Colonel428
ArboristSite Operative
Not an answer for the question he just asked.
Standards for pipe thread sealant for hydraulic wood splitter
- Thread starter efiles123
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Colonel428
ArboristSite Operative
You'll have some fluid that is in the cylinder and line that'll come out. Remember to have the splitting ram retracted into the cylinder (less fluid will be in it) when you disconnect the valve. Something to catch the fluid with is a good idea. Check your fluid level when you're done and if you need to add more it's best to add the same type of fluid that's already in it. At least that's what I've been told by people who have a lot of experience with hydraulics.
The question he asked was......
He was asking about sealant for a pipe fitting and teflon tape it what has been used for decades. It has been very successful for millions. Your mileage may vary
Colonel428
ArboristSite Operative
That was his original question yes. But in the thread he actually bought something to use to fix the leak (solution to original question). He then proceeded to ask a couple of other questions about actually doing the repair. Did you actually bother to read the posts in the thread or just see the original question and respond?
Look if you want to argue please find a fence post.
Colonel428
ArboristSite Operative
Nope, no desire to argue. Just didn't appreciate your response "just use Teflon tape that's used a million times every day" to the person who posted the thread. It was a smarta** comment. Have a great night.
Your opinion is duly noted and filed in the correct receptacle. The rest of the country will go on just like always using teflon tape with great success.
You have a Blessed Sunday
GenXer
Addicted to ArboristSite
With your machine off, push on the leavers, this will relieve the pressure. Hydraulic fittings shouldn't need Teflon, but pipe threads do. If it's a NPT it will be a tapered thread.
Brass going into iron, lot of thread showing, Another turn in will probably help do the job.
Somehow you seem to stir up the most passionate of the interneters with your comments lol.
I use teflon tape almost exclusively for everything from plumbing in the house to 4,000psi lines on my mini-excavator and everything in between. I have the fancy loctite and blue monster along with the industrial grades of tape and almost always grab a roll of white teflon that I buy in 100 packs on spamazon. Rarely have leaks when things are clean and assembled properly.
I’d smear that stuff you posted in the OP on and tighten that fitting in there and not look back.
GenXer
Addicted to ArboristSite
It's a steel fitting that looks like brass.
Do a thorough job cleaning both male and female threads, carefully inspect, make certain there's not a crack in the body casting. dress any burrs if needed. add a turn if you can.
It's kinda, gotta be a boo boo for the suction side to leak. With the location probably just not tight enough from the factory?
If you have a pipe tap in that size run it in and out a time or two. ditto a die on the elbow threads. Leaks are sneaky COULD be something else nearby, hose end?
benz66
Used to sell firewood for $5 a face cord, deliverd
Photos can be deceiving, but it looks like the top of the elbow is out of line with the line of the casting. This indicates the elbow is cross threaded. That is probably your problem, however catfish's lactate may seal it as is anyway. Being a low pressure fitting, it should not be hard to seal. Most iron pipe fittings now are cheepchineecrap, and the threads are often miscut.
That's what I always did, when an Aerial lift tech came out here to fix a leak that was warrantied on my new bucket truck on the low pressure side of the reservoir he didn't, and I asked him about this, and he said you are not supposed to, well it leaked!!!!!!!!!!!!!! It's hard to find capable people.
efiles123
ArboristSite Lurker
Got the job done earlier today! All went good! Anyone know how long I should wait before running the splitter? The package says 72 hours to fully cure. Maybe I’ll wait to be safe.
teflo n tape is not a good idea on hydros.
on your leek are u sure the thread types are the same. i have seen o-ring on valves with nftp or npt. look at the valve and see if theres a seet cut round where that fitting is leaking.
on your leek are u sure the thread types are the same. i have seen o-ring on valves with nftp or npt. look at the valve and see if theres a seet cut round where that fitting is leaking.
The job isn't done til it's run for a couple hours without leaking..........
It's the way of the world, a more accurate description; "I have completed the first attempt to fix the problem."
That's correct, when the oil gets hot it will be more prone to leaking.The job isn't done til it's run for a couple hours without leaking..........
Colonel428
ArboristSite Operative
Lol. A hydraulics guy told me once there are two types of hydraulic systems. The ones that leak and the ones that don't leak yet...
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