Speedline pic!

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Speed line looks good. But why not jus rope them down from another tree thats in the clear. My father was doing trees like that for thirty years in same and worse spots and weve never zipped anything and been completly sucsesfull. I just cant see setting up all that rigging before cutting. But thats my opinion.
 
Originally posted by rbtree

Why use a drift line here, John? A speedline with control would be way faster.
Second, perhaps they needed the piece to land quite a ways away. With a drift line, you'd have to have it set pretty high in the adjacent tree to accomplish that.
Correct me if I'm missing something.

We do not have the room to work that you usually often do, relatively short trees in small back yards. a lot of meat and spread.

What I find with drift lines is that I can get the peices to move right into the LZ and clear all obsitcals. You need the second anchor point to be relativly high compared to a speedline.

the inerent sag of a sppedline also gives problems when your working with 40 ft anchors.
 
Spydey,

In your first illustration you have the SL tensioned with a MA system using the tail of the rope. Same for the drift line.

My preferance is to always anchor lines to a friction device like the FOS from Vertical Pro. Then I add a piggy back MA to tension the system. That way, when it comes time to slack off the tension I have a 1:1 system to loosen not a 2:1 or 3:1 which slackens much slower.

Another reason to piggy back is to keep the base system strong. I never have to worry about a friction hitch slipping where the MA pulley is installed. All slack in the system is captured by the wraps on the anchor device.

Tom
 
Originally posted by Trees Company
weve never zipped anything and been completly sucsesfull. I just cant see setting up all that rigging before cutting. But thats my opinion.

I think it is the ASPR that says the only thing more important than knowing how to properly use a SL is knowing when not to use a SL.

.02
 
Goop point (of course) Tom; and TreeTx, iguess it could be fair to say that using this a lot during a good learning curve is great, to be able to put in your back pocket; to quick draw out anytime you really need it.

i once again note, that whenever possible a Z-rig etc. pull multiplier is not my main tightening system; but a preset to tensioneing the line for real leverageing by bending it; even if just to sweat some more tension purchase out of the line, or too lock off the line system bent at leveraged angle. That is the superior leverage purchase from the single line over a short distance. A pre-tightened line gives this short distance and avails higher loading fed into the leveraging for the real power. Sometimes .5 - 2 seconds more to make a support or tightening screech with power in the line to task!

On the Speedline Assist part of the system (Blue Line); i come to the far side of the load to hitch, to give as great and far a torqued turn on the hinge (to force to higher strength at folding). i think the time betwixt a hinge holding solid, and the time that it is folding is a lil "magi-call'; in that catching the load at that precise point and increasing pull or push on it, to impose hinging movement, forces the hinge stronger. So if i can bend the Blue Line sharply for a sudden high leverage load on the line, it will be just at that point of the hinge flexing over, to at that moment, force as much support giving strength to tyhe hinge, for the rest of it's ride on that hinge. A properly made WideFace taking best advantage of that, allowing the most ride on hinge. Efforts other than during that point of bending (which may be extended like muscling a strong/light/flexible pine WideFace hinge all the way to the ground); either befoere or after, are kinda feudal mostly, but a well aimed , impacting all at once effort,; to induce flexing/hinging at that moment, is best use IMLHO.

i think that pulling at the end of the load gives highest leverage force available, tying just to front of that load from a pull roughly even in height, pulls acorss the hinge withthat leverage. But, tying over the top, takes the highest leverage position of pull and also comits to more arching on the hinge, thereby more leveraged. The straighter pull, would try to move forward to target farther, while the arching one goes to target, less directly, longer route of the arc, so therefore the same amount of leverage from height applied to induce different arc/leverage values by the choosing of the direction of that force as it is applied to target as a seperate valuation. Getting more arc or less straight to target direction; giving same leveraged power funneled into less movement.

Orrrrrrrrr something like that.........
Better get back to the local branch lab!
:alien:
 
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