gets to where it needs to be moved, I easily can see where to turn it to get the fresh file lined up with the tooth.
Hope something here is helpful, work safe, woojr
