square grind with 551A?

[rmihalek]

square grind with 511A?

Can the Oregon 511A chain grinder be set up for square-ground (aka full chisel) chain? I have round-ground 73LG and would like to convert it to square ground if possible. I'd try it by hand but I'm no good at free-hand filing.

 

[Saw Man]

Yes, and no.

You get a cross between square, Atop, and round ground.

Wheel edges don't last, unless using a resinoid compound, which wll blue burn the cutter quicker.

Do you tilt the chain bed???
If not, your losing performance.

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Saw Man, yes it works and I have proved it. Set the grinder head at 30 degrees from vertical and the top plate angle at 30 degrees. But first, the grinding wheel must be modified at what I think is 5-10 degrees on the side of the stone that does the grinding. This mod is done freehand with the best and hardest carborundum stone available- get one from your local tool and die maker. It is ok that the botton of the wheel is 1/8", but dress that at 0 degrees.
If the grinding head is tilted more than 25- 30 degrees than the sideplate is way to steep, causing an exaggerated hook, so a bit of experimentation is in order. Anyway, it is definately faster than round ground chisel and can be touched up easy in the woods with a goofy file.
What I do now is I use this method to modify RS and LG before I put it on the silvey square grinder.
Anyway here is a movie of an 066 using a chain off the modified Oregon round grinder.
John

 

[Gypo Logger]

Upon further examination, it will be noted that the tilt of the grinder, minus the angle of the dressed wheel will be the sideplate angle, however, the corner will always be in the corner.
The only thing you will be giving up is an adequate under the top plate angle because of the 25- 30 degree angle of the wheel, but it's still good enough for the girls we are running with and further sets the groundwork for making a true square cutter.
John

 

[Saw Man]

Glad to see some one else likes to play.

On he 'no' side, I was being too technical as the corner won't be exactly like a true square grind due to wheel radius changing, but you're right about performance.
Liked the video.

??? When your grinding using the 511, do you keep the chain level, or tilt it?

I think for the average sharpener that a round ground, tilted cutter performance, overall durability is easier for them to maintain, and gives close performance.

As I see 'sharpened' chains especially at dealers, it never ceases to amaze me of the poor (using the word deliberately) job done.

??? What wheel are you using?
??? How's the life, and burn rate?

 

[rmihalek]

lookin' to buy

I don't own a grinder yet but I've pretty much had enough of the hit-or-miss with the file guides. I can get a good chain about 80% of the time with the Oregon file guide, but I was just bucking a big, dead red oak on Easter Sunday and one of the saws was givin' me a banana cut, and that was with my best effort on the file guide. I think it's time for something better, but before I spend the money on a grinder, I want to have the option of a square grind. All I do is cut wood for home heating, so dropping big bucks on a Silvey isn't really an option.

 

[rmihalek]

change title

By the way, I tried to change the title of this thread to 511A, but can't figure out how to do it. I think I'd get more replies. People are probably wondering what the he11 a 551A is!

What about these Maxx (?) grinders that arboristsite sponsor Jeff S. is selling?

 

[glens]

I intently watched Jeff demo one at Dozerdan's and if I were to buy a grinder it's the one I'd get, no contest.

Glen

 

[Dennis Cahoon]

If your going to true your stone free hand, use a diamond dresser, not a carborundum stone. If Gypo lived in the U.S. he'd be an Okie! Dennis

 

[Gypo Logger]

Hi Dennis, I was thinking that too. LOL
I have never used a diamond dresser, but will try. What kind are the best?
Hi Glen, I never tilt the vise, but it may be an advantage. The modified stone seems to run cooler and I am using the pink 3/8" Oregon stone, but the 404 stone may be better since a steeper angle can be put in it as long as it isn't so thick that it contacts the raker on a new chain.
John

 

[Saw Man]

Try tilting the vise. You get about a 10* angle.
If not done on chisel, it's not as fast as it can be.
Even Semi chisel cuts even faster with a tilt than w/o.

Don't personally care for the Oregon wheels.
Like Pferd much, much better.
Try the wheel from Jeff Sikima. Has less tendenancy to blue burn.

The thick wheel was orginally intended for Depth Guages, not .404,....but is sometimes used for 3/8".
Wheel radius can be dressed on the chain chassis side so it doesn't grind into the drive link top.
But think you'll find the 3/8' gives a more correct angle.

Couple Tips:
1. Try tilting the cutter. Working corner downward). You'll see a difference.

2. Don't use the screw on the chain bed vise to tighten the clamp!
It's for adjustment of the wheel arc ONLY.

3. Use a protractor to check, and set the Top Plate Cutting angles.
Most of the machines aren't as accurate as they could be.
Ie; to get a true 60* Top Plate Angle, may had to be set around the 55* mark. This wass a major problem with the Oregon, and some EFCO-Jolly models like this.