Ahhhhh........sealed bearing. LolMore that they want you to spend more £$'s on quicker worn out replacementsHow can metal bearing on metal with no lubrication be good, it goes against all engineering best practices.
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Nice post. Also tool and die.
SR-71 is 60 years old. Very expensive lots has been learned since then.
It isn't just dissimilar metals either. Different metals react differently
Some metals expand when put in liquid Nitrogen. And don't shrink back when heated back up.
There were metals 30 years ago, high chromium/Florine (?) that would self Lin for a while at 900+
It was used in helicopters where they had to fly after losing lube pressure.
Anyway. You are spot on.
l never greased nose sprockets untill I started using canola oil as bar oil. It works great (canola was originally made for metal applications I think) but it gums up the nose sprocket bearings siezing the sprocket on bars stored for 3+weeks. No other gumming issues other than bars sitting out of service. So now l even drill my stihl bar noses and inject lithium bearing grease every so often. Those little cheap cast metal refillable mini grease guns sold at baileys and alike do the job perfectly and are small enough to pack with your saw kit. It allows you to buy whatever grease quality you want in bulk and refill. Works good.
Thornton
40:1 wide open like a chicken on a chain
You got to have one just because they are bad as German engineered.
D
Deleted member 83629
Guest
same one as me i refilled mine with a grease gun.
lasmacgod
ArboristSite Operative
I'm wondering if there is a difference in use for those who have an actual need (not a compulsory need, want, desire, etc.) to grease the nose sprocket and those who do not grease. Canola oil vs regular bar lube, dirty vs clean environments, long vs short bars, file in the field vs swapping chains, etc.
Just to clarify, I don't believe there is a right vs wrong here. A person just has to tailor the equipment's use for the primary task at hand, and develop a maintenance plan to maximize the service life of that equipment.
As I stated before, I do not grease. The longest bar I run is 20", and I swap chains rather than file during the day. I clean the bar groove every time I swap chains. I mainly cut dead, dirt-blown wood, what some may consider clean up.
Just to clarify, I don't believe there is a right vs wrong here. A person just has to tailor the equipment's use for the primary task at hand, and develop a maintenance plan to maximize the service life of that equipment.
As I stated before, I do not grease. The longest bar I run is 20", and I swap chains rather than file during the day. I clean the bar groove every time I swap chains. I mainly cut dead, dirt-blown wood, what some may consider clean up.
D
Deleted member 83629
Guest
i file in field grease my bar and i run bars from 14'' to 24'' i use regular bar oil. and i also carry tools to clean and dress the bar.
OldJack
ArboristSite Operative
This thread reminded me to grease my bar today. 
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
I wouldn't use a grease on the nose sprocket.
When my saw and bar gets real dirty with sticky wood chips, sap, and such. Usually from Osage Orange and Red Cedar. After cleaning the bar, I spray the nose with chain lube, take my air hose, and shoot a burst of air on the teeth to see if they will turn. When the sprocket whizzes and sounds like a siren, I know it's free of crud. After installing the bar I just let the bar/chain oil do the lubricating.
When my saw and bar gets real dirty with sticky wood chips, sap, and such. Usually from Osage Orange and Red Cedar. After cleaning the bar, I spray the nose with chain lube, take my air hose, and shoot a burst of air on the teeth to see if they will turn. When the sprocket whizzes and sounds like a siren, I know it's free of crud. After installing the bar I just let the bar/chain oil do the lubricating.
7sleeper
Addicted to ArboristSite
This is EXTREMELY strange! In my experience and your wife will surely agree, it is no problem whatsoever to store canola bar oil with out ANY gumming at all for over a year! What I have learned is that canola oil does tend to gum when in contact with mineral oil! And it becomes even worse when mixing bio = canola bar oil with mineral bar oil! So for me this is the reason you have experienced a problem before. There were surely residues of mineral oil (= grease, old dino chain oil, etc.) in your bar tip and then it came to the feared reaction. If you leave out the grease you can just flush your system with canola and you should never have any problems again!
7
This thread reminded me to grease my bar today.
LOL, I did mine yesterday.
Sagetown
Farmer and a STIHL
............ and don't forget the rope handle.This thread reminded me to grease my bar today.
Good point !!
Canola in a bottle or in a half full oil reservoir on your saw will not present any problems that l know of. Take the canola out of a sealed environment and it dries out and gumms up. You see this when cleaning a deep fryer that uses canola where it has been splashed. lt goes sticky and like semi dry glue. But your correct in the fact that in a sealed environment it will last forever without gumming. l don't have issues with bars used daily/weekly but only when let sit for a period of time. l have had many many nose sprocket seize from canola but have changed practice l have no issues. Even when the bearings stiffen up/seize a few whack on a block of wood and it frees up followed by a run on a saw and its good. I promise you if you use canola and take bars off to store you will have problems if you don't at least clean the residual canola out of nose sprocket.
I'll bet that is what the guy was using in the 460 I just worked on, never saw such hard gobbs of oil & sawdust stuck everywhere on the saw.
D
Deleted member 83629
Guest
Any home improvement place carry's them my dealer doesn't stock them.Now l seen that blue German little grease push gun....l want one!! Depending on how big small the greasing hole is, the cast little guns have a pointy little tip and are either very effective or if the hole is too big it won't inject into bearing as well. the German design takes care of that and would force the grease in no matter the hole size.
jimhry
New Member
Damn good answer brother! I was a machinest for over 40 years, recently retired this year. When I was grinding industrial diesel camshafts, the cam lobe was generally 60 to 62 rc hardness. The rollers were always a few points softer then the cam lobe. Thanks for making me remember. My mind misses the work I used too do. My back, wrists, and arms, not so much
Damn good answer brother! I was a machinest for over 40 years, recently retired this year. When I was grinding industrial diesel camshafts, the cam lobe was generally 60 to 62 rc hardness. The rollers were always a few points softer then the cam lobe. Thanks for making me remember. My mind misses the work I used too do. My back, wrists, and arms, not so much
Lol……exactly
Along with going a point or two softer so a tool wears out instead of breaking.
An expendable wears out …..fine. Buy a new one.
A few points harder and lasts twice as long and breaks……they want a new one.
The wrong grease is better than no grease. Just saying.
