Had a local shop, about an hour away, custom make mine, because I couldn't find one. The rod is bigger than 3.5" though. It was pretty freaking heavy too!!
Splitter Build
- Thread starter breymeyerfam
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ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
Nope, says 6ftx32in.
"4 -8 pieces of 6'X 32" long ash in it,"
6"x32" would make sense though for some reason I didn't think of that last night. Was picturing a really big boiler.
I stand corrected, until he corrects it, lol!
We need a judgement call, Cantoo! 6’ or 6”?
We need a judgement call, Cantoo! 6’ or 6”?
breymeyerfam
Addicted to ArboristSite
Made a hell of a mess on the mill tonight...
breymeyerfam
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did some math tonight. Unfortunately going to a 5"cylinder that has anything over a 2" rod will not do me any good. My valves only flow up to 25gpm. A 5" cylinder with a 3.5" rod paired with a 22gpm pump would nearly double the gpm out of the cylinder on the retract. So with adding a dump valve, no help. Extra cost of the 3.5 rod cylinder AND a dump valve and the extra plumbing I don't think will be worth it... I'm not selling firewood and don't need a 6 second cycle. I'm very content with a 10-11 second cycle. However cool a super fast cycle would be, I'm back to a standard 5"x24"cylinder.
ChoppyChoppy
Tree Freak
The valves are often spec'd at pump flow, not cylinder flow, although yes, a large rod is moving a ton of oil on retract. I'm too lazy to figure the numbers, I know my setup with a 30gpm pump is about 70gpm on retract.
I have a "25gpm" valve, it does just fine. I do have a pilot operated check valve (aka dump valve) though.
Looks like the blue splitter has one under the valve, looks like it may be the same Sun Hydraulics one I have.
I have a "25gpm" valve, it does just fine. I do have a pilot operated check valve (aka dump valve) though.
Looks like the blue splitter has one under the valve, looks like it may be the same Sun Hydraulics one I have.
I, Like ValleyFirewood am running a 5" x 30" cylinder with a 2 1/2" rod. Running an auto cycle valve and a 28 GPM pump. I have had no issues and James at Splitez who sold me the parts said I'd be Okay. He was right as he has built a LOT of splitters. I am running a bypass but have no cooler. I have a 30 gallon reserve tank too. As long as you do a tidy hose routing with the least amount of els you will be fine.
long sweep els and hose loops are your friends!
https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/grd/d/lawn-mower-jd-log-splitter/6413639548.html
on craigslist here in minnn.
log splitter parts.
on craigslist here in minnn.
log splitter parts.
5" cylinder with 3.5 rod, on 22 gpm pump, you'll have about 43 gpm on the return stroke coming from the cylinder, with a cycle time of 8.4 second (5.5 out, 2.84 return). With a 2" rod, it will be 22gpm, and cylce time of 10.2 (5.5 out, 4.6 return).
You can add a dump valve, and that will be more than plenty for the return stroke. Just get a high enough gpm dump valve. Even if you got the 30 gpm rated dump valve from Splitez, you could effectively handle up to 55gpm on the return, as your control valve will still handle 25gpm (it will handle more than that, but to use nice round numbers). I run a 25 gpm valve on my 4 way and log lift, but I have a 28gpm pump. I wanted it that way to make heat. I have about 35 gallons of oil and I want it to heat up, but I'm also running a cooler that keeps it from getting too warm (set at 140 degrees).
All depends on your operation. How I have mine, it's setup for a 2 man crew, where one guy is running the splitter, and the other if feeding it. If it were a solo operation, then the return stroke would be less of a deal, as you'll eventually run out of wood, but it'll be returned by the time you get wood ready. Since I'm a 2 man, the guy running has to wait for the ram to get out of the way to grab another piece off the lift, so return time is important to me. It comes at a cost though. Anything fast with hydraulics is going to cost you, if you do it safely and use the correct parts. I'd add the 65 gpm valve, in case you upped your pump later on to a 28, then it's ready to go.
Can see a little better of my dump valve. It dumps right to the tank, after the filter and bypasses the cooler.
If you used two smaller cylinders and a sequence valve (like the Prince RD1000) you don't have to use a dump valve and flow everything to return, you can just hook the head end up to a tank. And the cylinders would work together under load to equal one larger one.
This is what I came up with for my 2 cylinder splitter (trying to overcome slow cycle times and a single stage pump). Theoretically, if you had a very small cycling cylinder for #2 (like 2") and a 4" for #1, your cycle times to load would be awesome and you'd have plenty of piston area for lots of force once the system encountered a load. 2" cylinders aren't too expensive. Some weld on 1/2" or 3/4" bungs will overcome the fact that most of them have 3/8'ths ports on them. With a 2 stage pump, you have a 3 stage splitter.
Maybe someone will try it before me and tell me if it will work lol.
This is what I came up with for my 2 cylinder splitter (trying to overcome slow cycle times and a single stage pump). Theoretically, if you had a very small cycling cylinder for #2 (like 2") and a 4" for #1, your cycle times to load would be awesome and you'd have plenty of piston area for lots of force once the system encountered a load. 2" cylinders aren't too expensive. Some weld on 1/2" or 3/4" bungs will overcome the fact that most of them have 3/8'ths ports on them. With a 2 stage pump, you have a 3 stage splitter.
Maybe someone will try it before me and tell me if it will work lol.
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Yarz
ArboristSite Operative
It's a good thing to be able to separate needs and wants. It keeps you from going too far down the rabbit hole.
breymeyerfam
Addicted to ArboristSite
Haven't got much accomplished this week, but I did get the 4 way wedge finished. Saved a little time, I scavaged the side wedges off an old failed attempt at a 6 way. The wedge all the way up is about 9-10 inches above the beam.
Looking good! I wish I had a mill when I built my blade, ruined a new Kawasaki grinder
cumminstinkerer
addicted to making my boiler run clean
Valley, the viscosity is the only thing I could see, I have had extensive conversations with an chemical engineer and all those fluids can be interchanged, EP gear oil is one you have to be careful with, it can have adverse effects on brass. Some system, only hdrostats that I have seen, require standard engine oil, has to do with the shear strength of the UTF, I cannot believe that you could ever, ever generate those pressures in a splitter. We are talking over 4500 before any issues arise and then only under certain circumstances. Gear pumps and even piston pumps not subject to over 4000 psi or the off chance of extreme cavitation are perfectly fine with a UTF type fluid. Water suspension can also be considered an issue, engine oil is actually meant to not bind with water while UTF type fluids are meant to keep the water in suspension. Now I am not saying go out and dump anything you have with engine oil or EP gear oil and change it but there are definitely options. The old 48A D7E cat i ran called for engine oil in everything but the finals, after extensive research and visits wit the Petroleum engineer and Cat we tried UTF in all of it but the engine, everything held up excellently and cold weather performance improved. I am by no means an engineer just a mechanic that likes to learn and try things.
Jason
cumminstinkerer
addicted to making my boiler run clean
To further that statement, i sorta forgot that to throw out there are different viscosities of UTF now if the oil meets MS1209 specs then it should 15 weight I believe, don't have my paper work in front of me. MS 1209 is the spec for Hy-Tran, Hy-Guard and sorry but I cant think of Cat's name for it right now. If you ever have serious oil questions and need truthful answers call a company called Petricon and get in tough with Joe G. His last name is very hard to spell but here is a rough phonetic version Geovaughnatso, The spelling is no where near right. That guy is a wiz with oil and antifreeze.
cumminstinkerer
addicted to making my boiler run clean
Guys, just got to thinking about how I worded that whole mess of stuff... I see you all liked so I assume it came off ok but I sure didn't mean to sound like a smart butt if I did. I sure wasn't kidding about Joe though, he is amazing and really friendly. Oil is funny stuff and some insight can sure help. When I worked for Case CE we had issues with new road graders not shifting right when it got cold, final solution was we had to run a special version of hytran, build a machine in Georgia off Italian/Brazilian design then wonder why stuff don't work here in Iowa when it gets cold. When we switched that old D7E over to the UTF I could steer and had hydraulic function way faster when it was cold. I know for sure in the 1800 and XT series Case skidsteers were they say to use 10W-30 you better, the Gerotor motors used in the hydros will destroy the rollers if you don't, Has something to do with Zinc. Most other applications you can switch around oils. Just watch out if the system has a gerotor motor. i have like five pages of service bulletins on why that is. When designing any system or changing oils keep in mind what you are planning to do with the system, what you have for components, and how you will handle moisture and heat. If in doubt your safest will really always be to fall back to an appropriate weight engine oil.
Since we are on that the API service classification is important in some scenarios too. You can run a C class oil in all engines but not an S class in a Diesel. C-whatever stand for compression ignition, also carries a much higher detergent and additive package, S whatever is Spark ignition. One can run a C class in spark ignited engines, just be careful if you switch from an S to C class, a very short initial couple of oil filter changes is needed. The C class will clean carbon and other debris out of an engine. NOTE THIS IS STRICTLY FOUR STROKE AND TWO STROKE WITH AN OIL SUMP, does not apply to fuel/oil mix two stroke.
Since we are on that the API service classification is important in some scenarios too. You can run a C class oil in all engines but not an S class in a Diesel. C-whatever stand for compression ignition, also carries a much higher detergent and additive package, S whatever is Spark ignition. One can run a C class in spark ignited engines, just be careful if you switch from an S to C class, a very short initial couple of oil filter changes is needed. The C class will clean carbon and other debris out of an engine. NOTE THIS IS STRICTLY FOUR STROKE AND TWO STROKE WITH AN OIL SUMP, does not apply to fuel/oil mix two stroke.
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
I really like that somebody is taking the time to point out these things. I've gotten into many arguments over oils and their uses with people and have come to the conclusion that I'll do what I know to be safe that works and let others do what they want.
breymeyerfam
Addicted to ArboristSite
Did someone say something about oils? Mine is the best! I run a stihl ultra, amsoil, royal purple, klotz, yamalube, mobile 1, rotella t6 mix in everything! IT'S THE BESTEST!
Just kidding.
Just kidding.
Jakers
Owner - Arbor Jake's Tree Service, LLC
and always mix 42.1682:1Did someone say something about oils? Mine is the best! I run a stihl ultra, amsoil, royal purple, klotz, yamalube, mobile 1, rotella t6 mix in everything! IT'S THE BESTEST!
Just kidding.
breymeyerfam
Addicted to ArboristSite
Cut all the plates to to weld up the pusher. Also drilled all the holes to mount the pusher slides, but forgot to snap a pic while on the drill press.
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