Splitter acting/working weak?

[60DRB]

...finally got the proper gauge and hardware. After going through Christmas, the flu, and an infected cat bite, finally installed the parts (gauge between the pump and control valve, per pictures). Also replaced the fluid filter. Then ran the splitter. Acts exactly the same. The pressure gauge indicates 1100-1200 PSI at full extension and at completion of retraction.

What next?

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Quote isn't working.

The below is not correct at all, it's rated well over the pressures in a splitter. In fact it's rated higher than just about any hydraulic system rubber hose. We had a 3500psi air system (for charging air tanks) put in at a job I worked and black pipe was used. This was a job done for the .gov and inspected by near every acronym agency in teh book... OSHA, etc.

"Now that i mentioned water lines i have to tell you DO NOT use any common steel water pipe fittings in a hydraulic application. they are not rated for the pressure and could burst causing an amputation or put an eye out. use only proper hydraulic fittings with the right thread and sealing design."

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

Well now it works.

Check the relief setting, it might have loosened. You should be in the area of 2000-2400psi with the cylinder dead headed, depending on model of splitter and design.

...finally got the proper gauge and hardware. After going through Christmas, the flu, and an infected cat bite, finally installed the parts (gauge between the pump and control valve, per pictures). Also replaced the fluid filter. Then ran the splitter. Acts exactly the same. The pressure gauge indicates 1100-1200 PSI at full extension and at completion of retraction.

What next?

 

[60DRB]

As I previously stated, I'm fairly ignorant in this arena, but learn quickly...

So, what is "relief setting", and how do I make adjustments?

 

[fixit1960]

I'll try and assist. If you go back to post #11 and look at the picture to the left of the spool valve where the handle attaches there is a nut/cap. Remove this cap and it will uncover the pressure relief valve adjustment nut. There will be a lock nut(thin) that you will take loose (back off 1/2 turn)and the screw will need to be turned clockwise to raise the pressure setting. Note, make small adjustments and you will need it running at full RPMs and will need to dead head the ram piston, either full retract or full extend. You should try and determine maximum allowable system pressure and not exceed it but you should be safe at 2000 to 2250. if your spool/control valve is a lot different than the one in post #11 you will need to take and picture and post back.

Hope this helps.

 

[60DRB]

Give me a few days... lots of stuff on the plate this week,

Thanks

 

[fixit1960]

Give me a few days... lots of stuff on the plate this week,

Thanks

Your mission should you choose to accept it.....Okay, to clarify a little, have the engine running at full throttle, engine and hydraulic oil should be warm, check your initial pressure again by dead heading the ram (either full retracted or full extend) if too low loosen locknut (described in initial post), turn adjusting screw in maybe 1/4 turn, and dead head circuit again. Test the new setting a couple of times after each adjustment. When you have achieved the desired pressure setting, lock the lock nut and secure the cover cap. If you have to move it more than a turn or 2 I would make sure that the packing in the cylinder was good before going much further. I can explain that if necessary but try the adjustment first. Good luck and wear your PPE.

 

[60DRB]

OK. The control valve is not adjustable... due to task overload I took the splitter to the hydraulic repair shop the local JD dealer uses for all their hydraulic repair work. The owner/head mechanic checked the piston and says it's tight-no bypass/leaks. He says the pump is "two stage", with the 2nd stage stepping up the pressure as the splitter head encounters resistance (as I understood him). Sound right? Anyway, he said it's an easy replacement and as he can't get the replacement pump any cheaper than I can, I may as well replace it myself. That's the first time anybody at any shop ever told me I should/could do the work myself to save money! Thoughts otherwise?

 

[sundance]

As I recall it's an 11 GPM pump. Probably under $100 and has a lot of years on it. Certainly worth a try.

 

[066blaster]

I still think it's a carb issue. I would clean the carb real good. I have a speeco 22 ton and I had to clean the carb the first year I had it. It would start and run fine till I put a load on it, and progressively got worse till it wouldn't split at all. I would try that before I spent money on other things. Good luck

 

[fixit1960]

OK. The control valve is not adjustable... due to task overload I took the splitter to the hydraulic repair shop the local JD dealer uses for all their hydraulic repair work. The owner/head mechanic checked the piston and says it's tight-no bypass/leaks. He says the pump is "two stage", with the 2nd stage stepping up the pressure as the splitter head encounters resistance (as I understood him). Sound right? Anyway, he said it's an easy replacement and as he can't get the replacement pump any cheaper than I can, I may as well replace it myself. That's the first time anybody at any shop ever told me I should/could do the work myself to save money! Thoughts otherwise?

I believe it may be possible that the pump element may be worn out but I don't believe there is no relief setting adjustment. Unless it is a specially built pump element with the relief valve built in. But in order for the manufacturer to design it that way it has to be turn key system. In other words, the manufacturer of the pump also new exactly which power unit was used, how much flow and volume was used and how much pressure on the piston was required and how large the piston was. Otherwise they would have to leave a provision in the system to fine tune the relief setting after the unit was assembled. Which is the adjustable relief valve, in the control valve, that bypasses oil to the tank when relief pressure is hit when the valve is held in the extend or retract position. When in the neutral position the oil flows to the main control valve and back to the hydraulic tank. When operating the lever you have to have a means to prevent deadheading the pump and locking it up or blowing stuff up. This is the main relief valve.

 

[triptester]

The only adjustment on a 2-stage pump is for the bypass adjustment for the high flow/low pressure section. The low flow/high pressure section moves fluid to the system continually. The relief adjustment is in the control valve on a log splitter.

 

[fixit1960]

I believe it may be possible that the pump element may be worn out but I don't believe there is no relief setting adjustment. Unless it is a specially built pump element with the relief valve built in. But in order for the manufacturer to design it that way it has to be turn key system. In other words, the manufacturer of the pump also new exactly which power unit was used, how much flow and volume was used and how much pressure on the piston was required and how large the piston was. Otherwise they would have to leave a provision in the system to fine tune the relief setting after the unit was assembled. Which is the adjustable relief valve, in the control valve, that bypasses oil to the tank when relief pressure is hit when the valve is held in the extend or retract position. When in the neutral position the oil flows to the main control valve and back to the hydraulic tank. When operating the lever you have to have a means to prevent deadheading the pump and locking it up or blowing stuff up. This is the main relief valve.

I guess I should have written this more clearly. The main relief valve is located in the main control valve. The control handle is located on the main control valve. The adjustment I suggested you check in post #25 and 27. The pump will not have any consumer adjustable settings. Unless the mechanic checked pump flow under pressure to ensure the pump is switching from low pressure/ high volume to high pressure/ low volume and the thereby confirming the pump had the capability to produce sufficient volume and pressure to meet requirements, he is making an educated guess as to the pump being worn out. It may very well be worn out, but you may spend the money and find out the relief valve spring in the main control valve relief is bad or broken. If you change the pump and have the same problem then you will know.

My intent was to have you adjust in the relief valve a couple of turns and see if the pressure improved. If it did your problem was in the relief valve of the main control and not the pump. If you got no increase in pressure then it is a bad pump. (providing the piston packing was okay, which you confirmed is okay)

As someone else said the new pumps are available on E bay for about 105.00, free shipping. If you were to check it this way and turning the relief in did not increase pressure to the cylinder, after changing the pump, remember to turn the relief valve setting back down and check it, set it to specs as mentioned in my post # 27. Good luck.

 

[60DRB]

OK. Finally was able get to the splitter- I got the new pump for about $100 online, and had to gather a few other items (fittings and a piece of hose, since the new pump was not exactly the same as what came off). Yesterday I finally got a break in my work/family/training schedule and replaced the pump. Works like new, with 3000 psi at the second stage. Thanks for the advice and pointers everyone!

 

[AKKAMAAN]

What next?

Check piston seal