Split Tail Question

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For me and some others it will help to save a few seconds off your time when you go to compete and it works really well. I got the idea from Roachy I'm sure there may be a simpler better way to achieve what we are after but for not its the next best thing to McDonalds.
 
Im not sure everybody fully understands what we are after.This system is set up so that the biner the eye is in (captive eye)rides on your bridge the second biner is set in the captive eye to rotate the hitch to face the host rope this makes footlocking the tail and body thrusting ,or limbwalking,much easier to advance the hitch.I never liked using a dog leash and pulley I thought that was sloppy and the biner with the hitch when placed on the bridge turned to the side and made things akward.Also with this setup I only have to unclip one biner to move the whole system around a limb or whatever I found two biners to be sloppy and to much play on the bridge.I can however see a two biner setup on different saddle types like the Master 2.Understand I know it is not perfect and not for everyone I came up with it for my style until a better alternative for me arrives.All I can say is dont be closed minded give it a shot !:D
 
I met Roachy at the TCI chapionships this past summer. I also bought a new Butterfly II saddle also. I am always looking for new things to try. This double 'biner setup that Roachy & BigJohn use is a good idea. The only thing that I have found awkward is the fact that you have to undo both 'biners as you are working towards that perfect TIP. Also I like a snap better than a 'biner on the non-hitch side of my climbing line.
 
I think you are missing something here Rich I only pull my eye off my captive biner when advanceing my line. The captive eye biner with tri act never come off my bridge unless I was doof and have my lanyard in an award position and want a straight clean shot with climbing line.

For haveing to throw your line to advance I like to keep an 8oz throw ball wich is really compact with a keychain biner. This is what works for me. Just offering some suggestions.
 
Originally posted by BigJohn
I think you are missing something here Rich I only pull my eye off my captive biner when advanceing my line. The captive eye biner with tri act never come off my bridge unless I was doof and have my lanyard in an award position and want a straight clean shot with climbing line.

For haveing to throw your line to advance I like to keep an 8oz throw ball wich is really compact with a keychain biner. This is what works for me. Just offering some suggestions.


The way that you have this setup don't you have to take off the 'biner from the bridge and also remove the hitch 'biner from the bridge 'biner to advance your line? Or am I missing something???
 
Yup your missing something here. Yeah I don't unclip my captive eye I just slide eye down and open the gate and out it comes. Some captive eyes work better hang in there for a minute and I am gonna take picture for ya. Be right back
 
Let me how it works for ya and hope this clears it for everyone else as well.
 
Makes me feel like my arangatang like arms have a purpose besides pissing me off when I can't ever by shirt with more than 3/4 length sleeves. I don't have a problem with the bridge length I have given it some thought of shortening it but with all the crap you go through at competitions about mods being accepted and not accepted and then accepted I figure I better let it alone till it is set in stone.
 
Yup. The new line is so great to throw. You can really get some height and in an open tree its pretty accurate and quick.
 
Not a split-tail system, but here's the setup I run 90 percent of the time.

(Thanks to Okietreedude and NickfromWI)
 
If I were you, I'd make the tails coming out of those fishermans knots about 3 inches longer.

Or get a spliced climbing line! ;)

love
nick
 

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