For the whole length of the bar those triangle shaped drive links are driving the oil down, centrifugal force does not come into play until it reached the end, by then the tip has it's oil.
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Deleted member 83629
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I'm sorry i stirred the forum with my thread 
merc_man
Addicted to ArboristSite
I got a couple older ones that have greese holes
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I grease my bars every sharpening and the clutch bearing every 6th sharpening. It says to grease them in the owners manual so i follow what the manual says.
I learned about drive sprocket bearings 'the hard way', so I clean and grease these every time the clutch drum is removed.
On most STIHL saws (inboard clutch), removing the clutch drum is so easy that I do this on any 'heavy' cleaning. I put a small dab of white lithium grease on it, and work it in with a toothpick, or some thing similar. STIHL sells a little toothpaste like tube of bearing grease which is very convenient to carry.
On most Husqvarna saws (outboard clutch), removal is a bit more involved. My 353 has a hole in the crankshaft that makes greasing this bearing easy. The grease exits through a hole in the side of the shaft at the bearing location, Not all outboard clutch saws have this feature. I use one of those little grease guns mentioned earlier.
Philbert
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my 545 has that feature i will dig through the owners manual and find out if my 365 is the same way even though it has a inboard clutch.
I'm sorry i stirred the forum with my thread
stir away. most here wont wear out a tip in their lifetime, myself included. ya, I grease em...
mostly hardnoses here.
Big_Wood
westcoast dweller
Not all huskies have the outboard clutch. Just most of them. Most of them including the inboards have that grease through the crank feature as well. Funny thing is, when it comes to that bearing I honestly can't think of one guy I know including those I have worked with who have ever greased that bearing. In fact, just the other day I was working with my buddy Verne. Another guy had a 460. This question came up and both him and Verne said they had never greased the clutch drum bearing in their careers. Pretty crazy. I grease that bearing when the drum comes off. I use the same lithium grease they call for in the pilot bearing of a vehicle trainy input shaft on a manual clutch where the shaft supports in the crank end. It's red and last a good while. I lube them at the beginning of the week and by the end of the week I still have some residual grease left in there. Amazing as it never lasts with any other grease.
I have Oregon bars with a grease hole for the tip sprocket and I grease them lightly when I add fuel. I figure it cant hurt.
I remove the clutch drum and grease the bearing after a days cutting when I clean the saw out.
The one Stihl bar I have is without a grease hole, and always feels gritty and dirty when I spin the sprocket compared to my greased Oregon bars.
I remove the clutch drum and grease the bearing after a days cutting when I clean the saw out.
The one Stihl bar I have is without a grease hole, and always feels gritty and dirty when I spin the sprocket compared to my greased Oregon bars.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Do you think that the collected wood gunge in the bar groove soaking up & blocking to a degree the chain oil would have an effect on the lube of/to the tip sprocket ? with some newish saws the oiling is minimal at best + some oilers are non adjustable, requiring the fitting of a HD oil pump to cope with the longer length bars
I figure the fine timber that builds up under the chain in the bar slot pushes the oil up into the chain and reduces the amount that makes it into the sprocket, but some still makes it.
Greasing takes 3 seconds and ensures its lubricated.
Also, Saws will generally have an oil pump rated to lubricate the max length bar listed by the manufacturer.
If your not lubing the bar, the saw is too small for it.
I had this issue with a 30" bar fitted to a Stihl 039 which is rated for bars between 16 and 20"
My 066 needs to have the oiler turned back 25% with the 30" bar, and its always wet with oil.
Greasing takes 3 seconds and ensures its lubricated.
Also, Saws will generally have an oil pump rated to lubricate the max length bar listed by the manufacturer.
If your not lubing the bar, the saw is too small for it.
I had this issue with a 30" bar fitted to a Stihl 039 which is rated for bars between 16 and 20"
My 066 needs to have the oiler turned back 25% with the 30" bar, and its always wet with oil.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
Makes for very interesting reading, 3 points spring to mind. I would presume the end product of your labour's is carried out in an almost hospital like environment ( Dry, Clean etc.) as my aero mod days were. Do you use a slurry/ soluble oil in your turning /lathe / milling procedures ? & I'm wondering on the outcome if subjected to all the crap that a saw is subjected to, I"m talking a commercial money making wood processing set up, not a firewood guy cutting his cords for his home heating, as an aside part of my saw servicing wages are wood supplied in metre lengths for my home heating ( I have to cut/split to fit my stoves )+any parts I require for my personal saws, so I know the huge difference between working conditions of 1 of mine & a work saw, I doubt if we will ever convince each other to our way of thinking but all knowledge is at some time useful, so even at 80 years old next time around I'm always willing to absorb if possible other peoples take on things. Thank you for your reply.
Little Al
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you read my earlier post ,I'm a converted luber, always have been, the newer saws skimp on oil, environment issues, bit the same as the 999/1 fuel mix saga, in my doatage i've come to the conclusion that not all of this new thinking is as good as it's cracked up to be.
grease away to your hearts content if it makes you feel better, seeing a bar drip oil for weeks after its been hung up by the end on a nail lets me sleep easy at night knowing the sprocket bearings are getting their fair share day & night.
fangst
fangst
then tell me..why the groove in the links,,that by physics,,would LIFT the oil UP, to bring the oil into the drive links???
only stihl chain has that link feature, also the bar has a slight radius at the oil entry point to get the oil being driven outwards to the pins before going around the tip where it is a good amount flung off.
tankski
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
Adirondackstihl
Flyz, Fuel & Fotos
Oh64's are OK....
I know someone with a bar just like that!!
Idahonative
Addicted to ArboristSite
I'm sorry i stirred the forum with my thread
I think your thread has been enlightening and I'm glad you started it. I thought everyone greased the nose sprocket but this thread has shown that not to be true. It's the way my dad taught me and I know it works but I also believe not greasing works for others as well. If it didn't, there would be posts all over this place talking about nose sprocket failures.
I'm going to continue doing what I've done my whole life and grease the nose because it's cheap and quick and I know it works. But I see nothing wrong with someone who doesn't want to grease if it's worked for them in the past.
atv1965
Chainsaw Novice
What he said!!
